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Anyone gone mirrorless? (1 Viewer)

Scott Merryfield

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It looks like you are getting some good results with the EOS M, Patrick. How responsive is the auto focus system, and are the ergonomics easy to get used to coming from using a dSLR?
 

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Interesting stuff. Flaming cat o nine tails? That's gotta be an insurance premium! =)Not sure how to say this constructively Pat but the harsh shadows and almost blacked out backgrounds on some of those aren't really working for me. And trust me I've struggled finding looks in those situations that look natural. I think the shadows are really calling attention to themselves tho, moreso than stuff I've seen from you in the past. Have you tried using a simple bounce card on camera instead? I know I've mentioned it in the past but I really like the look I get from a cheap Honl barn door at 45 degrees...
 

Patrick Sun

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Scott Merryfield said:
It looks like you are getting some good results with the EOS M, Patrick. How responsive is the auto focus system, and are the ergonomics easy to get used to coming from using a dSLR?
The M uses a Contrast Detection AF, and it's okay, depending on which AF mode you choose, but it's kinda neat to just touch the screen where you want the AF zone to focus on the most, and the camera does its best to focus in that zone, I think I read there are 31 zones in if you put it in the proper AF mode.

Due to the CDAF system in place, the M doesn't allow you to use the AF-assist light in Canon speedlites. The IR AF-assist is for PDAF (Phase-detect AF) system only. I found that out when I tried using the Yongnuo YN-622c on the M, but the YN-622c's focus-assist light would never come on when attached to the M's hotshoe, and it's due to it being CDAF.

Don't expect to do rapid fire sports shooting (though there is a mode to shoot multiple shots if you hold down the shutter button, not recommended if you're also triggering a flash, but without a flash, it'll be okay).

The ergonomics are similar to other Canon dSLRs in terms of menus, so the learning curve is shallow, but it'll take a little time to resist the urge to change A/V/ISO with the non-existent wheels on the little camera, and rely on the touchscreen or the back panel wheel for some settings when possible. Plus, with no viewfinder, you have to compose like you were in "live-view" on a dSLR.
 

Patrick Sun

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Sam Posten said:
Interesting stuff. Flaming cat o nine tails? That's gotta be an insurance premium! =)Not sure how to say this constructively Pat but the harsh shadows and almost blacked out backgrounds on some of those aren't really working for me. And trust me I've struggled finding looks in those situations that look natural. I think the shadows are really calling attention to themselves tho, moreso than stuff I've seen from you in the past. Have you tried using a simple bounce card on camera instead? I know I've mentioned it in the past but I really like the look I get from a cheap Honl barn door at 45 degrees...
It's a stylistic choice to kill the ambient background "noise" inside the convention "halls" when I just want to light up the cosplayer. Otherwise, it looks like any other photo that is shot in "Auto" or "P". I wanted some stark contrast in the shots, while also not having to contend with a lot of dorking around with white balance issues caused by mixed WB in background and foreground in post-processing phase later. :D

If I can help it, I try to avoid shooting with the flash in the hot shoe anymore, even for walking around hallway photos, I just find those type of photos with on-axis flash, or even the "bounce it off the ceiling" (good luck in a convention hall) look to be boring and "safe" and "uninteresting". But I totally get that not everyone is going to like the "kill the ambient" look, and I appreciate the feedback.

Also, I know I can shoot that creamy bokeh look all day long with the fast glass I have in the lens lineup. I got that shot in my bag, though I feel it's overdone, but cosplayers love that look of being isolated from the melted background. I know I can shoot a balanced shot (expose for the background, light up the subject in the foreground properly), I got that shot, but it's a "meh" shot for me. Now I just like to play around with moving the key light around for hallway shots. It keeps me interested in the shot. I don't always pull it off, and I give myself very little time to get the shot off (hate holding up the cosplayers), so it's a fun little game with some time constraints.
 

