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Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Raul A, Mar 17, 2003.
Mike, Can you please send me the Visio plans? Thanks!
If you're using mdf I would stay away from mechanical fasteners as much as possible as they will split the mdf especially if you don't pre-drill. If you don't have access to biscuit joiner using dowel pins and glue will also make a strong joint. here is a link to a light box I made: http://home.attbi.com/~astrd4506/ As for the backing I like to use hard-board or Masonite.
Mike, I would also like to see the plans, please Thanks man Bob
AntonioD-- You're absolutely right about MDF, as I mentioned in my post. It's ESPECIALLY difficult with 1/2" MDF. I have piano hinges in my boxes, with one side edge-mounted. I used longer screws than are provided with the hinge and a LOT of predrilling. Additionally, I put a line of Liquid Nails on the edge, before installing the hinge to further help prevent pull-outs. BTW, it looks like you've used an edge-mounted piano hinge on your MDF boxes. Were you just warning others, based on the experiences you also had, or did you find another solution to this problem? Also, I should say-- Very nice boxes, Antonio. In fact, I was originally planning on doing backlit boxes, but I had additional design considerations with trying to hide a window, yet still make it accessible (in addition to wanting to use rope lighting in the theater somewhere). re: backer board-- I considered hardboard, but the thickness that was available at the Lowe's is heavier than luan. My boxes are already very heavy, so I wanted to lighten them up. I hunted around for really thin hardboard, like the kind that is commonly used to back the regular, old poster frames, but couldn't find it. Also, I looked at Masonite, too! As I recall, I decided against it because it was more expensive (OK, I'm cheap). I also noticed you mention using a french cleat for mounting. I did too. To everyone reading this-- use a french cleat!!! It'll save you a LOT of headaches. I looked at your "clipping system":
One more thing for anyone doing backlit boxes-- Hotspots can be a problem, as Antonio mentions on his webpage. I saw some plans several years ago, where the guy used a short string of cheap christmas lights. He drilled randomly spaced holes all around a piece of hardboard, then he mounted the individual lights through the holes. This was hidden behind opaque plexiglass, like Antonio's. Seems like a very cheap solution, and it looked pretty good (at least in photos). I was a little concerned about heat build-up though... don't know how that worked out!
For the piano hinge I used #4 or #6 1/2" screws with epoxy to prevent pull out which has already happen to me once and I did a mortise for the hinge. Hotspoting is truly a pain, you have a trade between hotspoting and the depth of your box and I have yet to see a perfect box with out some kind hotspoting but from my initial testing 4 lamps hotspot less then two. One note is the lamps can't be to close together or two far apart. It took me four tries to come up with that clip in system and all it is is C-channel cut to about the same size as one of those spring clips which is the same type you find in those metal framing kits you can get at hobby lobby or Michael's. MikeWh Thank you for the comments, I like your boxes too. I am working on putting together some cad plans and step by step tutorial, but if viso is easier for people to read (of course I would have to lean how to use it first) I might consider doing it that way.
Kirstyn, If you read this, check your personal messages!!
Just curious, for those that are backlighting, what's the recommended # of bulbs and at what wattage? I can only image that there are configurations that are too bright/dim.
frosted plexiglass would eliminate hotspots as long as there is somewhat even distribution of the light. It's the same premise as a light table, only mounted to the wall. Using the three bulbs and a piece of frosted plexi, you'll get full coverage with the light.
Better late than never... MikeWH: Never did fully thank you. The visio files were a great help, thank you!! Glenise: Still havent found anything on the plaq mounting process, but who knows...
My Dad doesn't have a wood shop. Maybe I can learn if I try. I really want something diy instead of purchasing pre-made frames from www.frameusa.com It will be a while before I have poster frames though but at least I can think about what I want!
For those who have requested my poster box plans, I've included here a few extra pictures of the poster retention/matting system-- Here is a detail of the matte pieces in-place: http://home.earthlink.net/~sushinut/...in%20place.jpg This vertical, left piece fits between a horizontal top one and the horizontal bottom one. Here is a detail with the mattes removed: [sorry... dead link] A detail of the right and left matte pieces (top and bottom are essentially the same): http://home.earthlink.net/~sushinut/matte%20pieces.jpg
Mike, Looking at this picture, http://home.earthlink.net/~sushinut/...20removed.jpg, it looks like your poster is mounted in the back. Is this the case? Does your plexiglass touch your poster?
You are correct. The plexglass doesn't touch the poster. The plexiglass is part of the door that opens. The poster is held between pieces of magnetic tape around the perimeter.
Mike, I still love you man! Keep up the good work. Mike, do you have a bigger picture of this? http://home.earthlink.net/~sushinut/stairs.jpg I would like to print a larger picture using my laser printer so I can put it in a notebook!
 [sorry... removed a bunch of dead links]
Mike Wh, I'm bragging about your lightbox on another forum.