Can Someone Assist with Panasonic UB9000 Questions? (2 Viewers)

[Robert Crawford]

Maybe if you didn't create them when someone is genuinely attempting to learn how all this works -- instead going off on that individual for not replying in the fashion you prefer for some unknown reason -- you wouldn't feel "sucked in."

At any rate, I love how you didn't even address my questions regarding why you're being so hostile with me.

Before I'm done being baited any longer by you, I'll state this: Robert did NOT address specific questions I asked about the player and its behavior with my display, and though you're going to stick by this, the fact remains that I didn't get my particular queries addressed.

I'm not arguing this with you any longer; I am moving on to responding now to those who may have added something since the last time I was here.

For clarification purposes, please restate your specific questions.

 

[Kaskade1309]

The minor issues you are experiencing are not from the player, but the display. Either get a new TV, or deal with the very minor issues you are experiencing. You got banned from another site for posting exhaustive, and combative posts about the issues only you are experiencing. And your questions have been answered again, and again, and again.
Please Adam, give it a rest, and enjoy what you have.

I didn't get banned for posting exhaustive, combative posts -- that is an out and out lie. When I tried to defend myself against people who clearly had an agenda to bait me into an argument and then "rat" me out to moderators -- something that certain members CONFIRMED was happening in private to me -- I was lashed out at. Many of these questions were NOT answered; I'd like to know exactly what is so "combative" about trying to find out why something is working the way it is with regard to MY display?

I have a sneaking suspicion you are one of the moderators who "had it in" for me and who encouraged people to derail the threads I was part of because of personal reasons. It was SO clear what was going on: There was NO activity by certain people who I had on my ignore list UNTIL I started asking questions about this player and the way it's interacting with my NU8000 (and, of course, I'm going to get the ambiguous "Your TV sucks and that's why...." commentary; we won't even go into the fact that I was made fun of by Robert in the UB820 thread in that forum for still enjoying and playing DVDs when I asked why the player didn't have a zoom feature...but of course NO one knows about that. I even had some members PM me and claim "some people have their heads up their asses on this site when it comes to understanding that people still watch DVDs.") and then those people came into the thread to attack me, again, claiming that I'm a "piece of work" and that "I'll never be happy" (even though I'm just trying to get a handle on why certain features work they way they do on a $1K Blu-ray player)...but they NEVER contributed to the thread with ANYTHING else to say about the product until I popped up and asked questions.

It's truly sad that I couldn't get any help there and elsewhere until I asked members privately for information about settings, and then I couldn't even respond because I was unfairly removed from the member roster there. It's a known fact around the internet that the moderators there are just downright asinine and play favorites -- ALL the time.

What you call "MINOR issues" are not to me -- to this day, I have not received ANY feedback regarding what I'm asking with regard to my display and the way the HDR Optimizer is working with it, except for people telling me I basically have the wrong TV hooked up to this player. What's done is done. I have the player, and I purchased it because I couldn't get an Oppo 203 and my Cambridge CXUHD malfunctioned with DVDs. Aside from the Pioneer LX500, which isn't coming back into stock anytime soon, I couldn't get a premium unit save for the UB9000. It's here, in my system, and if my display isn't up to "mating" with it properly, there's nothing I can do about it for the time being.

Why can't we just focus on what I am asking IN PARTICULAR? Rather than say "it's your display" or "your concerns are minor and you should just enjoy what you have" why can't I get some straight answers about all this? I want to know if it is normal not to see a difference between HDR10+ and HDR10, and if my display's default HDR settings should remain in place while viewing dynamic HDR10+ content.

 

[Kaskade1309]

For clarification purposes, please restate your specific questions.

Thanks Robert...let me round them up again and post them.

 

[Kaskade1309]

Please see bold.

I own a Samsung UN65NU8000 and recently purchased a Panasonic DP-UB9000 Ultra HD Blu-ray player to replace a Cambridge Audio CXUHD unit that was connected to my NU that was giving me some trouble with DVD playback (and which their repair center couldn't fix even after sending the player out twice). While the Panasonic delivers gorgeous Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray images to the NU8000, I have some questions related to HDR settings and HDR10+ behavior as they relate to a special feature in the UB9000 called "HDR Optimizer"...

