Banana clips

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Richard Harvey, Feb 26, 2002.

  1. Richard Harvey

    Richard Harvey Stunt Coordinator

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    After disconnecting my old receiver and hooking up a new receiver last week, I'm fed up with binding posts. Can someone describe for me what I need to attach banana clips to the ends of my speaker wire?

    Rich
     
  2. ColinM

    ColinM Cinematographer

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    I don't believe you need anything other than an allen wrench or a screw driver, depending on the style.
    Some models need no tools at all. They are threaded and seperate in the middle, the wire passes through the center and gets peeled back over the threads like a banana, and when you screw the halves back together the wire gets mashed in there. I have those on my center, so far so good.
    http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=278%2D306
    I'm going to try a solder set if I can find some. I am pretty good with an iron.
    - C
     
  3. BryanEB

    BryanEB Agent

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    I just got some of these plugs and am a little confused on installation. Are you saying that the wire should actually go over the part that the top screws onto? Or the flat part just above it?

    If I put the wire over where the top actually screws on, how would I screw the top back on?

    Maybe a picture would help?

    Thanks,

    Bryan
     
  4. David_Rivshin

    David_Rivshin Second Unit

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    There were once some nice pictures, but they probably were
    lost in the server crash :/ In their absense I will try to decribe the installation as best I can. I will be more descriptive than you probably need, to assist those that don't happen to have one of these connectors in their hands.
    First you unscrew the two pieces from each other. You will end up with a 'top piece' which has the banana connector and a largish indentation in the other side. You will also have a 'bottom piece' which will fit nicely into the top piece, but has a whole through the center of it. The bottom piece has a flat area at the top, with the threads right below that which mate with threads in the top piece.
    Now what you do is strip some of the insulation off the speaker wire (I think about 1/4" is good in most cases), and insert it into the bottom piece so that the bare wire sticks out it's top. Now bend some of the bare wire over the flat part of the bottom piece, twist it around, fold it up, have some general fun with it. The idea is to get it so that it will contact the top and bottom pieces as well as possible. I don't think it's a good idea to fold it over the threads, though, that will likely just end up making it hard to reassemble. Now just take the top piece and screw it down onto the bottom piece. Check at this point to make sure that the wire won't pull out with casual force. If you pull real hard you're basically garunteed that it will pull out, but that shouldn't be a problem in real life.
    I hope I did a half way decent job with this explanation. This is definately a case of a picture is worth a thousand words, but in it's absense I'll just use the thousand word approach [​IMG]
    -- Dave
     
  5. Adam_S

    Adam_S Producer

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    umm help?
    I just got my first speakers and they have binding posts on them (JBL N24) when I discovered that inserting the bare speaker wire wouldn't work I went to radio shack to get banana plugs. I have already gotten twelve gauge speaker wire but it doesn't seem to fit through the plastic part (top?) with teh insulation on. So I have to strip the insulation off about an inch and a half of wire to get it to thread teh plastic part on. also how far whould the wire go into the end? I can slide it in until it stops before it reaches the metal part that doesn't screw into the plastic at which point trying to force the cable further in results in a mashed cable.
    I'm using the generic solderless banana plugs radio shack had model number 274-721c are there bigger ones for 12 and higher gauge wire?
    should I just take these back now and get different ones?
    also another wire question. I got a wire stripper at home depot that has various indentations for gauges 18-10 when I cut it on the 12 gauge it cuts into the actual wire. should i worry about losing a few of the copper threads, or try to preserve the full wire? the 12 gauge wire is also a little bit too big to fit into teh snap posts on the back of my reciever, is 12 gauge better or should i just get 14 gauge instead?
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  6. Bob McElfresh

    Bob McElfresh Producer

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    AdamS: Take those plugs back to Radio Shack. You want to get the nice Dual Banana plugs (with the solid black spacer bar). Buy 1 set and take them home to see if they fit your speakers. (Not all binding posts follow the "convention")
    You un-screw the back part of each banana a bit. This will open up a hole in the side. Insert stripped wire and make sure no copper pokes out the other side. Trim the wires and re-insert. Screw the end back down and you will have a nice tight fit.
    If the dual-bananas dont fit, try the 2-piece bananas as david suggested. (Good description by the way [​IMG])
    Stripping: Loosing a few wires is ok as long as partial strands dont stick out. Try stripping the 12 ga wire with the 10 ga hole to see if that helps.
    Otherwise, carefully cut into the insulation with a sharp knife going around and around the wire. Eventually you should be able to twist off the end section of insulation (which will also nicely twist the wire strands for you).
     
  7. Adam_S

    Adam_S Producer

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    just to see if i'm getting this right for visualization.

    the wire doesn't go through the backs of the banana plugs but the stripped wire first goes through the side hole into the end that plugs into the binding posts?
     
  8. Bob McElfresh

    Bob McElfresh Producer

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    For the Dual Bananas: The back end of these plugs have a shallow hole for .. another banana to plug into. This is NOT for the wire (there is nothing to grab onto the wire).

    With the single bananas, the wire goes into the back end. Folding the copper strands back over the outside, then screwing down the top clamps the wires. No tools or skill required.
     

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