Dual Dayton DVC project complete (with pics)


Second Unit
Feb 12, 2002
Hey guys. Finally finished up my newest sub project.
Here's a "quick" run-down of the specs.

*Dual Dayton DVC 12in drivers
*Bass Reflex (ported) with (3) 3" Precision Products flared ports w/ plugs
*5cf net tuned to 25, 20, and 15hz depending on plug configuration
*Bracing done with everything around the shop including 2x4's, 1" pine, 1.5" dowels, mdf, etc.
*Passive design being driving with Yamaha M85 (early 80's) @ 330w per driver
*All construction with 3/4" mdf
*1.5" baffle with round over on the inside
*1/4" inset tile on top
*Rounding over down on the top
*Flushed out port cutout, drivers and binding post
*Used as an end table
*Kilz primer, black base coat, Duplicolor Bedliner for finish (spray)
*lined with acoustic foam and stuffed with ~ 2.5 lbs of polyfil

Here's a quick link to building process (4 pages of photos for those bored).

Here's a few random pics of the project for a quick look.

Ready for primer
Drivers going in
WAF side showing (finished)
Ports facing out with 25hz tuning
Drivers facing out
Drivers out

Tile top

Anyone willing to post a pic on the actual post for me so others can see without clicking?



Second Unit
Feb 12, 2002
Drivers $90 ea on ebay
ports $15ea
wood ~20
glue, screws etc- $5
paint $25
Tile -$1.25
Binding post- 6


I think that's about right?
Anything else I'm forgetting?


Stunt Coordinator
May 6, 2004

I've been looking for a way to finish the top of my box. how big is that piece of tile? did you have to trim it out or did you build the top of the box to fit the tile?

hmm you've given me some ideas now

Frank Carter

Mar 12, 2002
What do you think of the sound? I'm 95% done with a vented DVC12 sub, I just need to round over the corners, apply the Parts Express cherry vinyl veneer, and screw everything in.


Second Unit
Feb 12, 2002
minhG-- It's 19 and 11/16ths square, 1/4" thick.
I built the box around the tile. Then I flushed everything up with a flush trim router bit. This way I didn't have to modify the tile. I've been looking for something different myself.

GrahamT-- I used the typical jasper jig and 1/4" straight bit for the cutouts then rabbited the holes with a 9piece universal router bit. It has the bearings that you change out in 1/16ths increments up to 1/2" in diameter. Very handy bit for rabbiting. The drivers were simply flush mounted by using two layers of 3/4" mdf. The driver is exactly 3/4" thick on that top outer surround and cork area. The bottom sheet is cut to the regular cutout and the outer mdf layer is 1/16ths larger than the actual basket diameter.

Frank Carter-- I haven't had enough time to give a detailed review. I can say that I really like the sound of this design. It seems to have more output than I will ever need. The headroom I have is overwhelming. I can really crank on the sub and the drivers don't appear to move. I don't care much for the 25hz tuning. I find the 20hz option is perfect for HT and music. I was a little apprehensive about building a ported sub; my previous sub is/was a .7Q sealed Tempest. I'm not disappointed at all running the drivers ported. I'm really impressed with the subs at a very low listening level. They are very detailed and dynamic at low levels and seem to play exactly at the same detailed output level with the music at ANY listening level. Tough to explain..

Owen Bartley

Second Unit
Nov 11, 2002
That looks great, I love the tile top. I was considering doing one like that too, but then my Tempest got too big. Great job though, it looks like a nice "furniture-sub".

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