First of all, when I viewed UHD discs on my previous player, the Cambridge CXUHD, the unit would just send out the HDR10 signal (I didn't own any discs with HDR10+ yet) and I would leave the NU8000 in its default HDR-Movie mode settings (so Backlight would be maxed out, Contrast would be maxed out and Local Dimming would be on High), as I was told that this is what needed to be done so that the TV could tonemap the incoming signal properly. With the new Panasonic player, there's a feature called "HDR Optimizer," which is supposed to take HDR10 content and perform the tonemapping before it gets to the display, if I understand it right; it's an on/off toggle in the player's menus, with some sliders to adjust beneath it (for things like Tone Curve, Brightness and Dynamic Range, but I leave these on "0").

Now, when I watch discs that were previously really bright and punchy -- such as Aquaman and The Fate of the Furious -- on the Cambridge through the Panasonic with the HDR Optimizer ON, the image looks even BETTER, with incredibly punchy highlights and just more detail to the picture. In the Optimizer's menus, there's a setting for choosing the right kind of display that's connected to the player, and I leave this on "Middle/High Luminance LCD" for the NU8000, which is the default setting out of the box (the other selections are "OLED," "Super Bright Lumiance LCD," "Basic Luminance LCD" and two options for projectors); before I go any further -- should this "Middle/High" setting be correct for the NU, or should it be on "Basic Luminance LCD"?

Here's my primary question about all this: When using the HDR Optimizer in the player, should the default HDR picture settings in the Samsung remain where they are? In other words, should I be leaving Backlight on 50 and Contrast on 50 if the PLAYER is supposedly doing the heavy lifting of the tonemapping process?

Now, in getting to my HDR10+ questions -- we picked up our first UHD Blu-ray Disc with this format, The Shining, and ran it through the Panasonic last night. I can confirm that the player and display were indeed showing the HDR10+ layer of the disc (it also comes with a Dolby Vision layer and, of course, the base HDR10) as evidenced by the Panasonic putting up the "HDR10+" logo upon loading. Here's the thing though: While the transfer of the film looked awesome and miles ahead of the DVD version I've been watching for years, I didn't really notice that much of a difference between the HDR10+ presentation and the HDR10 presentation on other films we've watched on the NU; I realize that HDR10+ is supposed to be Samsung's "answer" to Dolby Vision in that it's a dynamic HDR format that optimizes scenes on the fly, so to speak (and that Samsung doesn't include DV in their displays), but I didn't really notice anything that had me thinking this is a "different experience" than HDR10...

My wife actually noticed a couple of moments where she claimed the screen seemed to "fluctuate" and auto-adjust between different shots of characters in one scene, as if the screen would get clearer and brighter and then go back again...but my eyes, unbelievably, didn't really catch this. I just chalked this up to the HDR10+ system "doing its thing" and correcting on a scene-by-scene basis.

Here's what I'd like to know: Is it normal that HDR10+ or Dolby Vision for that matter doesn't really look much different from regular HDR10? Is this something that is going to be title-dependent?

Also -- when viewing HDR10+ content, do my NU8000's settings in HDR-Movie mode remain the same? Does Backlight and Contrast still get maxed out, or are there different settings that must be made for this content?

 

[Bryan^H]

For my display, is MIDDLE/HIGH LUMINANCE LCD the right choice for the display type?
(Note: 4K Blu-rays with HDR, such as Aquaman, look fantastic on the player using the Optimizer, but I just want to be sure.)

Yes
Does anything need to be touched in that sub-menu for the Optimizer (the sliders for Tone Curve, Dynamic Range, etc.) or can they be left at "0"?
Adjust them as you see fit for optimal image quality that pleases you. If you are pleased with the sliders at zero, leave them at zero.


My display automatically goes into HDR mode when it senses the HDR signal from a source like the Panasonic, so it maxes out Backlight and Contrast and puts Local Dimming on "High"...should these settings stay the same when the Optimizer is on?

Yes
When viewing regular Blu-rays, I noticed, when I pull up the playback data via the UB9000's remote, that the unit is taking the 8-Bit 4:2:0 data of the Blu-ray and sending out 10-Bit 4:4:4...is this because of the Panasonic's Chroma Upsampling feature, and is this correct?

