Best and cheapest sub to go 20-25hz? (1 Viewer)

[Ryan Cruz]

at good DB ratings of course

 

[Dustin B]

You only want the sub to cover 20-25hz? Why?

Dayton DVC15" with the PE 300-794 plate amp. Put it in a 280L enclosure tuned to 18hz with a 6" port. Major bass for very little cash.

$132.50 for the driver, $120 for the amp. $100-200 for the enclosure (add another $100-200 if you can't build the enclosure yourself). So $350-450 and you'll have a sub that could beat out a SVS 16-46CS+ and likely match an Ultra.

 

[Ryan Cruz]

oops, to clarify, I'm looking for a sub that is capable of going that low. Where can I find a website that teaches me how to do DIY subs?

 

[Earl Simpson]

UBID/ AR 115 or Audio Source SW15. These are the best bang for the buck. Next week they sould have a non minimum price sale.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Ryan,

Just step on over the the DIY forum and start browsing around. There's tons of info over there and plenty of us willing to help.

Brian

 

[Dustin B]

To get you started, here is a page linked to from the DIY Advanced section with a large array of projects documented on the web. Some better than others.
http://members.tripod.com/~terrycthe...um/page12.html
The link in my sig takes you to my website which includes two different DIY sub projects.
A must first read on what is involved in building subs is Patrick Sun's pages (he is the king of documenting building projects, 100's of pics).
Sonotube style:
http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub2.html
Box style:
http://www.io.com/~patman/sbs.html
And to answer a few basic always first asked questions. There is no difference in sound between a box and tube. The tube is just easier to build, lighter and doesn't require any bracing. Although depending on the cost of the tube in your area the box can be cheaper.
As for front or downfiring orientation of the driver. No difference with two caveats. Some drivers aren't rated for downfiring. And there is something called loading you can do if you leave very little space between the floor and driver. I don't understand it and most DIY just keep the legs at least 4" long which prevents loading and makes front and down firing essentially the same.
Ohh, and if it's an option this is supposed to sound incredible. Also has the advantage of the highest WAF possible and results in a really cheap enclosure:
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/kraushome/IB.html

 

[Neil Joseph]

Ryan, many members here have built their own subs, most of which would clobber those specs. I am building my own modest sonotube sub with a killer 12" driver I discovered that is not available in the US. Anyway, check this area here for more tips.

 

[John A. Casler]

Ryan,
If you don't feel like "building your own", the VMPS "New Original Sub" is $499.
If you feel semi-handy the Kit is $409, and it will give you all the bass you need for most apps.
http://www.ozonik.com/vmps/e/p-sub.htm (half way down the page)
or:
http://www.vmpsaudio.com/sub1.htm
John Casler

 

[Dustin B]

Acoustic Visions also sells flat kits. You just have to assemble and finish them.

 

[Ethan Taylor]

 

[Chris PC]

Mirage BPS-400 isn't too expensive as I paid $700.00 USD and it goes to 18 hz with two 12" woofers and a 400 watt RMS 1600 watt max D-switching amp.