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covering up seams (1 Viewer)

Andrew Moore

Auditioning
Joined
Feb 11, 2001
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5
alright, how do you cover up the seams. Like the outter seams that show where your sides were joined. how do you cover them up so your sub looks seamless? Wood filler? help me!
 

TimForman

Supporting Actor
Joined
Dec 4, 2002
Messages
847
If you're using MDF and made butt joints you may be able to get away with using wood filler on the cut ends. I'd suggest using a router to round them over, then filler and sand smooth.
 

Allen Ross

Supporting Actor
Joined
Sep 30, 2002
Messages
819
i used elmers wood filler, it did a good jub but, then on my screw holes it expanded or, the MDF shrunk, either way i have nipples all over my tempest, luckly its still primer so if i ever decide to actually finish it all i have to do is sand the beast down again.
 

John E Janowitz

Second Unit
Joined
Oct 30, 2000
Messages
445
One of the hardest things to do is find filler that sands easily without gumming up the sandpaper and is also durable. I went through all kinds of fillers from the elmers stuff, to different kinds of spackeling, minwax 2part filler, bondo, aned all kinds of other wood fillers before finally finding things that work well and quickly. Bondo does work well, but it takes a little more effort to mix it up, and you ahve a short window to work with it before it begins to set up. Also if you just have a tiny spot to do, you usually end up wasting a lot since it's hard to mix very small amounts.

Here is what I have found, and what I now use. If you have large gaps or holes, Plastic Wood works very well for filling and building up. Once dry it sands easily. No mixing, and it doesn't shrink much at all. The only problem is that it is pretty coarse so it doesn't go into small cracks well. For that I use a FamoWood filler, either the oil or water based kind. This gets into tiny cracks and sands easily.

After your filler is dry, sand everything with 220 grit paper. The flat surfaces of MDF are usually smooth to begin with. The edges will be rough from saw cuts or the factory edges. The smoother your edges are, the easier they will be to paint.

Then the most important thing in finishing is to use a high build primer. The edges of mdf are not smooth so they will soak in a lot of primer. The more high build you have, the more solids are deposited on the surface, and the quicker it gets filled up. I use a Valspar white primer, similar to the clear conversion varnish that I use as a top coat. It is an industrial product though so may not be easy to find. What will also work well is the yellow automotive primer. It is a very high build polyurethane enamel product with lots of solids. It's almost like liquid bondo. It will most likely have a catalyst to make it dry properly, although I have seen a few that don't. Once dry it will be easily sandable without gumming up sandpaper like many other finishes do. It also dries very quickly. You can begin sanding about 30min after applying it if it is catalyzed properly. It is usually sprayed on with a cup gun, but I would imagine you could brush it on or roll it on just as well.

Then what I do on some enclosures for a finish is to spray a light coat of the fleck stone or granite look paint from a spray can. Let it dry and flick off any large chunks that happened to spray on to get a nice even, fine texture. Then I spray 2 coats of black polyurethane enamel, and one coat of clear conversion varnish. These 3 coats build up quite a bit, making the texture appear even finer. They also lock everything in, giving a very durable finish where the texture won't come off easily when scratched.

John
 

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