Any SUggestions on Ethernet/Powerline Hook Ups?

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by rbeidl, Oct 29, 2011.

  1. rbeidl

    rbeidl Auditioning

    Oct 28, 2011
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    I have a system that includes:
    1. Sony LED 240Hz 3D KDL-55NX810 , and a
    2. Yamaha Aventage RX-A3010
    3. Panasonic Bluray (but not 3D) player, and a [*] Sony PS3 (for 3D).
    All of these components, including my PS3 (which we use for 3D movies only) have hard wired and wireless Ethernet (except for the receiver which is ONLY hard wire, and which we just ordered). The wireless is not always completely smooth and reliable, and with the new receiver having only hard wire, I need to hard wire the system for Internet access and DLNA. So, I bought a 5 port D-Link Gigabit switch for my A/V setup downstairs in the Family Room. My router, cable modem (AT&T U-verse), and computer server are upstairs. I need to link my D-Link Switch (which has all of my AV equipment connected to it, to my Apple Router upstairs. I want to do it via hard wire! I have two choices. I can either use a:
    1. new high-end Powerline HD DLP series AV setup, like the D-Link DHP AV 500, that is recommended, or
    2. run a Cat6 Cable of 50' between the Router and Switch, but that means having an exposed cable in a number of places
    The second option does not thrill my wife, because of the exposed cable, but it is easier and much less expensive (I already have the D-Link Gigabit Switch, but would have to get a different switch and receiver and transmitter, about $300, for the Powerline setup). I assume the second option would have a better quality connection. However, I do NOT have much experience with the Powerline HD setups, but they seem to have a good reputation. I would be doing HD streaming of Audio AND video, but do not have a dedicated power outlet (which D-Link recommends). I would have to plug the Powerline unit into an outlet with the computer at the head-end, and into an outlet with the rest of my AV equipment on a surge-protected power strip at the other end. Any thoughts on this? Any experience? I am doing this to improve the wireless performance, so if it won't improve what we have, there's no reason to do it. Thanks.
  2. Alfonso_M

    Alfonso_M Second Unit

    Sep 25, 2000
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    I first would try to implement option 2 since you need a 'backbone' line to get to your D-link with potentially up to five devices connected with their require traffic load. You can use wire-molding across the baseboard to hide the cable, and install plastic surface mount telcom wall boxes at the ends to attach cat6 wallplates with connectors then patch from there... yes these installs take a bit of time, you may have to drill walls and carefully measure moldings before cutting and sticking if you want it to look good. If you have carpet, you might be able to hide the cat6 right at the walls' edge under the carpet, then use surface mount boxes and attach to baseboard hiding almost all the cable. As for the other choice, Since you have AT&T -Uverse already, locally AT&T uses the brand Asoka AC plug ins (85 Mbps) in their own installations, a friend with U-verse has three different LED/Plasma screens around the house all using these AC plugins to connect to the network/web; that day we did Blu ray firmware upgrades and watched a couple of hi-def trailers from Blu -ray discs pop-up menus and connected to Amazon service through a Panny Blu and watched a few free HD trailers too.. here are the links....

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