First Final Design for GR av+1's (1 Viewer)

[Geno]

ok, a while back i said id post these for comments on design and how it would affect the sound. Ive finaly gotten to a point where I am pleased with the look/asthetics.

Please comment and ask any ?'s you want.

WITHOUT GRILL:
http://members.cox.net/spunindasun/small1.jpg
WITH GRILL:
http://members.cox.net/spunindasun/small2.jpg


Then I got bored so i made new textures and took off the front plate:

http://members.cox.net/spunindasun/small6.jpg


remember this is not a final final design just a very good starting point.

ps: drivers wont really look like those in the pics i just thought id make them look cooler

 

[Cam S]

holy shit, those are nice! They remind me of Avalon speakers, and man, they are sexy. If you could make them, GO FOR IT! These could be sold for BIG bucks. How easy would it be to create those angles though?

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

NICE, Geno, very nice! Go for it and keep us posted, esp about cutting the angles.
My 2 Hz worth: regarding the first design, I would not inset the baffle, but rather make the baffle flush all around. Maybe a small radius roundover also. Maybe.

 

[Dustin B]

I'd also email Danny and ask about the affects your changes to the baffle shape will have on the sound.

 

[Owen Bartley]

Geno, very nice renderings. It took me a minute for the background to register and to realize you hadn't actually built these already!

 

[ThomasW]

If you're going to go to all the time and trouble of using the faceted cab designs originated by Avalon Acoustics, you should probably have some understanding as to WHY faceted designs are used. (Note that the facets are there for more than cosmetic reasons)

BTW, it's best to have the tweeter in the narrowest section of the baffle, not in the widest.

Given the extreme amount of labor and time needed to create this type of cabinet, you might consider using a higher grade of components than those provided in the kit.

And as stated in a previous post, it may be necessary to custom design a totally new XO to obtain optimal performance.

 

[Danny Richie]

Well I guess there can be a first time for everything.

I have to actually agree with comments made by Thomas.

Faceting is for a reason. It is used to minimize the surface area around drivers which of coarse minimizes surface reflection problems.

This can be particularly beneficial around the tweeter. Like Thomas said it is best that it be the narrowest there not the widest.

The edge that protrudes out that allows the grills to inset into it will also cause reflection problems that will alter the response.

As for higher grade components though, if you opt for the Sonicap upgrade then there are no higher grade components available, anywhere.

The new Sonicaps are the best caps I have ever used, and I think that next to no cap at all there is nothing better. Our kits also come with nothing but Alpha Core foil inductors, and the A/V-1+ kit uses no resistors in the network at all.

I also have to agree that an enclosure design like this one would likely need some adjusting to the network to compensate for these changes.

 

[Shawn Solar]

Danny,
since I got you here. If I were to put some side panels on the sides of each Av1+ but keep the panel 3/4" from the front baffle would it affect response? the panels are only asthetic. and would be 1/2" thick corean. The front baffles are to be painted silver and have a 1/2" roundover on all front baffle edges. Where the back of the front baffle meets the cabinet, is where the side panel would start.

 

[Chris Tsutsui]

I think it's great how speaker designers help people with their designs but was wondering how much of a role the factors you talk about actually play in a speaker.

Could you estimate how much that change in baffle size will actually affect the sound? I know it probably has to be calculated or measured, but would the worse case scenario be only a slight change in the response?

If the tweeter performs slightly "different" with a large baffle, then changing to a TMM design would change the tweeter positioning. Would that be a solution or would that create more significant problems?

 

[Danny Richie]

If the tweeter performs slightly "different" with a large baffle, then changing to a TMM design would change the tweeter positioning. Would that be a solution or would that create more significant problems?

Changing the design to a TMM changes the distance between acoustic centers and will require a lower crossover point.

 

[Shawn Solar]

Thanks Danny,

That answers my question perfectly I'll probably be ordering surounds in the next little while to go with the three av1+'s upfront

 

[Geno]

thanks for the replies. the main driving factor in this design is asthetics. any way you look at these, they look much smaller than what they really are, my main goal was to find some median between large floorstanders and lightweight bookshelves. as far as the reflecting soundwaves internally i didnt consider that but nowadays there is so much crossbracing in good speakers that standing waves are really not that much of a factor. another reason for the design is that we have maple veneer mdf that was cut in the wrong direction [the grain runs the short length] so therefore I thought I could piece them together and make it come out alright [and not pay much for the wood.
I never thought about the width of the baffle but if you have any suggestions on what other speaker kits might be better in this box design please let me know. Or if I could tweak these a bit more to accomodate the av+1's also let me know. i can post 2d plans from ACAD with dimmensions if anyone wants to see them.

again thanks for the replies, keep em coming

geno

 

[Danny Richie]

Hey Geno,

Here is some food for thought.

Our new M-130/16's will arrive in just a few weeks. They are 16 ohm versions of our M-130 woofers.

These will be used in the new A/V-3. It is basically a floor standing version of the A/V-1+ model with the woofers loaded in a transmission line that allows them to reach a -3db down point of 40Hz and still have good tight bass.

The larger 1.4 cubic foot enclosure might give you a little more to work with esthetically too. The new woofers only need 1.15 cubic feet in a typical ported enclosure and will reach a -3db of 47Hz.

You wouldn't need stands, and the 8 ohm speakers is easier to drive.

The price is nearly the same too.

 

[JoelTW]

Amazing design -- and your modelling skills as well...