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Anyone upgrade from SVS subs from 20 years ago? (1 Viewer)

Ronald Epstein

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Ron, I'm trying to remember if SVS had a multi-driver cylinder sub, because I'm thinking maybe they did at one point. Do you know if yours is? Otherwise, the big one I remember was something like a PC16-42. But they also had ones with external amps.

The thing is, you're happy with your sub, so just stick with it. It's the reason I'm so hesitant to replace my PB12 Plus/2. It has some limitations, but in all it's pretty great. I just think I want a big, dual, sealed model for better control during the most demanding stuff.

I take it you don't have connections with Tom V (co-founder of SVS) at PowerSound.


Connections? I don't know. It has been forever since the original founders even interacted with our site. Parker knew Tom Volhandel. I knew Ron Stimpson.

This is a photo of my sub. Have no idea what the model is, the amp capacity, etc. I know nothing about speakers. Not my specialized field.

I don't know what kind of shape this baby is in. Ever since I calibrated it with my Denon, it's not as boomy as I used to like. However, calibration takes priority over personal preferences.

I know I used to have the sub running "hot" in the old days. It "popped" a few times. Not sure that did any damage. It still seems to work.

One of these days I am going have to turn it up a bit to see if it still is capable of rocking the room.


Click on photo for larger images.

IMG_0938.jpeg IMG_0941.jpeg
 

George_W_K

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What made you decide for the TV36 instead of the V36... well, I was going to ask that, since I didn't see a reason for one over the other, but now I see it. The TV has a larger cabinet, so I guess it's tuned lower, which is backed up by the specs. If you're gonna go for something like that, might as well go for broke.

Exactly the reason, yes. Although I like the look of the front vent on the V36.
 

JohnRice

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Connections? I don't know. It has been forever since the original founders even interacted with our site. Parker knew Tom Volhandel. I knew Ron Stimpson.

This is a photo of my sub. Have no idea what the model is, the amp capacity, etc. I know nothing about speakers. Not my specialized field.

I don't know what kind of shape this baby is in. Ever since I calibrated it with my Denon, it's not as boomy as I used to like. However, calibration takes priority over personal preferences.

I know I used to have the sub running "hot" in the old days. It "popped" a few times. Not sure that did any damage. It still seems to work.

One of these days I am going have to turn it up a bit to see if it still is capable of rocking the room.


Click on photo for larger images.

View attachment 68610 View attachment 68611
How big is your room?
 

JohnRice

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OK, Ron, your sub appears to be the 16-46PC (Plus?). The strength of that sub is extension, aka: how low it goes. It's weakness is output, aka: how loud it goes. Your room isn't particularly large, so I'm guessing space is a big consideration. I suspect you like the small footprint of the cylinder sub. Your co-owner Dave Upton is a huge proponent of dual subs, and I think you might consider a second SVS cylinder sub, if you want to upgrade. That's in addition to the one you have. They only appear to make two, and the PC-2000 Pro just won't be up to the task of mating with the one you have. So, that leaves the PC-4000. Then you'd need to plan a good location to start with for trying to integrate the two. Dave would be the one to ask about that, probably, but I can give suggestions. Sub placement is extremely critical, even though room correction can fix some things. It still can't make a horrible location into a good one.
 

Ronald Epstein

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John,

Thank you so much for taking the time to evaluate my current sub and for giving me a suggestion.

I am going to play around with the sub first, to see if I can get more recognition out of it. As I mentioned, ever since I calibrated it with my system I don't notice the low end as much as I used to.

Those cylinder subs are pretty pricey so I want to be sure I absolutely desire one before considering a purchase.
 

JohnRice

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Ron, I notice you have two channels connected to your subwoofer. Is there a particular reason for that? You have the Denon X8500 don't you? Sometimes people are under the impression that connecting to both inputs gives them "more" subwoofer, but that's not the case. In fact, if you have activated two subs in your receiver, and are feeding both outputs into your single sub, there's the possibility your are actually degrading your bass.

As far as after running calibration, the receiver will set the "correct" sub level, but virtually everyone wants more bass than what's "correct". You can always go into the channel level settings on the receiver and just increase the sub a few dB until you get to what you like. If ever hear a "CHUNK" sound from your sub during heavy bass passages, you went too far.
 

Ronald Epstein

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Ron, I notice you have two channels connected to your subwoofer. Is there a particular reason for that? You have the Denon X8500 don't you? Sometimes people are under the impression that connecting to both inputs gives them "more" subwoofer, but that's not the case. In fact, if you have activated two subs in your receiver, and are feeding both outputs into your single sub, there's the possibility your are actually degrading your bass.

As far as after running calibration, the receiver will set the "correct" sub level, but virtually everyone wants more bass than what's "correct". You can always go into the channel level settings on the receiver and just increase the sub a few dB until you get to what you like. If ever hear a "CHUNK" sound from your sub during heavy bass passages, you went too far.


John,

It's a simple matter of ignorance for me. I am not a sub guy. The Denon receiver had one single sub output. The sub had two inputs. So, I simply took a single RCA cable and fed it into a dual adapter.

Seemed to work. If I should do something else please let me know.