Scott Merryfield

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Patrick Sun said:
The ergonomics are similar to other Canon dSLRs in terms of menus, so the learning curve is shallow, but it'll take a little time to resist the urge to change A/V/ISO with the non-existent wheels on the little camera, and rely on the touchscreen or the back panel wheel for some settings when possible. Plus, with no viewfinder, you have to compose like you were in "live-view" on a dSLR.
With the lower price, I was briefly tempted to pick up an "M", but it was concern over things like this that kept me restrained. When we were hiking around Glacier N.P. last month, I got a little tired of carrying two cameras (5D3 & 7D), so on one hike where I was primarily going to shoot mountain goats I just took the 7D + 100-400L to hike light. Of course, we came to a spot where I really wanted to take some landscape shots, and I had to resort to using my wife's Powershot S100. I wasn't real happy with the results, although some of that was because I wasn't familiar enough with the camera to figure out how to use it in manual shooting mode. It would be nice to have a high quality pocketable camera for those occasions, but they are not common enough occurrences for me to spend a lot of money. Most of the time, if I want to travel light, the 5D3 + 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens will suffice -- it's just not something I can fit in my pocket.
 

Patrick Sun

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Many people find that for the leisurely stuff, the M is more than adequate, and takes up very little room, and it pretty light (if you stick with the two EF-M lenses, the EF-M 22mm F/2.0 lens and the EF-M 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 lens), enough to leave their big bodies at home. But battery life isn't too hot (maybe 150-200 shots per charged battery, but the 3rd party batteries being 2 for $20 makes it a non-issue for me.
 

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Patrick Sun said:
But I totally get that not everyone is going to like the "kill the ambient" look, and I appreciate the feedback.
Cool, glad you took it in the spirit it was meant. I knew there was no way I could say it without being direct, hoped that the positive message came through over just sounding like a jerk.For me the 'kill the ambient' rings "deer in headlights" but I get that it's a choice you are making and if it works for you aesthetically then that's all that matters!
 

Patrick Sun

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Of course, I may never shoot like that again. But when there are so many distracting background elements in convention halls, and you're not shooting for bokeh (which doesn't really solve your white-balance issue from shot-to-shot as you move around the venue) and you want to pop some good light on your subjects' faces, killing ambient makes more sense if you have hundreds of shots to post-process. I shaved off 3 weeks of post-process time (working on them in the night-time) from last year's batch of photos.
 

Sam Posten

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Well, how about just gauss blurring out the backgrounds then? It's not gonna give you cream that a real wide open lens will and you'll need to select a safe zone and put a gradient on it, but that might be a good compromise.
 

ManW_TheUncool

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If you want to be arty (or just experiment for a diff look), maybe try some slow sync flash and blur out the ambient background w/ some camera motion perhaps. If I were shooting so much (w/ flash) at such events, I'd definitely look for some opps and try a handful (or more) to go w/ the tons of sure snaps. Other things to try could be looking for strong backlight (like spotlights) and shadows for different opps/looks/stylization -- or maybe even create your own w/ your speedlight fired remotely, etc. waaaay off from camera. _Man_Sent via HTF mobile app
 

Citizen87645

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Well, how about just gauss blurring out the backgrounds then? It's not gonna give you cream that a real wide open lens will and you'll need to select a safe zone and put a gradient on it, but that might be a good compromise.
That would probably cut into his attempt to minimize time in post. And I'm not really a fan of that guassian filter look either.

Generally speaking, I'm fine with seeing elements of the convention in the background (albeit it minimized by shallow DOF or composition). If someone (photographer or subject) wants studio style shots, it's not really the best time or place to do it. Kudos to those who can isolate the subject that much to get close to that look, but regardless viewers know where it's being taken.
 

Patrick Sun

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Realize I'm shooting one-handed. Go ahead, try shooting one-handed a few hundred times a day. The other hand is holding a speedlite off to the side and up. The M is small enough, without feeling unwieldy, like my dSLR does, when shooting one-handed.
 

Scott Merryfield

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Patrick Sun said:
Realize I'm shooting one-handed. Go ahead, try shooting one-handed a few hundred times a day. The other hand is holding a speedlite off to the side and up. The M is small enough, without feeling unwieldy, like my dSLR does, when shooting one-handed.
You need a rig like the one in the picture Cameron posted. I bet that's fun to walk around with all day long! :lol:
 

Patrick Sun

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Scott Merryfield said:
You need a rig like the one in the picture Cameron posted. I bet that's fun to walk around with all day long! :lol:
I bet going to the restroom is an adventure all in itself...
 

Sam Posten

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