Cleaning my Old Amps (1 Viewer)

[Jin E]

I have a couple of old Kenwood Amps (from the 70's) that need some contact cleaning. They have developed some scratchyness then adjusting tone controls/ volume/ etc. This will be the first time I've done anything like this... so if you guys have any advice (spray techniques, brands, etc) I'd really appreciate it. My plan is to pop open the case and just go to town with the spray-type cleaner 9Radio Shack Part Number 64-4320). Any advice would be greatly appreciated! (Check out the amps below... and in links in my sig)

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-Jin
My Theater

 

[Saurav]

Those are gorgeous amps! I remember seeing some information about this on http://www.audioasylum.com

 

[Chuck Kent]

Jin: I can't recommend using the Radio Shack cleaner. While it helps, the control "crackles" have ALWAYS returned after a while.
The product I like the best is called DeoxIT (or R5 Power Booster, they are the same except for some minor differences in the 5% solutions) made by Caig Laboratories. It is definitely a bit more expensive but this is some of the same stuff the pros use.
Here's a link to Caig's website. There is quite a bit of info on the site and they can offer help in tracking down a retailer. They make DeoxIT/R5 in spray cans or pump sprays.
Good Luck!
http://www.caig.com/prod.htm
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[Edited last by Chuck Kent on August 27, 2001 at 07:20 PM]

 

[Chuck Kent]

Hmmm...
Glancing through the new 2002 Radio Shack catalog and lo and behold, on page 231, is a listing for spray Caig DeoxIT for $7.95 (910-3879.) It is a special order though.
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[Jin E]

I sprayed my controls down pretty good. I was a little messy with it and got some on the board. An area inhabited by a bunch of tightly packed resistors now has a shiny gloss look because of the lube in the spray. Should I try to wash this off somehow before I fire the Amp up?
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-Jin
My Theater

 

[Chuck Kent]

I guess it depends on how much.
If you think it is way too much, you might try using a few Q-Tips and carefully wipe up the excess. IMO, I don't think I'd spray any other stuff in there (cleaners for example.) Most all tuner/contact cleaners are petroleum/oily based. Hard stuff to get out...

 

[Chris PC]

Do Not "WASH IT OFF WITH WATER!" The contact cleaner is meant to evaporate off for the most part, leaving bhind very little conductive material. Water is highly conductive, unless you use double distilled water and even then once the water touched the equipment it'll surely disolve enough ions to short out your equipment if you turn it on and its not FULLY dry. Using contact cleaner conservatively, spraying a fair amount, but just through the exposed holes, it has always dried up in 1/2 hour enough to use without damaging my integrated amp.
Just let the contact cleaner dry. Use clean dust-less rags or Q-tips.
[Edited last by Chris PC on November 04, 2001 at 08:09 PM]

 

[Russell _T]

Guys,
Would this be the same situation where the unit produces static when it is turned on, for about 30 seconds and then stops. This has been driving me crazy with an old Sansui receiver from 1975???
Thanks,
Russ

 

[Clinton McClure]

Another very good contact cleaner is made by the LPS company. It is an electrical contact cleaner which completely evaporates within a few seconds of contact and leaves no residue or film. It's not cheap, though, at about $39 a can last time I bought some.
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My DVD Collection Casa del Clint

 

[Chuck Kent]

Russell: I am no repairman or engineer but it sounds like what I have read when a unit's storage capacitors are going bad. I'd call a repair shop or 2 and see what they think...
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