Finally, some pics of my own! (1 Viewer)

[Dan Hine]

Ok, I finally built something worth posting! Too bad it isn't for me.

Dayton DVC 12" Sub

The cabinet is built using 3/4" birch plywood and 3/4" hardwood square stock from Lowes. The SS was glued to the edges of the ply and then cut mostly even and sanded the rest of the way. Then I just glued up the cabinet using simple butt joints. There are two braces that connect the front, back and sides together. It's not the MOST sturdy cabinet I've made but I played my bass mechanic DVD today twice today loud enough to drive me to the other room and its still fully intact (and even though loud as hell, it sounded great throughout).

The sub uses a Dayton DVC 12" driver and is in a 4cubic foot box tuned to around 20-21hz. I used a 4" flared port from Madisound. Even at full output there are no noise issues from the port and that's with me sitting right next to the port. More than enough for this driver. Powering it is an amp I stole from an old Radioshack sub. I know I know...but budget was a big concern and to be honest I like the sound better than my current set up of Dual SVS drivers (basically 25-31's) running of an Adcom amp. It's very clean, very articulate and I'm sure the owner will love it (which is what matters, right?).

Upon Brian Bunge's advice I used Behlen Solar-Lux dye (medium red mahogany to be exact) and Minwax wipe on poly. I don't remember how many coats of the dye I used but I have half a bottle left...EASILY worth the $9.95 I spent on it. About 8-9 coats of poly later, I get a very nice shine and good protective finish. The bass mechanic cd/dvd has sweeps and tones so I guess I could take some measurements if I get the chance...but I'll be delivering it tomorrow so I can't promise anything. But for these ears which have heard plenty of subs, it sounds wonderful.

That should pretty much cover it. This has been a popular driver on this board for awhile, but if anyone has any specific questions feel free to ask. Thanks to everyone for their inspiration to start this hobby of DIY subs and speakers. Expect to see a 5.1 system using Stryke kits and a dual sealed sub (two drivers, one cabinet) within the next month.

- Dan Hine

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

Very nice! I am glad you completed my pre-paid sub so soon. I'll be waiting for it in the mail.

 

[Jake K]

It looks great, and if it really is as good as you say then I should be quite pleased with my AV15 sub which should be done in a couple weeks, if the driver ships when it should.

Could you go into detail about the entire finishing process, I would like to get my future AV15 enclosure to look like that.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Jake,

Trust me when I say you WILL be seriously impressed with
your AV15... My AV12 is a beast and it's in a small sealed
enclosure. Had I went with a Vented or PR'd large enclosure
I could probably knock spakel off the walls

 

[Dan Hine]

Anthony,

Ha...ha...hahaha...


Jake,

Could you go into detail about the entire finishing process, I would like to get my future AV15 enclosure to look like that.

Certainly...its so simple I couldn't believe it. After I had it all glued up I used a flush trim router bit to make sure all the joints were flush. Then, with an orbital sander I used 180 grit followed by 220grit. Be careful and keep the sander moving...you dont want to wear through the top layer of the plywood (or veneer if you go that route). I got my router back out and rounded over all the edges. Then I used about a 100grit sanding sponge to even out the rounded corners (since you're hitting the corners from two angles). After that I wiped it down with a tack cloth and used a 320 grit sanding sponge all over until it was nice and smooth. Wipe with tack cloth again.

Grab your finishing cloth of choice, I use old tshirts myself. You can either pour the dye from the bottle straight onto the cloth or put it in a plastic bowl and dip. Apply the dye liberally on the wood going with the grain. Don't be crazy go nuts, but don't we worried about using too much...just keep applying and stop when you feel it has the color you want.

Next up is the wipe on poly (Minwax High Gloss to be exact). It doesn't get any easier than wipe on if you ask me (well, maybe spray with a paint sprayer and compressor...but I don't have a compressor to find out). Anyway, just pour a good amount on your cloth and wipe on, again with the grain. If you use light coats you can do all the sides and top at one time. Some people say to sand in between coats. I found this to be more hassle than it was worth. Just put on thin coats over and over again...and again. Expect to apply anywhere from 8-12 coats depending on how thick your coats are and how glossy/deep you want the finish.

And that's it! I look forward to seeing your AV sub when it's all done.

- Dan

 

[Allen Ross]

oh the fun i will have with two cabs 22"X15"10"

 

[Patrick Sun]

The only thing that bugged me about the wipe-on poly is that I'd get some cloth strands from using the old t-shirts when I applied the stuff to the veneer (and the strands would catch on the minute wood splinters/grain). But it is pretty easy, but just takes patience between coats.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Pat,

You could always try some of the lint free auto polishing
cloths.. Or perhaps a sponge?


I used paper towels for the small jobs I have used it on
so far and it goes on very nice.