Anyone modeled the JBL SUB1500 for DIY?

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by KyleGS, Feb 18, 2004.

  1. KyleGS

    KyleGS Second Unit

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    I'm having a hard time finding a good design for the JBL SUB1500 at partsexpress. All I see is 3-5cf sealed for a smooth curve with good extension. Anyone else modeled this up or tried out a DIY design with this sub?
     
  2. DarrenK

    DarrenK Extra

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    Hi,

    Its a very interesting driver, and has a lot of design features to make it one of the lowest-distortion drivers out there. Think of it like a 15" version of the Peerless XLS driver.

    From my analysis, in a home environment it would be easiest to implement in an EBS type ported alignment. Maybe 3-4 cu. ft. or so tuned to around 22 Hz. This should get you strong output into the mid 20's while keeping cone excursion down at those home theater rumble frequencies. Keep in mind that the F3 still models fairly high, but once it is low-passed, the effective F3 will probably be down in the 20's.

    Its nice that in a ported box it actually needs some port lengths that are fairly reasonable. Though, I guess if you're planning on feeding it up towards 1000 watts, you'll probably still need about a 6" diameter by 36" long port. A slot port would probably be the way to go.

    I think in all the commercial designs where it was used, the driver was in a relatively small sealed box with a lot of boost and a large amplifier. The old Revel Ultima Sub 15 used this configuration, though the amplifier that went with it by itself sold for something like $10,000. But, I think it was about an 800 watt mono amplifier.

    One of the other great applications for this driver would be for making some small bass bins for a portable DJ setup. You could get tons of output down to 40 Hz or so in a small 2 or 3 cu. ft. ported box. Of course, the driver itself weighs about 40 pounds, so it wouldn't be quite as portable in terms of weight. But, in terms of size, it would be quite nice.

    So, that's some ideas on the driver, hope you find a design that you like.

    Darren
     
  3. Marv

    Marv Stunt Coordinator

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    I would put it in a 2cuft sealed box with an L.T. at 20hz and Q of ~0.8 with a 12db HP filter at 15hz Q of 0.707, it should take all 800w to reach xmax. But that's me, I'm into small subs now because "I HAVE TO". Some how the sub volume always works it way louder, hmmmmmm. I figure about 105~108db of bass is all my sub can make before I get complaints. So I'm now trying out bass shakers to get my bass where I "FEEL" it needs to be.

    -Marv
     
  4. KyleGS

    KyleGS Second Unit

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    Thanks- great info.

    I'll keep playing with it.
    I've got room for an 80-110L box with two 3in flared ports and no driver. I've got plenty of power (up to 1000w) but I am trying to find a driver. I looked at the Shiva but it is out of stock for a few weeks and the Titanic II is back up in price.

    110L (3.85cf) with full length 3in ports (flared) = ~23hz tuning.

    I know this driver is >$$ but.. would it work in my enclosure? BTW I haven't cut down the ports yet.
     

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