Yes, I am gonna turn the sub up a few DB as I have been a bit unhappy since I calibrated. I do have bass/butt kickers in my chairs so that makes up for things.

Let me ask you...

What do you think of loud POPS? I know in earlier years I had something set high and my sub would pop very loudly. Happened a few times. It didn't seem to ruin the speaker, but as I said, I am just not one to know.
 

JohnRice

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John,

It's a simple matter of ignorance for me. I am not a sub guy. The Denon receiver had one single sub output. The sub had two inputs. So, I simply took a single RCA cable and fed it into a dual adapter.

Seemed to work. If I should do something else please let me know.

Yes, I am gonna turn the sub up a few DB as I have been a bit unhappy since I calibrated. I do have bass/butt kickers in my chairs so that makes up for things.

Let me ask you...

What do you think of loud POPS? I know in earlier years I had something set high and my sub would pop very loudly. Happened a few times. It didn't seem to ruin the speaker, but as I said, I am just not one to know.
Ron, running one output to two inputs isn't a problem, but it also doesn't actually accomplish anything. So, no harm done. Often, one of the inputs (usually the left) is marked "LFE" and you just use that one. What I was concerned about was that you had activated two subs on the receiver and was running them both to a single sub. That would introduce potential problems. You aren't doing that, so there's really no need to change anything.

Those loud pops could be the driver bottoming out, either that or the amp clipping. Both are something to avoid at all costs. They might not have damaged the sub, but eventually they will cause severe damage. I always think of a driver bottoming out as more of a "chunk" sound. It's the sound of the cone actually hitting it's physical limitation. A more electronic sounding "pop" is probably the amp clipping. Both bad, bad, bad and signs over over-driving the sub.

Looking closer at that sub, I have to say it's achilles heel is the amp, which looks to be under powered. I'm pretty sure that's from the early days of SVS (you said it's a prototype) and they would have been dealing with off-the-shelf hardware. The amp just has a figure-eight power cord and a 2A fuse, which means the amp doesn't have much power. That doesn't change the fact you are happy with it and I don't want to dampen that, but subs have progressed significantly. That's also why they're so much more expensive. the drivers and amps available these days are magnitudes better.
 

Ronald Epstein

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Ron, running one output to two inputs isn't a problem, but it also doesn't actually accomplish anything. So, no harm done. Often, one of the inputs (usually the left) is marked "LFE" and you just use that one. What I was concerned about was that you had activated two subs on the receiver and was running them both to a single sub. That would introduce potential problems. You aren't doing that, so there's really no need to change anything.

Those loud pops could be the driver bottoming out, either that or the amp clipping. Both are something to avoid at all costs. They might not have damaged the sub, but eventually they will cause severe damage. I always think of a driver bottoming out as more of a "chunk" sound. It's the sound of the cone actually hitting it's physical limitation. A more electronic sounding "pop" is probably the amp clipping. Both bad, bad, bad and signs over over-driving the sub.

Looking closer at that sub, I have to say it's achilles heel is the amp, which looks to be under powered. I'm pretty sure that's from the early days of SVS (you said it's a prototype) and they would have been dealing with off-the-shelf hardware. The amp just has a figure-eight power cord and a 2A fuse, which means the amp doesn't have much power. That doesn't change the fact you are happy with it and I don't want to dampen that, but subs have progressed significantly. That's also why they're so much more expensive. the drivers and amps available these days are magnitudes better.


The problem right now is the sub that is recommended is another cylinder at about $1,800. That's pretty expensive.

I don't want to go with something less expensive that would underperform in that room.

John, once again, if I have not said this enough --- thank you for your help.
 

JohnRice

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Glad to help, Ron. Subs are expensive. That's just the way it is. I would say that for a single sub that would be a substantial improvement over what you have, something like the PowerSound V1512 is something you'd say "Wow" about. It should surpass that SVS cylinder that's considerably more expensive. It would certainly match it.

There is so much to chose from. That sub George ordered is $3,200 and weighs about 275 lbs, if I remember correctly. :D
 
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George_W_K

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Glad to help, Ron. Subs are expensive. That's just the way it is. I would say that for a single sub that would be a substantial improvement over what you have, something like the PowerSound V1512 is something you'd say "Wow" about. It might even surpass that SVS cylinder that's considerably more expensive. It would certainly match it.

There is so much to chose from. That sub George ordered is $3,200 and weighs about 275 lbs, if I remember correctly. :D

"ONLY" 211LBS. Haha. The TV42 is 277lbs.
 

George_W_K

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I've had my TV36IPAL for a week now. Well, tomorrow will be a week, but close enough.
20200302_215346.jpg

20200302_221009.jpg


Even had a sign made up.
20200305_181124.jpg


But, I still have not been able to listen to it. It has a bad amp. Tom from PSA sent me a replacement right away but it's stuck in Fedex hell. They made an "attempt" to deliver yesterday with someone home, but said no one was home. So I wasn't about to play that game and switched it up for the package to be delivered to the local Fedex Office store. Well, it didn't show up today so now I'm waiting until Monday. Any problems I've ever had in my years with shipping, it has been Fedex.
20200302_221009.jpg
 

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