John A. Casler
Second Unit
- Joined
- Apr 29, 1999
- Messages
- 475
I think Brian has stated that those are "estimated" values and not actual test results as his facility is too small for full volume testing.
John
John
How des the output of a 16-46 CS+ compare to the VMPS larger at 20hz?It would be interesting to see. VMPS does state that NASA's Langley Research Center purchased the Larger Sub so they could do very high output, very low frequency testing.
On a mildly related issue, pronkie-uk mentions canceling out earthquakes. While not that ambitious, yesterday I read an article outlining how the Servodrive Bass-Tech 7 (the original DC-servomotor driven cone speaker) and the Unity TD-1 loudspeakers will be used for real world noise cancellation... to control the sound of commercial jets at an airport runway! Mind you to cancel sound, you need to generate nearly equivalent levels, and the acoustic consultants involved found the BassTech 7 and the TD-1 the ONLY products to actually meet the specs they had determined neccessary to accomplish the task! And to think I'm putting a relative of these horns in my home system .
I understand your premise regarding passive and self-powered subs (it's one reason we offer both) but the juxtaposition and insinuation that SVS be included with "most" inferior products you might be familiar could be taken as slanderous.
I hope you don't feel I'm being unfair, I only desire to ensure folks here know we have the utmost confidence in the durability, and excellent sonic qualities of our electronics. Any other characterization would simply be uninformed, at best.While I find the "tone" of your response is seemingly out of character, I did not name any brand or manufacturer since my comment was a generalization and very true.
It would seem that if there is any misconception regarding the SVS product you have "cleared it up".
Regards,
John
I've owned the Original Larger Sub for over 7+ years and never had a problem with it. I'm powering it with a QSC MX700 Amp bridged into 4 ohms (700+ watts). I purchased the sub as a kit. All this means is screwing in the drivers as well as wiring them. The cabinet was built and finished. I have never had the sub bottom-out.Hi Arnold, does this mean that you had to assemble the crossover(if there is one)and if so, any soldering involved or is it just a case of connecting the cables to the required terminals. I would imagine the cabinets would come with predrilled holes as well right?