Austin DIY HT Projects (1 Viewer)

[Hank Frankenberg]

Jonathan is correct. Prime it (I recommend Kilz brand) first. If you really want a quality gloss paint job, you're going to have to invest the hours and labor. I used that spray paint that's called Fleckstone (I think) that has a thick, rough texture with the look of stone. It does come in colors other than the grey that I used. If you decide against gloss paint, check out the other stone colors at Lowes and Home Depot. Also, there's enamel spray paint with texture, like the Rustoleum hammered metal look. If you stay with gloss paint, be sure to get 600, 800 and 1,000 grit 3M Wet-or Dry paper to wet sand with. Use plenty of water and don't apply much pressure when sanding.

 

[mike_decock]

How about using fabric? Just create a "sock" like a lot of the DefTech speakers. It would probably cost about the same as paint (2-3 yards of fabric) and would be much less labor-intensive.

-Mike...

 

[Jeff Meininger]

I did kilz it (kilz is great stuff!) and dry-sand it with 330 grit before starting my layers and layers and layers of paint. I don't think I dry-sanded long enough, though, because I gave up when I ran out of sandpaper rather than going back to Home Depot for a 3rd time that day. Haste makes waste. The wet-sanding and finer grit sandpaper sounds like the way to go.
I did a rough coat of kilz on the tube (which is what you see in the picture) just so that no text would show through the light-colored fabric I'll be covering it with. So luckily I don't have to go through all of the effort for painting the tube, but the top cap and baseplate do need some work.
Jonathan, Hank: The wet-sanding sounds like a plan. Thanks!
Hank: I used some Super 77 spray adhesive to apply the poly batting last night. That's the best stuff EVER. I've heard an unsubstantiated rumor, though, that 3M is changing the formula in a way that will make it no longer safe for use on white foam or perhaps expanded propylene foam. Say it isn't so! My primary use for 3M super 77 is for building these: www.zagi.com
Mike: tell me about it. I did a test-fit of my sock, which took about 10 seconds, and looks great. Perhaps more subtle than crushed velvet, but nice nonetheless. My sock only covers the actual tube, though, so the finish on the endcaps remains a chore.

 

[JeffTodd]

Just a quick question about polyfill. Is it necessary to put polyfill in my sonosub? Is this something I would have to judge for myself once its all complete? I have a 4^3ft SVS tube, 22hz with a 4"diameter port.

Is it just sort of a standard that people will roll a layer of polyfill onto the walls?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jeff Meininger]

Yeah, the layer of batting on the walls of a ported sub is pretty much a "standard".
I've read lots of reasons for why lining with poly batting might help. "Reduces boominess" was one of the many things I read, so I jumped on it. A thin layer of batting on the wall of your sub isn't going to change the alignment in a significant way, so it really can't hurt. Stuffing the sub with wads of polyfill WILL change the alignment in a significant way, though. That's probably not what you want to do.
I say go for it. But then again, I'm a total newb.

 

[JeffTodd]

Jeff,
I will more than likey pick up some batting in that case and stick it to the walls. I just have to find a way to power it now. It sucks being patient. But I guess a few weeks isn't that long of a wait to pick up a plate amp. Wait, yes, that is a long time!

 

[Harlan B]

Jeff, your enclosure looks really good!

How did you make the baseplate? where did you get that idea?

I like how it looks...

Harlan

 

[Jeff Meininger]

Jeff: yeah, patience sucks. I now have a nearly complete enclosure sitting here. The GOOD thing about having no driver and amp, though, is that I'm not tempted to "hurry" the build process. For example, I permanently installed the top endcap last night with liquid nails (and some real nails). The package says that it takes 24 hours for liquid nails to fully dry, and that's how long I'm going to give it. Those 24 hours would be all the more agonizing if there was a driver sitting on my desk, just waiting to be installed.
By the way, I really like liquid nails. Less runny than wood glue.
Harlan: Thanks! I made the baseplate by simply routing a 5th circle out of the MDF, the same diameter as the top and bottom "cap" layers. I used some 1-1/8" dowel to make 3 legs which are permanently fixed to the bottom endcap with wood glue and screws. Then I screwed some "hanger bolts" (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findpro...0bolts&sku=373) into the bottom of the legs. I drilled out a recess into the bottom of the baseplate big enough for a nut to be screwed onto the bolt but still be "flush" to the bottom of the baseplate, securing it to the legs and bottom endcap. I put a felt circle between the legs and baseplate to make the join look better. I'll take more pictures of this assembly later, since a picture is worth a thousand words.
I got the idea for the baseplate from various sonosub websites... it's a fairly popular option. I'm not sure if other people go for a "removable" base-plate, though... I just made that up as I went along. I mainly walked down the fasteners aisle at Home Depot until I found something that looked like it would work (hanger bolts).

