Dayton 100w Sub? - Location, and Cabling Info Pls (1 Viewer)

[Mark_H]

Upgrading from my old Yamaha (15yrs) two channel to a 5.1 or 6.1 system and need advice please.

Looking for a total system (speakers and receiver) cost of around $750-800 but could go up a bit more if I have too. I have looked at the Onkyo HT-760 HTIB and it was decent except for ugly speakers, but would like to do better.

I'm considering a refurbished receiver to give me more $$'s to spend on speakers and have seen the HK AVR125 reccomended here. Does this unit have enough power? Comments on it?

I have seen the Dayton 100w 10" sub from Parts Express recomended here, can anyone provide links or advice on this sub or others that would fit in my price range?

Normally I see the sub installed in the front however in my room I have a perfect corner for one in the right rear. (same wall my couch is on) Will this location be a problem?

My sub location will dictate about about a 40' run of cable to it. I have seen some reccomend using 75ohm shielded video cable for this purpose. What is the general feeling, is this going to work well for sub cable?

Any reccomendations for good quality/reasonably priced 14-12ga speaker wire would also be appreciated, my rear surround runs will probably be about 30 and 40ft.

Sorry for so many questions, thanks for any/all advice.

 

[Ed O'Neill]

Hi maybe I can help

Question

Any reccomendations for good quality/reasonably priced 14-12ga speaker wire would also be appreciated, my rear surround runs will probably be about 30 and 40ft.

Answer:You already know the answer...www.partsexpress.com they have grat prices on all home theater wires as well as do it your self stuff like powered sub kits.

Hope this helps,
Ed

 

[Anthony*B]

go to Radio Shack, buy a length long enough of regular shielded COAX cable (the kind you run from your satellite to your TV), buy 2 coax to RCA adaptors = simple shielded CHEAP sub cable...worked perfect for me! (anyone is more than welcome to chime in and set me straight if this is not a good idea...as i said, worked great for me - total cost around 10$ if i remember right)

 

[ColinM]

I have seen the Dayton 100w 10" sub from Parts Express recomended here, can anyone provide links or advice on this sub or others that would fit in my price range?

I was going to say Acoustic Research subs from Accessories4less.com but the site is down.

 

[Ian-Fl]

I bought the Dayton sub from Parts Express. It's a tight sub not boomy and like any sub You'll have to play around with it's position to get the maximum from it. I used RG59 cable with rca connectors.Parts Express has that as well.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=2483&DID=7
some people are using RG6 cable,(cable TV wire) with the same type of RCA connector but I don't see any differance in quality of sound.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...umber=091-1060
Most people will use 12 gauge speaker wire that can be found at any renovation outlet. I found a link from another post that tested different wires for speakers.
http://home.earthlink.net/~rogerr7/wire.htm#wiretable
Keep in mind that an 8ohm speaker changes it's resistance as it's being driven, so it's better to have more thickness in a wire than less.
I have the avr125 and it's an excellent receiver. It has a nice warm sound that's good for music.It's a 27lb receiver so it has no lack of power. I paired it with a set of Fluance sx-htb speakers in a 400 square foot room.

 

[Mike Co]

Subs in corners are not a good idea as low frequencies are omnidirectional. Best placement is right in the middle of the room
The problem with a corner is you have3 reflecting surfaces that will re-inforce the output to where "the walls aren't". Putting them on the ground against the middle of a wall is better-only 2 surfaces to reflect energy (floor + wall).
Real world cure: know when to cut down the output on the sub.

 

[larry mac]

I am just setting up a bedroom HT. Initially, I've hooked up the sub with an ordinary RCA gold plated stereo cable (25') using a splitter at the receiver and plugging both ends into the sub.

What will this do to negatively affect the sub operation?

larry mac

 

[Mark_H]

Thanks for the responses.

I just ordered a HK AVR 225 Refurb from Soundcity.com they had it including ship for $240.

In addition to the Dayton 10" 100w sub from parts express which is $124 I have also found a Velodyne VX10 10" with 100watts for $149 w/ship and Atlantic Tech T70PBM 10" 125watt for $179 w/ship both at Soundcity.com

Anyone have experience with either the Velodye or the Atlantic? How would they compare to the Dayton?

Will also be looking for a set of Fronts/Center/Rears. Want something fairly compact and have seen the JBL NSP-1II system with Five Speakers for as little as $200 shipped. Can I get comments from anyone with experience with these?

The NSP-1II's aren't wood but I listened to a pair (no rears or center) at Best Buy and they seemed pretty good for the money. All the speakers I have heard that are smaller than these (micro) seem to lack midrange (guitar, voice etc).

I could probably go up to about $300-350 for my Front/Center/Rear Surrounds if the extra $100-150 would get me better sound.

I have seen Fluance reccomended and they have a nice looking set with Front Towers/Center/Rear Bookshelf's for about $250. Are these good quality? Seems like an awesome price.

Unfortunately for me the wife wants something more in the size range of the JBL NSP-1II set.

I'd appreciate any more comments and suggestions about the sub's above and also the Front/Center/Rears I have mentioned. Feel free to suggest any other Subs and Speakers that seem to fit my requirements.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Robert_J]

Subs in corners are not a good idea as low frequencies are omnidirectional.

Mike, with the smiley in your post I don't know if this was meant to be a joke or not. But according to the SVS site, a corner near the listening position is recommended.

-Robert

 

[Mike Co]

Smiley is because very few people, I would guess, can put a sub in the middle of the room. If the sub is designed to be put in the corner, then it has been designed with 9 db less output, and is using the coupling of walls and floor to boost output. If so, then not putting the sub in the corner will effectively attenuate the sub's output. The problem with designing for room placement means the variables in performance are based on wall thickness, proximity to surface, proximity to potental bass traps, etc.
The other problem using architecture to achieve spec. is what the Q (tuning) of the cabinet is which is what can create the boominess of many sub's.
Just my .02

 

[Mike Co]

Not to mention the room...