DIY Subwoofer Basics (1 Viewer)

[Matt Stone]

With all this talk about DIY Subs, I thought I'd just ask for some general info. I would have posted more specific questions in the DIY forum, but I honestly don't know where to start...

First, I don't want to go big...I live in an apartment and can't get too loud, and space is a concern. Currently I have an Energy e:XL S8 behind my left front, because that is the only room I have left. I could probably sqeeze in a few more inches, but no bigger than 16" wide and 20" deep. My first questin is general price of componants...and are there any good faqs out there to building one. I love working with my hands (I build computers for that reason)...and I'd love to kill some time improving the ol' HT.

Anyway...thanx for any info, and Mods...feel free to move this to a different forum if you see fit.

 

[Harry Lincoln]

http://www.adireaudio.com
Go to this website and down load a copy of the LSPCAD speaker design program. It preloaded with the Adire drivers (Shiva 12",Tempest 15",Malestrom 18"). Select new from the file menu and choose what type of sub you want -sealed, ported etc(generally speaking, ported is better for HT). Use the pulldown menus to make changes to the box size, tuning point etc and see what effect it has on the graph labelled 'Free air SPL at 1m'. This graph shows the response curve of the sub.
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First, I don't want to go big...I live in an apartment and can't get too loud, and space is a concern. Currently I have an Energy e:XL S8 behind my left front, because that is the only room I have left. I could probably sqeeze in a few more inches, but no bigger than 16" wide and 20" deep
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How about a 16" sonotube using a 12" driver, if height isn't a problem? I have two of these, about 58 inches tall, tuned to 16.5hz with 6ft^3 cabinet volume, they sound awesome. Put those specs into the LSPCAD program, then try reducing the box size to see what effect it has on the graph, you'll find the smaller the volume the less extension you'll get.
I have some links written down somewhere to some informative sites, I'll see if I can find them.
Harry.

 

[Robert_J]

If height is a problem and you need something then a Parts Express DVC12 in a 1.2ft^3 box is a good choice. Some examples are here.
If can go with a sonotube, another quality driver besides the Shiva and DVC12 is the Link Removed 1201. It is manfactured by the same company (FRC Sounds) that makes the CS sub drivers for SVS. It's even getting improvements like the SVS drivers got back in December.
Go do some reading over at DIY Subwoofers. It should answer some of your design theory questions. Also the guys in the DIY section don't mind answering beginner questions if you are willing to learn.
-Robert

 

[Jeff Rosz]

hello,
maybe jack gilvey's "lil sub" would fit the bill, check it out here.
for a sonotube faq, find any post from patrick sun and click on the sub links in his signature. a picture says a thousand words and a thousand pictures says a whole lot more.

 

[Lee Weiss]

Matt,

I was in your position and asked the same thing the other day. Space was my biggest concern.

As per Jack's suggestions, and some info from the Adire site, I figured I could build a 54L sealed box that would just fit. My needs were the same. About 16" tall, 20" wide and 16" deep. I decided on a Dayton 12" DVC woofer from PE and their 250w plate amp. With all needed parts, it was just over $250.

I am hoping for more bass and better tone.

 

[Patrick Sun]

I'll make it easier for Matt to find my links.

 

[Brian Bunge]

That Pat! What a nice guy!
Brian
P.S. So when you gonna get the HT setup properly so I can come over again for a REAL demo? Have you finally settled on the crossovers for your speakers? The weather's getting nice so it's time to put a damn finish on those MDF cabinets!

 

[Patrick Sun]

Brian, I'm within 1-2 dB of less padding on my tweeters to finishing up the XO.

 

[Brian Bunge]

And finishing the enclosures?

 

[Patrick Sun]

I'm within 1-2 years of finishing the enclosures...

 

[Matt Stone]

Thx for the info guys.

Height isn't much of a concern, but I'd like to keep it under 50" if possible.

Also, here's a question, with the limited space that I have in the little nook area behind my Left Front...how much room shoul I allow the sub to "breath"? I wouldn't have that much room...and I wanted to make sure that if I do build a sub, I'd be able to use it.

Thx.

 

[Lee Weiss]

With that much height available, I would build a sonotube sub. I am limited to about 16" high. It would look and sound very funny being that small.

 

[Brian Bunge]

I'm within 1-2 years of finishing the enclosures...

I can see now I'm going to have to get you a wife so she can nag you to finish those damn things. Wait I have a better idea! I'll get my ol' buddy Ellen to nag you! She's been great at nagging me! She'd love you, Pat! She's always asking for pics!
Brian

 

[Ryan Schnacke]

I'm building a sub based on the 12" Dayton DVC that might work for you. Its 95-100L net internal volume tuned to 19-20Hz by a 4" x 4.5" rectangular port.
I've got the plans on my yahoo pics page. And there's a pic showing how to get all the panels from a single 4x8 sheet of MDF.
http://photos.yahoo.com/ryan_schnacke/

 

[Joe Hsu]

Darn all of you at HTF.....first, you distract me from my programming, and then, you make me want to build my own sub and speakers, despite buying the SA-WM40 only this summer......must.....resist.......

Keep it up everyone, especially these nice "basics" or "newbie" threads. Gives one like me hope that at good HT can indeed be had on a budget.