 

[Harlan B]

Hey everyone, just an update on my project:
I got my 10' of 24" Sonotube today...
I'm still waiting for my Tempest and AVA250...
Dan Wiggins thinks the design is right on... and the port lengths are correct... (I'm doing patman's design: http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub2.html)
I start construction on wednesday
I'll only need 45" or so: so if anyone wants 5' of it (24" wide): drop me an email... we can work something out. (I'm close to Austin, and Houston too...)
Harlan

 

[Jeff Meininger]

So, Harlan, how went your first day of sub-building? Any tales to tell or pictures to post?

 

[Harlan B]

Thanks for asking Jeff.

I actually struggled a bit to cut the massive 24" sonotube: but I got it done. That was all I got done: because I havn't found a Plunge Router I like that is affordable yet...

Also, I realized too late that the tube isn't sonotube brand: it's Shepler's brand... but I don't think that'll matter.

I'll keep ya'll posted and get pictures when I can.

Harlan

 

[Jeff Meininger]

Shepler's sources their tube from Sonoco, so it's sonotube. Same applies for tube from "Texas Contractors Supply". These are the only two retailers in town that Sonoco deals with directly.
Did you get strange stringy things when cutting your tube?
http://boxybutgood.com/temp/sonosub/SubDAY1-002.jpg
What did you use to cut it?

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

Harlan, hang in there - you'll be rewarded with one heck of a value subwoof. I used 24" diameter tube also for my Tempest and it's an imposing size.

Jeff, I think that strange stuff is wax. The tubes have a coating of wax on the inside to waterpfoof them. If you're going to glue batting to the inside, you need to peel that wax off - it's easy.

 

[Jeff Meininger]

Oops.. too late. I already glued the batting in place without peeling off the inner layer. 3M Super 77. It seems to be stuck in place pretty well, though. It takes quite a bit of effort to peel it from the tube wall, so I'm not worried.
An update on my project: I have soldered some 12GA speaker wire to my binding post terminals. I suck at soldering. I couldn't get the solder to stick to the test leads I used as solder tabs. I had to really sand the heck out of 'em. I was suprised to find that they were copper under a thin coating of silver/gray metal. I wrapped some (3M brand) electrical tape around one of the terminals just in case wood filler, caulk, or liquid nails was at all conductive. I filled the hole with liquid nails (to about half-depth). I had originally filled it with wood filler, but as it dried I noticed that it was cracking (shrinking). I envisioned the wad of wood filler breaking loose under vibration and rattling around in there. I had to scoop it all out and pick away the dried bits with a dental tool the next day. I'm going to give the liquid nails some more drying time, then spread a thin layer of caulk over it just for good measure. Anyway, either liquid nails is not conductive, or my tape job held up because the multimeter says "infinite ohms". I'm so close now... come on October, you can't get here fast enough.
Side note: does anyone reading this know Mark Hayenga's phone number? I haven't been able to get in touch with him by Email, HTF private message, or ICQ.

 

[Jonathan DA]

Jeff, Mark is notoriously hard to get a hold of. And to think he gives me crap for being a curmudgeon; I'll have him contact you.

 

[Jeff Meininger]

Jonathan: Thanks!

[Edit: he dropped me an email. Thanks!]

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

My DIY apprentice Emjay (age 4) wanted RED speakers. They're almost ready for his critique. There's one picture on the second page of my Geocities web site:
http://www.geocities.com/hankbond1/index
I wish I could just post a couple of pictures instead of having to put them on that site - the resolution is low. The red color is a bit off on the photo - the cabinets are a dark, but real, red.

 

[Jeff Meininger]

My sub is finished! Rather than start two threads on two forums, I posted it to the DIY forum.
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htfo...hreadid=100562

 

[Harlan B]

My 290L 24" Sonotube Subwoofer project is starting to bum me out...
First, does anyone have ~21" of 6"diameter PVC for my port? I really don't want to buy 10feet of PVC... but I will. Otherwise, anyone know any place in Austin that'll sell 21" worth?
Next, I had a problem this weekend... After getting my MDF all glued and cut (~2hrs work), only then did I bother to measure my "24inch" sonotube. It's actually 26", with a 25.5" inner diameter.
So, I had 2 perfectly cut (well mostly) circles, and a top cap that slipped right into the top of the tube. Useless.
I've decided to chalk that 16$ MDF board to practice. It was good practice...I'm getting good cutting circles with the router.
I'm off to buy 2-27"x27" and 2-26"x26" MDF pieces... Wish me luck for next weekend,
Harlan
p.s. It's killing me having the driver and amp sitting there, and not being able to hook it all up!!!

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

Harlan, sorry to read about your diameter problem. That's very strange, since in the last couple of years of reading about sonosubs, I don't recall a diameter difference of more than 1/8" or 1/4" between marked and actual diameter. Is your tube marked? Did you ask for 24" diameter and they handed you what you have? They may have made a mistake. If you're going to keep it, re-calculate your numbers - you may want to shorten the tube to make up for the larger volume than you thought you had.
Hang in there - it'll be worth your efforts.