DIY Equipment Racks...?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Mike Grell, Jul 2, 2001.

  1. Mike Grell

    Mike Grell Agent

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 1999
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    0
    This didn't seem appropriate for the DIY/Advanced area, sooo...
    I'm interested in building my own HT equipment rack; there was a posting on here a while back of a 3-posted DIY rack (threaded rods, etc) that looked interesting.
    If anyone has a link (or links!) to any such DIY project oriented web sites, please respond.
    Thanks muchly... (getting prepared for an RPTV - will be losing my current TV unit, and need a slick replacement!)
    Mike
     
  2. Will Ernst

    Will Ernst Agent

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2001
    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    0
    Look in the Archives section, there's several good threads in there. I'm finishing up mine now actually.
    -will
     
  3. Lucas Hale

    Lucas Hale Agent

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 1999
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Mike,
    I just finished the same rack using 3/4" MDF. The completed unit has 4 shelves and does function very well considering the ease of construction. I do recommend, however, finding some way to put "feet" on the bottoms of the threaded rods, as these can exert a large amount of force on a small part of your carpet should you really weigh the rack down with equipment.
     
  4. Dave Koch

    Dave Koch Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    May 13, 1999
    Messages:
    148
    Likes Received:
    0
    Mike:
    I saw that old post (or one like it) and took off on my own and made one. VERY happy with it, and even the wife shows it off ("Dave made this with is own two hands!")
    Anyway, the basics are this. Figure out the footprint and height you need (taking into account air space for your amp, the heght of each shelf, extra space on the back for cables, and at least two etra inches border so you do not drill holes too close to the edge.) I used MDF with Maple veneer, and Urathaned it (that takes an extra week for the 7 coats I used.) I also got some sticks of similar wood, mitered them and applied to the edges so you wouldn't see the MDF (Anybody ever watch Norm on PBS?)
    I used 5/8th inch threaded poles, which hold all the weight well. When drilling out the holes, I started with two shelves clamped together, then I used one drilled mated to one undrilled to line up all the holes. (Also, put tape over the area you drill, seems to help.)
    When I built it, I started with the bottom shelf, leveled that, loaded it (with my Rotel 80 lb amp) then put the next shelf on, leveled it, loaded that, and so on up. I would put a nut, metal washer, rubber washer, self, rubber washer, metal washer and nut on, in that order. Also, it is suggested to use three poles rather than four- easier to level. The original post had two poles on the left, one on the right. I found it more athestically pleasing to do two poles in front, one centered in the rear.
    Other than the week of urathaning, sanding and polishing, the project only takes an hour or two- really simple. And a beauty when it is done! Good luck!
    Dave
     
  5. Mike Grell

    Mike Grell Agent

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 1999
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks everyone for your replies - I found the original (and very helpful) FlexiRack posting in the Archive as suggested (Thanks Will!)
    Dave, Lucas; Thanks for the additional tips - I'll remember those for when I start construction. [​IMG]
    Has anybody ever attached glass doors or some other sort of covering to such a unit? I know, personally, I'd like to keep the equipment open and visible, but have been wondering about dust... doors don't stop it, but leaving them wide open, does that make it worse? Also, have a cat that just loves rubbing itself on everything... 'static' discharge comes to mind... Dead cat comes to mind right after! [​IMG] Any comments? (About the doors, not the dead cat)
    Much appreciated...!
    Mike
     
  6. Dave Koch

    Dave Koch Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    May 13, 1999
    Messages:
    148
    Likes Received:
    0
    If you add glass to the front, does that mean you would also add sides?
    To be honest, I think it is more trouble than it is worth... you would have to find hinges that worked with glass. I know they exist, but I would not know where to buy them. Also, you would probably want a tempered, maybe even tinted glass. Finally, and I think most importantly, if you did NOT add sides to the construct, you would have to attach the hinges to the 1/2, 5/8 or 3/4 inch thich MDF- you would probably not get more than one screw in each shelf. Probably not good.
    I do not know- if you can think out how to do it, more power to you! (Don't forget to post pictures!)
    Good Luck!
    Dave
     
  7. Burke Strickland

    Burke Strickland Second Unit

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 1997
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    0
    Also, glass reflects sound in ways you may not like. :>) (Seriously, having the irregular contours of the components exposed is actually better from a "room treatment" perspective than having solid planes of glass or -- whatever -- for the sound waves to bounce off of.)
    Burke
     
  8. Lucas Hale

    Lucas Hale Agent

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 1999
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    You might want to try hooking up some curtains controlled by motors mounted to the top of the rack. Then, you could just use a Pronto macro and, voila, the curtains rise and there's the equipment. Just a thought... [​IMG]
     
  9. Daniel Mc

    Daniel Mc Agent

    Joined:
    May 5, 2002
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    0
    Mike,

    You said you finally found the original Flexirack link...I've been looking and haven't been able to find it. Could you post its location, please? Thanks.
     
  10. JohnRyan

    JohnRyan Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2001
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    0
    Dave, do you have any pictures of this wonderful rack you made? I would like to see it myself, as I am trying to get ideas for a rack.
     
  11. David A. Frattaroli

    David A. Frattaroli Stunt Coordinator

    Joined:
    May 10, 1999
    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    0
  12. Bill_Weinreich

    Bill_Weinreich Second Unit

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2000
    Messages:
    317
    Likes Received:
    0
  13. Eric_Hanson

    Eric_Hanson Auditioning

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2000
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    A bit off topic, but the flexi-rack design concept is very versatile. In addition to building a small four shelf rack/TV stand (27"), I put together a stand for my 55 gallon freshwater aquarium. It is VERY stable, looks great (to me), and cost three times less than a store bought stand. A 55 gallon tank is 48" wide and filled weighs over 650lbs.

    For those interested, the key to stability is tighten the nuts as much as you can. I also used five 3/4" rods that I cut to 29" high. I used three in the back, two on the front corners. Also, I needed to use a total of three 3/4" MDF boards for the top shelf. (Because of the top-most nut I had to cut holes in the "second" top shelf to lay it over them, then the "third" shelf to go over that.

    So to sum my tank stand up: one bottom shelf, middle shelf (15" high), and the top shelf (three MDF boards on top).

    --

    ehanson
     
  14. Daniel Mc

    Daniel Mc Agent

    Joined:
    May 5, 2002
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks for that link, Bill...I'm looking foward to trying this out soon.

    Another question: Is it possible to drill down perfectly perpendicularly using a hand-drill, or do you need special machinery when drilling the MDF? Thanks.
     
  15. chung_sotheby

    chung_sotheby Supporting Actor

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2002
    Messages:
    857
    Likes Received:
    0
    I have been going over this same question for a while, and there are only two answers that I can come up with. First, for the best results, one must purchase a drill press for perfectly perpendicular cuts. Second, try to build a housing that will guide the hand drill down perfectly perpendcular to the surface. I have not been able to find attachments or anything that can replicate the motion of a drill press with a hand drill. I hope this helped, but I know it probably didnt.
     
  16. Bill_Weinreich

    Bill_Weinreich Second Unit

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2000
    Messages:
    317
    Likes Received:
    0
    Chung,
    Check HERE for a drill press attachment. It may be what your looking for.
    Bill
     

Share This Page