Crown K2 running at 2ohms bridged....

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Anthony_Gomez, Jun 24, 2002.

  1. Has anyone Run their crown K1 or K2 at 2ohms bridged?

    The amp is rated at:
    1x 2500watts @ 4 ohms bridged
    2x 1250watts @ 2ohms stereo
    2x 800watts @ 4ohms stereo

    ...but what about 1x 2500watts @ 2ohms bridged (would not want to get more than 2500watts, hence that number).

    Thanks for any advice.
     
  2. Dan Hine

    Dan Hine Screenwriter

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    It's been my experience that if a company doesn't rate its amp at 2ohms bridged than doing so would be a bad idea. Also, running things 2ohms seems much less refined to me. More distorted and harsh, dirty, insert adjective here___. IMO you'd be better of getting an amp that can give you the power you want in bridged 4ohms. I'm guessing you're asking this because of the idea of a dual "uber" sub. I may be in the minority but I would suggest using one amp per sub and bridging it at 4ohms.


    Regards,

    Dan Hine
     
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  4. Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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    You won’t find many pro amps that will do 2-ohms bridged. In fact I don’t know of any (of course, as soon as I put this up someone will come up with one!) [​IMG]
    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt
     
  5. ok...well...I guess I will give up with 2ohms bridged=(
     
  6. Chris Hoppe

    Chris Hoppe Stunt Coordinator

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    Actually, I have bridged my K2 into a 2 ohm load! I have a TC Sounds 4HP driver with dual voice coils.

    I had to stop bridging into 2 ohms because it was TOO DAMN POWERFUL! I was actually bottoming the driver.

    Anyways, it ran that load with no problem and no sound quality issues either. Just make sure you use very thick speaker cables because at super low impedance loads, the cable can become significant.

    Heat was not an issue either. This amp is really designed to take a huge amount of abuse. In live sound applications, these amps are typically driven into continuous clipping for hours at a time.

    So I think running a lower load than recommended is no problem.
     
  7. Mark Seaton

    Mark Seaton Supporting Actor

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    Hey Chris,

    Long time no see.

    Did Crown ever give you a solution to defeating or altering the "sleep" mode of the K2? I'm waiting to hear back from Crown myself, as I have a situation where this could be a real problem, and was wondering what you found? Had you determined if the sensing circuit was before or after the input attenuation?

    Thanks in advance,
     
  8. Chris Hoppe

    Chris Hoppe Stunt Coordinator

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    Hey Mark!

    Yes, there is an R/C network in there that you can either increase the capacitor or resistor to increase the time.

    There is also a spot for a jumper that disables the sleep mode entirely. That's what I did, although it does cause the amp to run pretty hot. That's no problem though, it stays the same temperature no matter how hard you push it.

    Not sure where in the signal chain the attenuation is.
     
  9. Mark Seaton

    Mark Seaton Supporting Actor

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    Thanks a lot Chris.
    That helps a bunch. My reason for asking about the input attenuation was a hope that boosting the input signal (an easy option in this system) might keep the level enough to ensure turn on.
    My only other question is if disabling the sleep mode causes any turn on thumps? We can switch the AC easily, but I'm not sure how the amp will react yet.
    Thanks again, and we'll have to hook up again in the future. I have some interesting toys coming together.[​IMG]
     
  10. Chris Hoppe

    Chris Hoppe Stunt Coordinator

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    Oh, I see what you're getting at. I think the sense circuit is based on actual input voltage to the amp. So turning the sensitivity down and cranking the signal doesn't help.
     
  11. jeff lam

    jeff lam Screenwriter

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    Although not recommended, I'm sure that amp will handle the 2 ohm load just fine. That is until you crank it up and it gets real hot real quick. It may even go into the protection mode and shut down. Although Crown has the best " no questions asked" warranty around.
     
  12. Chris Hoppe

    Chris Hoppe Stunt Coordinator

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    Actually, I have cranked it, and the heat is fine. It is a switching amp and is not bothered by heat much.

    No home sub application is going to be nearly as stressful as a pro audio application, even when running into 2 ohms.
     
  13. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    I bought my K2 used and leave it on all the time. I always have a small turn on thump when I power on my receiver for some reason. I also notice a slight hum that comes and goes every so often. Not sure why. It even does it with the entire system turned off (except for the amp, of course). Anyone know why?

    Brian
     
  14. Dan Hine

    Dan Hine Screenwriter

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    The heat may not be a problem to the amplifier but it could be a problem to the driver.

    Also, may I politely ask what kinds of pro audio applications you're involved in? Neither of the companies I freelance for have ever pushed their amps into continuous clipping, especially not for hours at a time. In fact one of the companies sent back a pallet full of Crown amps because they had a constant DC current running through the outputs, which IIRC is what a clipped signal is. Those amps succeeded in literally ripping apart the drivers in some Aura Subs.

    It's not so much that I doubt you, Chris, but that everything I have learned is exactly the opposite of what you're saying. So color me confused...


    Regards,

    Dan Hine
     
  15. How is your amp hooked up?

    I had some slight groud loop hum initially, till I rewired..then it all went away. perhaps you can try it.

    The following is unbalanced

    dvd to reciever, reciever to bfd.

    then I went balanced (this is what got rid of the hum)
    balanced bfd to K2.


    Give it a shot=)
     
  16. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Tony,

    I haven't even hooked up the BFD to the system yet. When I do I'll remember that and use a balanced cable.

    Brian
     
  17. Chris Hoppe

    Chris Hoppe Stunt Coordinator

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    Well, I have some experience in mixing sound for live bands here and there, as a hobby mostly. Just one of the many things I do related to sound.

    Anyways, it's been my experience that if you look at the amp rack at a typical rock concert, the clip lights are very often on solid! Many engineers can't even hear this happening. (not implicating you ;-)

    Clipping is not the same thing as DC on the outputs of the amp. I'm not sure if that's what you meant. That pallet of amps were definitely defective though. When you get DC on the output of an amp, it's usually because the output transistors are fried. (shorted)
     

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