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DIY Tool List / or What do I need? (1 Viewer)

Kerry Hackney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 18, 2000
Messages
206
Another post got me to thinking that a lot of would be DIYers may have no idea the minimum list of tools that they either need to own or have access to. I thought I would start a list with some estimated costs and see if we can come up with a usable index.

If we assume that this is for a onetime sub builder or someone who wants to build 4 of 5 speakers can we agree that you won't have to buy DeWalt or high end tools? Let's start with minimums. That way, a builder can always decide to spend more for tools.

Skil Saw $45

40 tooth carbide blade $15

Clamp on edge guide $45 or home made for $10

Router... may be optional if you are painting with textured paints and you don't want to recess the drivers....ie a sub.

jig saw... if you don't use a router

clamps ... bar clamps run 10 to 20 each depending on length I would guess a minimum of 4

screw drivers

pliers

wire cutters / strippers

????
 

Patrick Sun

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Jun 30, 1999
Messages
39,660
Power drill and bits

Power screwdriver

Power sander (orbital, belt - your choice)

Hammer (you never know!)

(I highly recommend the plunge router, and a carbide tipped spiral upcut bit if you plan on using MDF).
 

Kerry Hackney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 18, 2000
Messages
206
I'll second the drill with bits... 30 to $40 if you go cheap...
Power screwdriver ??? ... optional / you can also use the drill if you are careful or the old fasioned kind
Power sander??? ... optional but they make life easier.
Hammer .... OK $8
Come on Pat, a little elbow grease won't hurt. :D
 

Kerry Hackney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 18, 2000
Messages
206
You're killing me... ROTFL :D
Don't talk to me about old... I've got socks older than you. Besides, today is my birthday.
 

jeff lam

Screenwriter
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Location
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Jeff Lam
Guys,

Speaking of edge guides for a circular saw(I don't have a table saw), where can I get a cheap one, or how can I build on that is accurate. I used some MDF pannels on my previous project and found that they weren't exactly straight. Any suggestions how to make a perfectly straight one?
 

Kerry Hackney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 18, 2000
Messages
206
I used some MDF pannels on my previous project and found that they weren't exactly straight. Any suggestions how to make a perfectly straight one?
The best way is to buy a sheet of 1/2" plywood or mdf. The factory edges should be dead straight. Once you have one good edge you can use it to make more. Some of the easiest DIY edge guides that I have seen are made this way. Cut off about 4" of the edge, keeping track of which is the factory side. Then cut another piece that is 12" wide. Screw and glue the factory edge on top of the wider base so that when you set the saw against the factory edge the blade will be on top of the base. Now, lower the blade and cut off the base using the screwed down guide. Now when you want to make a cut in finished stock, line up the base of the guide with the cut line and lower the blade to reach all the way through. The blade will follow exactly along the edge of the base and cut the line you have set. Remember to turn the finished side down when using a hand saw as the blade cuts on the up stroke from the bottom.
If the piece of MDF was too narrow it probably deflected depending on how far you were spanning. Factory edges of 4 or 8 feet are usually very true.
You can buy them at http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdet...D=330&CATID=69
The big one is $40
Soldering iron.. OK $20 from RatShak ??
 

Patrick Sun

Senior HTF Member
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39,660
Kerry, Happy Birthday! And I feel very very sorry for those socks. Put them out of their misery, dude!
 

Brian Bunge

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Sep 11, 2000
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3,716
Kerry,

I just bought a set of those Tru-grip clamps a few weeks ago at the woodworking show here in Atlanta! I got the 24", 36", and 50" clamp and tool guides and two of the back to back clamps.

The 50" clamp is perfect for cross cutting plywood or MDF in half with a skil saw. After that all your dimensions are small enough to use the 50" clamp for all your cuts.

Brian
 

Kerry Hackney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Oct 18, 2000
Messages
206
Brian- Yep, I have the Tru-grip also. I made a couple of sets of guide blocks to make set up go faster. You have to allow for the shoe of the saw when you use these so make a block of wood the spaces the guide the correct distance from the cut line. I make my marks where I want to cut and then use those little spring clamps to clamp the blocks to the line. Slide the clamp guide up to the block and clamp it in place. That way, I don't have to fool with all of the measuring every time... ;) I made a set for the short side of the saw shoe also.
 

