Dayton DVC 12 inch vs. Shiva Mark III

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Shawn.G, Dec 2, 2002.

  1. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    Which driver would be better for a sealed enclosure with a Q. around 6? The Shiva recommends 88.5L and the DVC is recommended at 2.25ft^3. I don't have unibox or excel, so I need some help.
     
  2. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Shawn,

    It's really going to just boil down to this: if you want a larger box and to spend more money buy the Shiva. If you want a smaller box and spend less money buy the DVC 12.

    I believe the Shiva has a slight advantage in Xmax (less than 1mm) and a little better thermal power handling but for all intents and purposes they're basically identical.

    You're really over-thinking this. Just choose a driver and buy it. And my 2.25ft^3 recommendation was before subtracting out the volume taken up by bracing.
     
  3. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    I am going with the DVC, which you recommended. I will get it from PE and get the free speaker installation kit. I am going to go with the PE 250w 300-794 plate amp. Is this a good 250w amp? I will use MDF and polyfill, do I need dampening sheets or anything else like that? Enclosure will be 2.25ft^3. What dimensions do you recommend, cube or rectangle? Also, tell me the best way to do bracing and how to measure that not to screw up the cubic feet. I have seen a lot of different brace designs on links. Brian, email me or use HTF, whatever works for you.
     
  4. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Shawn,

    Cabinet shape is irrelevant for a subwoofer so go with whatever you want. A couple of vertical braces (if front firing or horizontal if downfiring) should be more than enough for that size enclosure. And the PE amp will be good quality also.
     
  5. Brett DiMichele

    Brett DiMichele Producer

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    I only have one thing to offer..
    Do not use the black speaker putty P.E gives you when you
    buy a driver.. That crap is so frigen sticky you can't get
    it back off if you want to! Just go to Home Depot and go to
    the isle that has door seals and look for Rope Caulk it
    comes in brown or grey it never dries and stays tacky and
    is very pliable but it's also removeable unlike the P.E
    stuff that needs removed with WD40 and a knife! [​IMG]
     
  6. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    Thanks a lot. I will order the parts and then get the MDF. Keep the help coming though. Also, is the verneer PE sells any good? I want then sub to look good. Any suggestion? The links are good to look at but don't tell you how they finished the sub. I want mine to look like this:
    www.acoustic-visions.com/images/dscf0005.jpg
    What is the black material behind the driver on the front of the sub? I don't want a grill(is it neccesary?) and this is what I want mine to look like with the finished verneer on all the other sides. Or is there another way you prefer?
     
  7. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    Thanks a lot. I will order the parts and then get the MDF. Keep the help coming though. Also, is the verneer PE sells any good? I want then sub to look good. Any suggestion? The links are good to look at but don't tell you how they finished the sub. I want mine to look like this:
    www.acoustic-visions.com/images/dscf0005.jpg
    What is the black material behind the driver on the front of the sub? I don't want a grill(is it neccesary?) and this is what I want mine to look like with the finished verneer on all the other sides. Or is there another way you prefer? One more thing, do you need feet?
     
  8. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    Stoopid internet acting up. Sorry about the same two posts.
     
  9. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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    Robert
     
  10. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    I can get 3/8 MDF free. Can I screw it together to make 3/4 or is that not a good idea? It is going to be around 1.5ft^3 and uses the DVC 12 inch driver. Thanks.
     
  11. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    Also, Robert, do you have any links to your project or other projects with sealed enclosures with the 12 inch DVC with pics and descriptions?
     
  12. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Shawn combining two sheets of MDF to equal one will be just fine, but I would recommend using wood glue rather than screws. The bond created by most wood glue is stronger than nails and is usually stronger than the wood itself!
    Just spread out glue on the mdf and put a lot of pressure on the two pieces of wood, such as using clamps, weights, sand bags, etc.
    Link to other 12" DVC subs
     
  13. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    So you're saying to just glue the 2 boards together without any screws. Thanks for the links.
     
  14. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Yep, wood glue is amazingly strong. You can use screws if you want to, but it really isn't necessary.
     
  15. Dan Hine

    Dan Hine Screenwriter

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    Yes, glue....no screws. Screws = evil. [​IMG] But like Jeffrey said, make sure to clamp them down nice and tight, or put some heavy weight on them like sandbags.
     
  16. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    I'll use clamps. When I get the MDF and then cut it, how many screws should I use to put it all together? It will be around 18x16x12, so how many screws is the normal for each side? 3,4,...Also for the bracing, I am just going to use one brace fom top to bottom and side to side with a circle in the middle big enough to fit my hand through. Maybe another small brace cutting the large one perpidictularly. I don't need to screw the brace in do I, just wood glue? What wood glue is the best to get, the most used?
     
  17. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Shawn,

    If I cut one large hole in the brace I usually go with a hole that allows for 2" or so between the edge of the hole and the outside edge of the brace.
     
  18. Jeffrey Noel

    Jeffrey Noel Screenwriter

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    Shawn, when I made my 2.1 computer system, I didn't use one single screw, except for when I attached the speakers! All glue.
    The glue I've used and know works wonders is Loctite Wood Worx. I messed up and glued a piece on backwards, so I thought I'd just rip it apart and sand down the glue. Yeah, whatever. I ripped the piece of MDF apart. The glued parts never came apart! [​IMG]
     
  19. Shawn.G

    Shawn.G Second Unit

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    I need to get an approximate volume for the enclosure. What should I go with? Brian says 2.25ft^3 without bracing and the PE board says 1.2ft^3. I'm thinking 1.5-1.7ft^3 with the bracing and driver and plate amp. Will the driver and amp take up a certain amount of space to worry about? Any other suggestions?
     
  20. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    As said, regular wood glue is the ticket. For flat panel glue ups, I'd recommend one of those cheap foam roller covers. You only want a thin film of glue or you'll introduce too much moisture in the panel. Weight it down on a FLAT surface is actually better than clamps. More even pressure. We usually do a stack of panels at once. Make sure you leave enough excess to trim.

    I would go ~2-2.25 ft^3. Make sure it's fully stuffed with polyfill or similar.

    Pete
     

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