DIY sub recommendations

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Darrin_R, Dec 20, 2001.

  1. Darrin_R

    Darrin_R Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2001
    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    0
    I am considering a DIY sub and would like some recommendations. I would be grateful for any suggestions because this is my first DIY sub project. Here is my situation.

    Budget is $700. More if need be.

    Size of the sub doesnt matter but not IB.

    Ported? PR? Sealed?

    I have a Onkyo 5200(?) amp just sitting around. It is 150 watts x 2 but it cant be bridged. Could this amp be used or do I need more power.

    I have access to all of the tools that I need.

    I can get true 1" oak for $2 a board foot (not linear). Could I use oak if the pours are properly sealed.

    And best of all the wife says "why ask, your going to do it anyway". She is so smart.
     
  2. Scott Page

    Scott Page Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2001
    Messages:
    196
    Likes Received:
    0
    Darrin,

    If size doesn't matter then I'd suggest a ported sub as you will get the most output and the lowest extension and they are very efficient which you want considering your power availability.

    I suggest a Tempest driver frome Adire Audio. I built a sonotube sub using a Tempest, wired for 4 ohm's, driven by one channel of an Adcom 545 which puts out 150 watts into 4 ohm's. So my situation is simular to yours. Does your amp put out more at 4 ohm's? If so, and it will run fine with that load, then that is the way to go.

    I have a second sonotube sub under construction that is identical to the first. However, after hooking up the first one, I don't think I needed to build the second one as I have gobs of bass. Tight and very extended. My sub peaks at 14 Hz!!!

    Your budget would allow you to go either sonotube or a traditional box. However boxes can be difficult to get really tight unless you have the proper tools and know what you are doing. That is your call. You could build a single sub with one driver, a larger sub with two, or two single-driver subs if the first one doesn't give you enough output.

    I would only use the oak as a veneer if you must. You should use no-void baltic birch (first choice but pricey) or MDF for the main layers of the sub.

    Cheers,

    Scott
     
  3. Eric Kahn

    Eric Kahn Guest

    Scott

    what are the diminsions of your sonotube sub

    14 Hz peak sounds great to me

    my 3 cu ft sealed sub is not reching down there at all

    thanks

    Eric
     
  4. Brian Fellmeth

    Brian Fellmeth Supporting Actor

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2000
    Messages:
    789
    Likes Received:
    0
    Darren,

    The only way you could use that oak is to make an inner box of MDF or plywood then cover that with the Oak for 1 3/4 inch wall thickness. Sonotube is sooooo much easier.

    Sealed vs ported vs PR depends on your application goals. Room size, HT vs music, relative importance of SPL and extension, size limitations (SAF).

    Your amp would drive a sealed or ported Tempest so long as it can handle a 4 ohm load. If you wanted to do a blueprint or s stryke with PR's, you will need considerably more amp.
     
  5. Darrin_R

    Darrin_R Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2001
    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks for the replies.

    I hadnt considered a sonotube. It sounds like everyone likes them. Is there a web site with the dos and donts for building the sonotube.

    Oh yea, Is a DIY sub really that much better.
     
  6. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2000
    Messages:
    3,716
    Likes Received:
    0
    Darrin,

    Well, it really depends on what sub you're comparing the DIY unit to. But in general, YES! Spending $300-$500 (depending on finish) on a DIY sub will easily best many of the $1K+ retail subs out there.

    Brian
     
  7. Scott Page

    Scott Page Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2001
    Messages:
    196
    Likes Received:
    0
    Yes Darren a DIY sub can be much better than commercial as you can ignore the design compromises that are required by marketing a sub in a Best Buy store. My sub is 12 cubic feet. Can you image a B&M stocking that! Larger means more effeciency and potentially more extension.
    Eric - Here it is:
    Adire EBS design.
    340L or 12 cubic feet of vol.
    Tempest on bottom inset flush.
    8 inch sonotube on top for port covered with a flush mounted metal grill from Parts Express. Port is 36" long (actually 35" but tube is inset in inner cap so outer cap adds to length).
    Poly filled.
    24 inch sonotube for body. I'll have to measure at home to let you know the length but you can use the free software on line to get you the correct length for the given volume.
    Tuning design was 15.8 Hz per Adire Tempest application for EBS.
    I used one layer of 0.75" baltic birch on the inside for the T-nuts to bite better (but you could just use MDF), a second 0.75" inner layer and a final 0.75" MDF outer layer (about 2 inches larger in diameter to provide a lip). Same for both bottom and top except just MDF throughout for top. The Tempest "flange" is almost exactly 0.75" high so I just made the outermost layer cutout the size of the flange so the driver is only attached to the inner layers and just drops in and sits flush. I did about the same thing for the port as I used a 12" grill to cover the 8" port. However the grill is less than 0.75" tall so I had to route a "shelf" for it to sit on so that it would be flush with the top.
    It looks really nice. If you beg [​IMG] I could take some digital photos and email them to you.
    I have another thread a month or so ago where I posted some numbers of in room response. You could search for it, but the sub extends really low with a far amount of output even at 10Hz. Try to get THAT with a commercial sub. You can email me if you want more specifics.
     

Share This Page