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Bike Lock Rusted Shut (1 Viewer)

Matt Stone

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Looking for a little practical advice here. I moved a couple of years ago from my apartment on the Purdue campus, but left my bike on the rack there because I went back a few times a week to ride it around campus. I made the mistake of leaving it on the rack all winter long. I went back yesterday to bring it back to my house for yearly maintenance (which it desperately needs), but found the lock (a Kryptonite New Yorker) to be rusted shut. I jiggled the key and even banged it on the rack. No luck though. Now, I'm freaking out a little bit, because I'd like to get my bike back. Any thoughts? Should I call a lock-smith, or is there anything that I can buy to help me out.

Thanks!
 

Steve_Tk

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Don't know what kind of lock that is, but most bike locks are garbage. Bolt cutters might work, or just a saw that can be used on steel.

If the lock is rusted shut, then you can bet the chain is also.
 

Jeff Savage

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Liquid Nitrogen and a sledgehammer or find someone you know with a cutting torch.

Ok maybe this will be more practical...I would suggest spraying the lock with a penetrating oil for a week and see if that helps.

Laters,
Jeff
 

Matt Stone

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Thanks for the suggestions, guys! I'll try it either later tonight or tomorrow and see how it goes.
 

JoeyR

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https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/kanopnlu.htm

AeroKroil, I'm in the HVAC industry and every technician carries at least one can on their truck. For best results spray the lock one day and let it set, go back the next day and let it set, by the third day you should be able to unlock it with ease. You dont have a pic of the lock so I dont know how bad it is there is a chance you may be able to open it on the second day or even the first after 30 minutes, just giving you worst case scenario.
 

Matt Stone

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There's no visible rust on the outside of the lock, I just can't quite turn the key all the way around to unlock. Not sure if the rust is in the key slot or the shackle area, but either way, it sounds like it's a solvable problem. Thanks for all the help.
 

Jeff Gatie

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Don 't know if they still do, but the Kryptonite company used to void the insurance policy for New York City because the enterprising NYC thieves used to blast them with liquid Nitrogen and smack them with a hammer. My buddy had his $2000 mountain bike stolen this way back in 1990 and they told him they could not pay because it was stolen in NYC. The company rep called NYC thieves "our own little field testing unit." Funny that they now come out with a model called "The New Yorker".
 

Jay H

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Matt Stone

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Yes, but that's a different type of lock. Mine is not the circular key that is busted by the the pen-cap. I bought this lock specifically after I had two bikes stolen within one week (one outside Ross-Ade Stadium and one outside my apartment on the other side of campus about 6 days later). One of those was a U-Lock that probably was picked with a Bic pen and the other was a thick Kryptonite chain-lock that the police thought was drilled. Talk about bad luck :) After that, I said screw it and paid ~75 for this lock.

Oh, and BTW...the PB Penetrating Catalyst totally worked! I sprayed a bunch on and walked around campus for about an hour, came back and bam! Didn't even have to jiggle it. A bunch of nasty, rusty grease leaked dripped out of the lock :)

Thanks so much for the help guys!
 

Matt Stone

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Haha :)

I think I'm going to fix up the bike now (could use a new chain, new handlebar grips, new brakes, etc) and was wondering if you guys recommend getting it done by a shop or doing it myself. I've heard changing a chain can be a little cumbersome, but I'd like to give it a shot. Thoughts?
 

Jay H

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Well, the physical changing of the chain isn't that big a deal, although you would be better off to have a chain tool, something like:



You can get a new chain (Don't forget to get the right chain for the speeds, i.e. there ARE differences (width) between most 7spds and older and the newer 8/9 spd MTB chains...

The cumbersome part is not really the changing of the chain, it's the effect of a new chain on the shifting and drivetrain that can be cumbersome. If you haven't replaced your chain in a bit, you have what is called chain stretch:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain

Look down for the description.

In any case, it isn't too uncommon for folks simply replacing a chain to have problems with the new chain and old chainrings. Noisy chains, freewheeling, etc because the chainrings and cassette are worn to your old chain, a new chain may mess up things or may not last as long due to the teeth. May or may not be a problem. Chains though are cheap (relative to most other bike parts)...

Jay
 

Matt Stone

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I might just pull the trigger on a new chain then. I was planning on getting a chain-tool as well. Any other recommendations for typical maintenance?
 

Jay H

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Well, considering that the bike has been sitting outside all winder (in Purdue, no less), have you checked out everything else? Brake cables, shifter cables, many of them tend to like to rust in winter.

You need to really check the whole bike out, how does it shift and brake? What other kind of visible rust is on the bike?

bikes don't like to be outside in winter, especially with salt!

Jay
 

Matt Stone

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I just did a preliminary cleaning of the bike. The brake and shifter cables are both good. There was a tad bit of rust on the cartridge, but it was only on the tips and a little bit of Penetrating Catalyst cleaned it up. The chain is fucked, so I'll definitely get a new one. The handle-bar grips are pretty FUBAR'd as well, but I was having problems with them before. Any idea how I should go about removing them?
 

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