Car Stereo Sub Box Questions before Build.. (1 Viewer)

[MikeGee]

Hey guys
I recently picked up 2 new 12" Pioneer speakers for my car. Nothing too crazy 150rms each. (Pioneer TS-W301R)
I was wondering what kind of box you guys would build. I got all my wood 3/4" MDF and i also have plexy glass if needed. Just waiting for a good design before i start cutting.

For single speakers they reccomend the following (I guess i'll just double what they say cause i'll have 2 speakers) also if you guys had any helping dimensions that'd be very helpful.

Sealed
1.5cu. ft

Ported
1.65cu. ft

Bandpass
1.0cu. ft on one side and 0.8cu.ft on the other side

Just had a little trouble understanding the wave patterns for each box.

 

[Robert_J]

Wave pattern? If they included a frequency response graph for each design and you had problems with it, then I suggest you stick with the sealed design. Build this and cut the holes to fit your subs. It can't get much easier.

-Robert

 

[MikeGee]

Thats a pretty straightforward box, question tho. My 15" Quatro sub box i built had the same idea with building a baffle on the inside to mount the speaker on so that the speaker does not protrude and is flush with the exterior. Would it be a dramatic change in sound if i don't put a baffle?
http://www.centicide.com/images/SubBox.jpg pretty much like this except non-vented.

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to use a ported box?

 

[Robert_J]

Flush mounting subs is purely cosmetic. There will be no change in the output.

We could spend days arguing ported vs. sealed. To sum it up, they are more difficult to properly integrate into your car. Tune it too low and you will have a bass monster. Tune it too high and you will have an SPL fart box. If you want to take the time to try different boxes with different tuning frequencies then they are great. The port enhances the low end without being overpowering.

-Robert