Yes

 

[Kaskade1309]

Thank you, Bryan.

 

[Bryan^H]

Thank you, Bryan.

You're welcome.

 

[Gregg Loewen]

Im late to the party, sorry guys.
I also have a headache....moving on.

Happy Easter!

 

[Robert_Zohn]

Perhaps I didn't explain myself correctly in the first post; let me try it like this:

I own a Samsung UN65NU8000 and recently purchased a Panasonic DP-UB9000 Ultra HD Blu-ray player to replace a Cambridge Audio CXUHD unit that was connected to my NU that was giving me some trouble with DVD playback (and which their repair center couldn't fix even after sending the player out twice). While the Panasonic delivers gorgeous Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray images to the NU8000, I have some questions related to HDR settings and HDR10+ behavior as they relate to a special feature in the UB9000 called "HDR Optimizer"...

First of all, when I viewed UHD discs on my previous player, the Cambridge CXUHD, the unit would just send out the HDR10 signal (I didn't own any discs with HDR10+ yet) and I would leave the NU8000 in its default HDR-Movie mode settings (so Backlight would be maxed out, Contrast would be maxed out and Local Dimming would be on High), as I was told that this is what needed to be done so that the TV could tonemap the incoming signal properly. With the new Panasonic player, there's a feature called "HDR Optimizer," which is supposed to take HDR10 content and perform the tonemapping before it gets to the display, if I understand it right; it's an on/off toggle in the player's menus, with some sliders to adjust beneath it (for things like Tone Curve, Brightness and Dynamic Range, but I leave these on "0").

Now, when I watch discs that were previously really bright and punchy -- such as Aquaman and The Fate of the Furious -- on the Cambridge through the Panasonic with the HDR Optimizer ON, the image looks even BETTER, with incredibly punchy highlights and just more detail to the picture. In the Optimizer's menus, there's a setting for choosing the right kind of display that's connected to the player, and I leave this on "Middle/High Luminance LCD" for the NU8000, which is the default setting out of the box (the other selections are "OLED," "Super Bright Lumiance LCD," "Basic Luminance LCD" and two options for projectors); before I go any further -- should this "Middle/High" setting be correct for the NU, or should it be on "Basic Luminance LCD"?

Here's my primary question about all this: When using the HDR Optimizer in the player, should the default HDR picture settings in the Samsung remain where they are? In other words, should I be leaving Backlight on 50 and Contrast on 50 if the PLAYER is supposedly doing the heavy lifting of the tonemapping process?

Now, in getting to my HDR10+ questions -- we picked up our first UHD Blu-ray Disc with this format, The Shining, and ran it through the Panasonic last night. I can confirm that the player and display were indeed showing the HDR10+ layer of the disc (it also comes with a Dolby Vision layer and, of course, the base HDR10) as evidenced by the Panasonic putting up the "HDR10+" logo upon loading. Here's the thing though: While the transfer of the film looked awesome and miles ahead of the DVD version I've been watching for years, I didn't really notice that much of a difference between the HDR10+ presentation and the HDR10 presentation on other films we've watched on the NU; I realize that HDR10+ is supposed to be Samsung's "answer" to Dolby Vision in that it's a dynamic HDR format that optimizes scenes on the fly, so to speak (and that Samsung doesn't include DV in their displays), but I didn't really notice anything that had me thinking this is a "different experience" than HDR10...

My wife actually noticed a couple of moments where she claimed the screen seemed to "fluctuate" and auto-adjust between different shots of characters in one scene, as if the screen would get clearer and brighter and then go back again...but my eyes, unbelievably, didn't really catch this. I just chalked this up to the HDR10+ system "doing its thing" and correcting on a scene-by-scene basis.

Here's what I'd like to know: Is it normal that HDR10+ or Dolby Vision for that matter doesn't really look much different from regular HDR10? Is this something that is going to be title-dependent?

Also -- when viewing HDR10+ content, do my NU8000's settings in HDR-Movie mode remain the same? Does Backlight and Contrast still get maxed out, or are there different settings that must be made for this content?

If someone could lend some insight here it would be greatly appreciated.

Adam, I suggest reading the UB9000 thread that has the answers to most of your questions.

It's a lot of reading, but you will find it very helpful.