Jeff Rosz

Second Unit
Joined
Sep 24, 2000
Messages
335
router circle jig...$0-50

compass, 1/2" pvc arm type...$5

tape measure...priceless

shop vac...not required but double priceless
 

Brian Bunge

Senior HTF Member
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Sep 11, 2000
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Jeff Lam,

These are the clamps that Kerry provided the link for above. You can use them like bar clamps but also as tool guides for a skil saw, router, etc.

Brian
 

Jack Gilvey

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Mar 13, 1999
Messages
4,948
For sub building, I guess using Sonotube would be easiest for someone who doesn't have many tools. In which case a good plunge router, circle jig, and some good solid-carbide bits would be the main, indispensible (for me) combo. Will cut perfect endcaps, driver holes/recesses, and roundover the cap if needed. Doubles as a laminate trimmer also.
 

David A. Frattaroli

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
May 10, 1999
Messages
173
If I may add my two cents: I think a router is a must. One of the easiest yet most important design considerations when building speakers is to recess the drivers. At least the tweeters. As far as the tweeters are concerned, this may be just as important as getting the box size, crossover frequency or damping right. Yes, it's harder to do because you have to first route out the larger, shallow hole and then route through for the actual driver diameter but it's worth it. Plus, it also makes trimming the veneer at the driver openings a little more time consuming. Add to that, that if your driver flange isn't a perfect circle, now you need to make a template for the odd shape: it could be a more daunting task. But, with a little practice on some scrap wood, you'll get it right.

Also, if you're going to go buy a table saw for this type of work, I'd suggest models that have miter channels on the table surface (for using miter gauges and other jigs) as oppose to a sliding table fixture. Simply because, it's a more popular style table and if you get serious about woodworking, you'll have access to more DIY jigs for the miter channel (T-slot) type tables.

Spend a few extra dollars and get one blade for rip-cuts (along the grain) and one blade for cross-cuts (across the grain). Typically, rip-blades have fewer teeth (24) versus cross-cut blades (80). If you're going to be using MDF only, you might be better off with more (than fewer) teeth. Say at least 60. The cut edge will be smoother. I use Freud blades and they are worth the extra money.

Get a good quality breather with replaceable filters. You'll be making a ton of dust and the stains and finishes etc aren't great to be breathing too much of. The best $35 you'll ever spend. The paper masks with rubber-band straps are useless.

I could go on but I'll stop here.
 

Hank Frankenberg

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Messages
2,573
A table saw with a high-end blade for accurate cuts. Also, the blade and miter slot must be parallel - it's a hassle, but it can be adjusted. Accurate, 90 degree cuts are important so that you have no gaps to fill after assembly. I also highly recommend band clamps (I use the Merle clamps from MLCS)to hold cabinets square during glue drying. And, as I have said many times, I never nail or screw cabinets. Accurate cuts give you parts that fit together correctly and carpenters glue will provide all the joint strength you need; actually, the joints will be stronger than the wood itself. I recommend a good router also. I have a couple of hand-helds and a monster Freud mounted in my router table. If you don't have a table saw and don't have other uses for one that would help you justify the expense, have a friend/relative do the cuts for you, or pay a cabinet shop to do them. If you do have a friend who has one, you might think about buying them a good blade in exchange for access to their saw (learn how to use it safely, BTW).

The Jasper circle jigs are worth every penny they cost.
 

david spin

Auditioning
Joined
Feb 5, 2002
Messages
7
If we assume that this is for a onetime sub builder or someone who wants to build 4 of 5 speakers ...
This sounds like me! Although I started out, like this thread, searching for equipment to buy, I ended up going a different route...
I am taking a course on fundamentals of woodworking at the local woodcraft shop (www.woodcraft.com) so I don't cut my hands off. After looking at prices, I came to the conclusion that it would be better if I just joined. In the short term it's cheaper, there is staff there to ensure that you use tools safely, and did I say it's cheaper??
My last class is tonight and I feel that I have enough basic knowledge to start.
My .02
Dave
 

Robert_Gaither

Screenwriter
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
1,370
Dremel, fiberglass cutting disc, dremel router table (makes very fine detail cuts), and sand drummer.

graph paper (makes drawing to scale in a garage environment much easier)

pencil

double stick tape (1001 uses)

duct tape

broom wisk or blower (dusts off work for instant appraisal)

for parents: kids (best clean up tool I've seen though must be guided more than most, quite loud, and also quite expensive)
 

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