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Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Sebastian, Oct 11, 2002.
If so, How did you like it?
PE flared port
I use it, I love it.
I just installed mine yesterday. Two helpful hints:
1. ABS glue/cement (referenced in the instruction manual) doesn't exist. Okay, maybe it exists, but it is not readily available at Home Depot and Lowes type stores. I went all over the place to find it, and I found none.
2. If you use epoxy, get the 4-6 minute kind rather than the 90 second kind. 90 seconds is not enough time to mix it together, apply it to the part, and assemble the joint. Other people have reported using PVC cement with good results.
I ended up using hot-melt glue. I haven't heard of anyone else doing that, but I was absolutely NOT going to wait 1 more day to get my sub up and running. No way, no how. I don't recommend using hot-melt, though. It's too thick and bulky... it doesn't allow you to get a really smooth joint between the flare and tube. I used hot-melt as "caulk" on the outside of the joint to ensure an airtight seal, though.
Anyway, the port works great in my EBS shiva sub. I detect no port noise at all, where my old sub was making CRAZY port noise.
I used two in my Tempest. Work great and look great too. I didn't even glue mine, I used black electrical tape with a few wraps around the tube so I could remove the ports if I chose to make a different enclosure later.
Made many subs w/ those and the Adire flared ports. They look to be the same to me. I use PVC cement found in the plumbing section. Easy to use - just wipe a little around the edge and push it on w/ a twist (1/4 turn?). Make sure it's where you want it because you only have about 30-60 seconds before it locks tight.
On Sunosub III, I also used black electrical tape to join two pieces of the sections together on one end. And I applied compressible foam weatherstripping to the insides of the flared port.
I prefer this port to the Aeroport since there are screw holes on the flange.
I used duct tape. :b
I use hot glue for vents and lots of other stuff. The trick is to keep a heat gun nearby and apply some heat to warm things up before glueing, especially larger items like flared ports. The heat gun will also allow disassembly rather quickly.
Duct tape, Jack? I'm starting to worry about you.
Duct tape joke:
One guy shows another guy how to make a toolbelt out of duct tape. First he lays some duct tape down on a workbench, sticky side up. He next takes a hammer and some other tools and lays them on the tape. He next takes another layer of duct tape and presses it down firmly over the tools and the first layer of tape, picks it up and tapes it around his waist. His friend comments that he'll never be able to get the tools out of the toolbelt because of the tape. "Who needs tools? I've got duct tape",he replies.
check out the port tub 4X4 flaired port they are a $1.09 that would be $2.20 and if you are going with more than i tube it is cheaper it is $5 for a 8 ft piece of thin wall pvc so if you make more than one the saveing get alot higher
i would link to port but it allways comes up as a restor
As an aside, does anyone know what the outer diameter of the Parts Express 4" port kit is? Is it 4.25" or 4.5"?
I don't have mine in front of me, but it's much larger than that, the center tube itself is 4". This is from the Adire site, and I'm almost sure it's the same kit as theirs:
This sort of shows the flaring of the port kit that Jack is talking about.
I think Greg is asking what is the OD of the actual tube, not including the flares.
If he wasn't I would like to know, the OD of the port w/o the flares.
The port tube is pretty thin. I'd guess it's only 1/8" thick material, which would make the OD around 4.25".
yeah, the OD of the tube. Although in my calculations it doesn't make that much difference in enclosure size either way.
The parts express flared port is the exact same as the one sold by Adire Audio as well as Madisound . They are all made by Precision Sound Products. Madisound and Parts express both sell the 4" model for around $12.50. I've used both of these and they are identical. I've not used the Adire FP-4 port, but it appears to be the same port only a lot more expensive at over $20.00 and is also made by Precision Sound Products. Coincidentally the ports used by SVS are also the exact same with the only difference being they use cardboard for their center tubes , the flares and rings are identical. I custom tuned my 25-31 cs subs to 22 Hz by lenghthening the ports using some port kits I had ordered from Madisound a while back. I prefer the look of the plastic center tubes to the cardboard ones . I glue my ports . I prime them with Oatey purple primer to etch the ports and then glue them with Oatey brand all purpose cement, which works with both pvc and abs pipe, available at Lowes. You should make your cutout the size of the inner flare which is smaller than the outside flare . That way you can install or remove the port with it assembled. Remember that the effective length of the port is 1" shorter than the assembled port , so for example if you use the full center tube you wind up with a 17" long port but it actually functions as a 16" port because of the larger than 4" diameter of the flares must be taken into account.I'm not knocking SVS , I love my subs and since they were both puchased B stock at substantial savings they understandably do not offer custom tuning at no extra charge . It would have cost me over $60.00 with shipping and sales tax to order the custom tuned ports for my subs. It only cost me $ 25.00 for the madisound ports which I already had, as well as the glue and primer which was left over from a plumbing job.