DIY causes sunburns! The SunTwos

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Patrick Sun, Jun 18, 2001.

  1. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Studio Mogul

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    6/17/01
    Obviously, I'm not as burned out on DIY as I thought I was, though I was sunburnt from doing some routing on the front baffle (Photos 5-8) outside on Sunday. Here's an update of the start of my next project, conventional 2-way speakers to be used as rear speakers, which I've dubbed: The SunTwos. I've tried to minimize the number of photos since most of the construction process has been covered on my SunOnes webpage.
    Photo 1 : Here's the cut up MDF, plywood, and bracing. I also had the front baffle rounded over with a 3/4" roundover bit.
    Photo 2 : I mark a border around the 1/4" thick plywood layer, which I will glue to the backside of the front baffle. This is to give the T-nuts (for the drivers) something to sink their teeth into when I pound them into the plywood later. Here is a shot of the glue that I applied to the backside.
    Photo 3 : Got clamps? Just applying some clamping pressure to the plywood being glued to the backside of the front panel.
    Photo 4 : Here I spend some time marking front baffles for the driver holes, and the flushmouting perimeter. Fred tried to give me the "paws-up"sign (I'm sure that's what he's thinking). I re-use the same driver placement as I did with the SunOnes. The tweeter center is located 3" of the top, and 3/4" off the center line. The midwoofer center is located 9.5" from the top, and 1/2" off the center line. The front baffle is 10" wide and 17" tall.
    Photo 5 : Based on lessons learned on my previous attempts at flushmounting drivers, I decided to be a little smarter with the flush mounting of the drivers. So here you not only see the front baffles with the tweeter holes cut out, but you see a test piece I used to vertify the flushmount diameter, and the tweeter hole diameter. And somehow I still made one of the 2 flushmount diameters too wide - will need to slap some woof filler or caulk in the gap. Doh!
    Photo 6 : Since the midwoofers have that funky truncated edges to them, I carefully route in the straight edges for them on the baffles. My router has a straight edge side to its base, so I just used a scrap MDF clamped on top of the baffle to give me a "fence" to guide the straight edge routing.
    Photo 7 : Here's a shot of the router doing its thing. Currently it's doing the flushmounting of the midwoofer hole. That's my trusty Sears Router Guide that I use as a circle jig.
    Photo 8 : After about 3.5 hours under a tree, but still managed to get my arms and feet burnt, I finish the driver hole routing. Here's a shot of the drivers in the holes on one baffle, and a non-occupied baffle. I wish I were faster getting these holes routed, but I tended to over-check the routing measurements so I don't have to re-do the baffles. I'm sure some people can do this in 1/3 of the time I took.
    That's it for now. Here's the list of stuff to be done next:
    1. Pop in the driver screw holes, and install the t-nuts.
    2. Route in a big circle for the MDF brace that will separate the tweeter from the midwoofer (as in the SunOnes)
    3. Glue/clamp together the sides of the boxes.
    4. Glue the front baffles to the box sides.
    5. Install the bracing.
    6. Install the rear panel (dual-input terminal cup and port), countersink the screw hole for the wood screws.
    7. Create the crossover panel
    8. Screw in the drivers and connect them to the crossover, and then to the terminal cup's dual input.
    8. Test and listen.
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  2. Brian Fellmeth

    Brian Fellmeth Supporting Actor

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    Pat,
    I'm having a problem with your next step- getting t-nuts in the baffel so that they line up with the driver holes. No matter how carefully I mark the holes using the driver itself as a template, by the time I drill and put in the t-nuts, they are slightly off and the t-nuts don't perfectly match the holes in the driver flange. Whats your secret here ?
     
  3. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Studio Mogul

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    Don't know how long your screws are, but if you have some longer than normally needed (like 2" long) what you can try is to not worry about making the screw holes exact, but slightly wider than the screw's width to give you a little wiggle room.
    Put the driver in place on the baffle (it helps if you can prop up the front baffle to give you some room underneath for driver's backends to hang), stick the screws through the driver holes. Screw in the t-nuts from the underside of the baffle (not hammered in place yet) until you get the t-nuts lined up with the hole. If you hold the t-nut in place and keep screwing in the screw, you can get the t-nut screwed into place with minimal hammering (either way, with the t-nut in place, that gives you an idea that you'll be able to screw in the screws into the t-nuts).
    Does that make sense?
    On my last project I had one or two t-nuts that didn't line up perfectly, so I wound up making the screw holes a little wider to get a better angle of attack for the screws.
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  4. Jeff Rosz

    Jeff Rosz Second Unit

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    hey patrick
    i can think of 2 new items for your toolbox....
    *sun*block for you
    visine for fred
    burnout, heh, ya right! it didnt take long for you to get back into combat.
     
  5. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Maybe this should be called DIY sun burnout!
    I think that's what I'm really suffering from! The first one to melt wins! [​IMG]
    Brian
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  6. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Studio Mogul

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    I'll see your SPF 15 sunscreen and raise you another SPF 15!
    Actually, it was getting a bit comical because I was following the shade of the tree around, so I had to move my routing setup 3 more times after initial setup, and I still got my arms sunburnt. But it was nice a breezy under the tree, so I wasn't sweating as much (though I have a big ol' towel on my head (as most people have seen me on the webpages). I did manage to drop my power drill and my 1/8" drill bit is now bent, so I'll have to go buy a new one. [​IMG]
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  7. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Studio Mogul

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    Okay, folks, I finally got off my lazy butt, and finished up the SunTwo's this weekend. I'll be putting together a construction webpage soon. Don't expect it to be super-detailed, as I tried to streamline the number of photos (but still could only edit the photo count down to around 70 photos).
    Preliminary listening sessions with the new boys: a little hot on the tweeter end, but I don't see a problem taming the tweeter output by 1-2dBs. There is no midrange glare to speak of, which means the midrange's XO is doing its job commendably. I'll be doing some measurements later in the week, time permitting. Otherwise, they sound pretty good, and will sound better once I get the tweeter level to match the midrange (and still keep some bit of baffle step compensation intact).
    Here's a couple of shot of the new babies:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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  8. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    very nice job
     
  9. Julian Data

    Julian Data Second Unit

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    As usual.. great job! [​IMG]
    Hurry up and put the finish on them.
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