Basement Soundproofing - Drop Ceiling Insulation and Caulking Air Gaps

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Rob Compton, Jul 13, 2003.

  1. Rob Compton

    Rob Compton Auditioning

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    I am in the process of remodeling my basement into a home theater/home office area. The framing and electrical wiring are complete and I will soon be insulating and drywalling (after my building inspection). I have read a lot of posts regarding soundproofing and drop ceilings. I am using Armstrong Sahara Ceiling tiles. The packaging indicates they reduce sound transmission by 50%, but I still would like to insulate the ceiling.

    I am using JM ComforTherm insulation for the walls. I was considering attaching this insulation between the ceiling joists with my staple gun. Some people have mentioned just laying it on top of the tiles, but I would prefer having it out of the way if I access my wiring. I am also planning on wrapping some water pipes and ducts with insulation and using cable ties to keep the insulation secure. I don't need the room to be a soundproof "tomb" because our bedroom and my wife will be on the 2nd floor late at night. Would this be sufficient? I am concerned with tile vibration from bass, but I will wait and see if that is an issue after the ceiling is installed.

    Also, I am going to be caulking to avoid sound transfer around outlets, stud corners, etc. Any recommendations regarding what areas to caulk and what type of caulk to use? I have seen the Owens Corning Quiet Zone caulk, but is this really much better than normal DAP sealant caulk?

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. Jon Gum

    Jon Gum Stunt Coordinator

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    I can't help you on the caulk, but as far as insulation, just use good R-12 or R-14 and you should be fine. Our joists were close enough together, we could just cram the insulation in there and it "stuck" - no securing necessary and it has stayed put.

    I am not familiar with the various styles of ceiling tiles, so I can not comment on it specifically. We have the tiles that are essentially rubber/vinyl coated fiberglass on one side and we are very happy with them (also Armstrong brand, but I do not know the model).

    Jon
     
  3. Jacques C

    Jacques C Stunt Coordinator

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    Any caulk will be better than nothing, but I used (on many recomendations) the USG Sheetrock brand Acoustic Caulk. $5 a tube (comes in the big tubes).

    As far as insulating the ceiling, the though of having to wade through fiberglass insulation every time I needed to get to the wiring send shivers up my spine. Of course, in my opinion Dante was wrong, the 7th level of hell is fiberglass insulation. [​IMG] One of the best methods to stop sound traveling up as well as stop the tiles from rattling is to place drywall tiles on top of the ceiling tiles. I would recommend bulking up the grid strength to handle the extra weight, though.

    Take care.
     
  4. Terry Montlick

    Terry Montlick Stunt Coordinator

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    Acoustical caulk will remain flexible indefinitely. Any caulk that is specifically "non-hardening" will work. If the caulk cracks, you've lost your seal. Flexible caulk is particularly important when you use suspension methods such as resilient channel, which allow the walls or ceiling to flex.
     
  5. Quiet Zone

    Quiet Zone Auditioning

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    Quiet Zone Acoustic Insulation is awesome. I also used Quiet Zone to insulate my home theater. I used it in addition to Quiet Glue between two staggered thicknesses of 5/8" gypsum. Of course, none of this can go into place until every little crack is filled with foam and/or silicone! I have a ton of Quiet Zone Batts left over (enough for 3 home theatres- misordered and can't return). If you're in the market, let me know![​IMG]
     

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