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BIC vs Klipsch subs ... which to buy? (models mentioned in thread) (1 Viewer)

ChromeJob

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So as the subject indicates ... I'm shopping for an economical Sub to augment my Bose 401s (which reach down to about 30Hz, but there's some wavering from 50 to 90). I'm not looking for huge, thudding, thrumming bass. I want tight, accurate, clean low freqs, ideally down to 25Hz before dropping off. It will be installed in the ground floor of a townhome sitting on a concrete slab.

I've read several threads here and a few other forums, and found some compelling recommendations and anecdotal reports on the following, all in a similar price range on Amazon:

Klipsch Sub-12HG
BIC F12
BIC V1120

During shopping also found:

BIC RTR-EV1200

I've also noticed the Klipsch RW-12II, which is quite a bit more, but I saw some strong recommendations for an earlier RW-12 model, wondering if this is truly feet and thuds better than the others.

I saw a lot of recommendations for SVS (Lava?) and another brand, but frankly, I'm interested in something I can get on Amazon. I know, that's a silly limitation.

All feedback, suggestions, or war stories welcome. Thanks!

P.S. Polk's 505 model has a lot of fans, but not on these forums. A lot of posts indicate that as good as Polk's speakers are, their subs ... aren't.
 

ArmSC

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The BIC F12 is the reigning budget champ in the $200 price range. However, the NXG seems to be getting some good recommendations lately as a step up from the F12. I have not heard it but in some other theads I've read It seems to be one/maybe the best sub $400 subwoofers.
 

ChromeJob

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Someone elsewhere suggested a JBL SUB550P, steeply discounted on Amazon (cherry finish), but I can't find many reviews to corroborate it.
 

ArmSC

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I've never heard that JBL mentioned in anything I've read but that doesn't mean it's not good. You're certainly right about the discounted price though. That guy is right there with the NXG price wise. However, that NXG seems to be getting a lot of good reviews not to mention it comes with a 12" driver.
 

ChromeJob

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As I'm wary of the quality and performance of these $200-$400 subs, I'm leaning seriously to either SVS PB-1000 or Hsu VTF-1 MK2 (and tempted by the lower-freq rated VTF-2 MK4). More money, but people across several forums are telling me they would provide quality and performance far beyond their $ tag. E.g. "no one ever complained about buying too nice of a subwoofer." :)
 

ArmSC

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Anything SVS or HSU should be a safe bet. The catch is you're going up in price so it comes down to what is more important, price or performance.


If you have $500+ for a sub then get one of those guys. The lower frequency response and VTF of the HSU are interesting. Looks like they are running a St. Patty's sale too.
 

ChromeJob

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Yes, I'm currently trying to decide between the VTF-1 and VTF-2. Reading the WIDESCREEN REVIEW "Fundamentals" article in issue 172 to counsel me. (Their review of the VTF2 is really swaying me....)
 

John Garcia

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Get the VTF-2 :D It is a solid sub.


Tom V. of PSA and former founder of SVS gave the NXG a nod of approval, so I'd also say it is a good bet if price is a problem.
 

ChromeJob

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I think I'm probably better off selling a few stocks to get Hsu subs and start with something good. I could get the NXG -500 for little less change, but then I'm setting myself up to sell it for something better "someday." With Hsu offering a little discount now, why not go the higher-end route now.

I've read enough recommendations to use two subs for a balanced presentation, so I'm toying with the idea of a VTF-1 and a VTF-2 together. This morning I noticed that they have their MBM-12 (mid-bass module, 50Hz - 200Hz; down-facing woofer and front-firing port) on sale as well ... I'm curious about a VTF-1 tuned to focus < 60Hz and an MBM-12 to handle that up to 180 or so. These two are in the price range of a single VTF-3 or VTF15H Mk 2 (Mk 1 is marked down currently). My mains, Bose 401s, handle down to 100Hz comfortably, so perhaps this is overkill for a system with towers for mains (i.e. an MBM is better suited for smaller, full-range bookshelf speakers).

Suggestions or opinions welcome.

Another question ... I'm in a townhome with a cement slab, no wood floors ... would the downward firing VTF-1/2/3s work effectively, or should I be looking at a front-firing module?
 

ChromeJob

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Yeah. This morning I was musing about feeding them via LFE line level outputs with different crossover settings on the subs, and setting the amp to 120Hz. . Bi-amp is available on the RX-v775, but if I set L+R to "small" I don't think subs on the bi-amp outputs will get the low freqs. (I can post Yamaha amp UG pages if needed to illustrate.)
 

ChromeJob

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No, I was thinking the bi-amp outputs could be used direct to the subs so they could use their own crossovers. The 775 does not have any additional LR outputs.

401s only have single input terminals.
 

ArmSC

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ChromeJob said:
Suggestions or opinions welcome

I think you should get a nice quality sub and give it a shot first before adding in a MBM, biamping, or anything else. Just get either a HSU (whatever flavor you think will taste good) or even the NXG and put that bad boy into your system. Cross the Bose at whatever you feel comfortable crossing them at and see how it sounds. I'm willing to bet just adding in a decent sub will make your system sound much better without adding in a bunch of complexity. If you don't like it or feel like it's not getting it done then investigate other options. You're still going to need a sub either way.
 

Raul Marquez

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I bought this Martin Logan subwoofer late last year and I'm very happy with it.....



71O0ogaUb3L._SL1200_.jpg



MartinLogan DYN500D Dynamo 500 Subwoofer (Black)


by MartinLogan



Price: $495.00 Free Shipping for Prime Members



Product Specifications


Brand NameMartinLogan
Speaker TypeFloorstanding
Color NameBlack
Driver Configuration1 x 10" poly cone
Frequency Response Curve29 - 200 Hz
Impedance20000 ohm
Crossover Description50 - 200 Hz
Speaker Driver Material TypePolypropylene
RMS Power Range - Amplifiers120 watts



Full info on www.amazon.com
 

ChromeJob

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schan1269 said:
Do what?

You want to run the sub with the high level, instead of a proper shielded cable...

Why?
Trying to get one sub crossing over at, say, 120hz, the other crossing over at 80hz. The Martin Logan that I'm now test driving disables the crossover for line level LFE input.

Just an alternative way to set up that I was toying with, not seriously....

ArmSC said:
I think you should get a nice quality sub and give it a shot first before adding in a MBM, biamping, or anything else. Just get either a HSU (whatever flavor you think will taste good) or even the NXG and put that bad boy into your system. Cross the Bose at whatever you feel comfortable crossing them at and see how it sounds. I'm willing to bet just adding in a decent sub will make your system sound much better without adding in a bunch of complexity. If you don't like it or feel like it's not getting it done then investigate other options. You're still going to need a sub either way.
Raul Marquez said:
I bought this Martin Logan subwoofer late last year and I'm very happy with it.....
m
That's actually what I brought home yesterday fr BB to test a suggestion of crossing over at 120hz. Seems solid, but some rumbling in sustained low sounds.
 

Raul Marquez

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ChromeJob said:
Trying to get one sub crossing over at, say, 120hz, the other crossing over at 80hz. The Martin Logan that I'm now test driving disables the crossover for line level LFE input.

Just an alternative way to set up that I was toying with, not seriously....

That's actually what I brought home yesterday fr BB to test a suggestion of crossing over at 120hz. Seems solid, but some rumbling in sustained low sounds.

David,


Excusing my ignorance...


Why a crossover at 120hz? I thought that it should be at 80hz as per THX.



Raul
 

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