Do most receivers cut out sub in "LARGE" mode? (1 Viewer)

[Doug_B]

WRT the sub vs no sub discussion for 2 ch listening, I guess I hedged my bets by selecting mains that should go down low enough by themselves to handle my music preferences (classic rock and offshoots), as well as getting a controller that 1) allows for sub output with mains set to large and 2) a variable crossover setting with mains set to small. Stuff is on order, so I won't know what will work best in my room yet and to what extent it will be song-dependent, but I will have enough degrees of freedom to play quite a bit. Amazing what one can do with enough $.

Doug

 

[Chris PC]

I can both set my SUB=YES and then either set my FRONT=LARGE or I can run FRONT=SMALL. In both cases, the subwoofer is still getting bass from the receiver and it's still operating. The only way to cut out the bass in the subwoofer is to use "SOURCE DIRECT".

Another way of connecting your subwoofer, is to run the Front Right and Left pre-outs to your subwoofer and use the subwoofers crossover. Of course that leaves the fronts going full range. If you choose SMALL for the fronts, then the pre-outs going to subwoofer send nothing and so you loose the subwoofer.

 

[Martice]

Hi Jack. Interesting response. I agree with you on a few of your points but I'm a little fuzzy on a few points.

In regards to my statement:

"I agree with you that it's all a matter of taste but I will add that IMO, anyone that is "critical" about listening to 'WELL' (traditional or modern non digital Jazz and classical)recorded music can't possibly be serious if they have a sub in the first place or if they do, they have an inferior HT or audio/HT hybrid sub."

I must say that when it comes to multi-dimensional music like classical and jazz a listener can be drawn a certain piece for many reasons. Yes there is mounds of information that runs deep in the 20HZ range and sometimes below. However, IMO if it comes to mucking up all of the information above 20HZ to experience the bottom information than I say that I will enjoy what's above 20HZ and leave the sub sonic frequecies alone. Also if you noticed, I gave my room size which isn't big at all which makes it easy for my semi-full range mains to fil up my room with good and tight bass. Are there subs that do music well? Of course there are but in my room and rooms similar in size that have no need to do reference level music, why bother with a sub if your mains can handle the most critical ocataves(IMO 40HZ and above) when listening to classical or traditional jazz.

As far as the million dollar question, you still didn't answer that question. I said if someone asked you in general which type of sub enclosure would best serve musical applications out of the 2 provided which would you pick?

In response you gave what your all time favorite enclosure was and another one of the popular brands from HSU. It's a general and broad based question just like one of the many questions on this forum like "what's the best receiver or speaker or cable?

So in general, of the 2 which would you pick for musical applications?

 

[Jack Gilvey]

As far as the million dollar question, you still didn't answer that question

Which part of "ultimate sub" or "infinite baffle" was unclear? I mentioned the Hsu lest you attempt to take my preference as support of your generalized condemnation of ported subs, which I disagree with, obviously.
(maybe you should start a "sealed vs. ported" thread in the DIY section, if you really want the most informed answers...it's been a few weeks since the last one. )

 

[Lewis Besze]

Martice,
Thanks for the reply,looks like we agree on more,then dissagree.
However I agree with Jack on the sub design issue,namely that ported subs are indeed are good for music,provided they designed well.
I know that the "audiophile" community prefers the sealed design for music and even for HT.
The second order sealed box will let the driver roll off more gradually,and phase response,is more even as well.
That is all things being equal,but why should they?
Jack will comment on this no doubt as he's a sub builder,and I' only a "wannabe" ,but I do understand many of the concepts.
BTW your Bostons are ported too,as the mass resides on the passive cone instead of the mass of column of air in the vents.
There is really no answer to your 1 million dollar question,as it would only reflects preferences then "absolute truth".
Both designs have pros and cons.
So far I've been very impressed with examples of both designs,mostly from the DIY community.
Hey my car sub is sealed does that count?

 

[Martice]

Hi Jack.

My mistake Jack on missing the design choice you made. The sealed IB design is my favorite as well. As soon as I get my house I plan to build one as my first DIY sub project.

"I've heard/had subs can do it all well, so there's no need to "muck up" one region to reproduce the full depth of the recording. My experience is different from yours, so be it."

So be it.

Hi Lewis. Very well said and I agree with this statement as well.

"There is really no answer to your 1 million dollar question,as it would only reflects preferences then "absolute truth".

Which is what all of the information passed between us has been, just a matter of preferences as you put it and experiences as Jack put it.

Thanks for the repsonses and I apologize to the original poster for taking the forum off the original topic.

Until next time....

 

[Jack Gilvey]

The sealed IB design is my favorite as well. As soon as I get my house I plan to build one as my first DIY sub project.

Excellent. You'll then see what I mean by a sub that can do it all.

 

[Bob Bartlett]

I have the HK 210 and I can select large with sub on, so what freq range is the sub getting? It doesn't say in the manual. The reason I'm asking is with an analog input and surround off(stereo mode) it won't let you pick small setting. Unfortunately I have Energy take 2's which only go to 90hz and I wanted to know if the sub will cover the rest of the bass range.