Any DIY speaker stand recommendations (must be sand fillable)

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by jeff lam, Dec 10, 2001.

  1. jeff lam

    jeff lam Screenwriter

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    I'm looking for some good quality stands and most of the good ones cost well over $200 pr. Anyone made some quality stands that can be filled or have high mass to them? They will be used for small DIY monitors but they are quality speakers (GR research AV1's). Any help or ideas will be appreciated.

    Thanks!

    BTW, I was looking for the previous post w/pics of someone who built his own stands that just looked awesome. It was a while back, anyone remember or have the thread handy?
     
  2. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Jeff, you might want to try the forum's "search" function...
     
  3. Mark Hayenga

    Mark Hayenga Supporting Actor

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    Parts Express has a nice set of stands for $100, they're 50lbs/pair and you can fill the post with sand. I've heard good feedback from people that have owned them. My only concern is the platform is a little wide for most bookshelf speakers.
     
  4. jeff lam

    jeff lam Screenwriter

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    Tried the search before I posted the first message but found nothing about that thread. I looked back a whole year.
     
  5. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Here's a link to a search on "stands".
     
  6. Vince Bray

    Vince Bray Stunt Coordinator

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    I made some stands that I like. Get some 6" cardboard carpet core from a carpet store. Make 3/4 plywood base, and cut the top piece to match the outline of the speaker's bottom exactly. Roundover the edges if you like, they look better. Now the tricky part. Rout a circular groove in the base and top the same width as the tube, so that the tube will slip into the groove and can be glued to be very solid. Also get some small pvc pipe about 1". Cut a hole the size of the outside of the pipe, too, but only cut part way through. Cut a hole all the way through the top and base the same as the inside diameter of the tube, so that the pvc will be trapped between the top and base when you glue it. Does this make sense?

    Now assemble the whole thing. Caulk the pvc to seal it, but glue the cardboard tube to the top and base. Now the inside can be filled with sand through another hole in the top plate, then glue a plug in after the sand goes in. Sterilize the sand in the oven. The speaker wire routes through the pvc pipe. Very nice. Finish to taste. I veneered the tube BEFORE assembly, and painted the whole thing semi-gloss black.

    If I was doing this again (i will one day) I would maybe use two tubes instead of just one, just for the look. You could then fill just one tube with sand, and use the other for the cable exclusively. They will be nice and heavy. Rap your nuckles on them and they make very little if any sound, just don't hit it too hard, ouch.

    Hope this makes sense...

    Vince
     
  7. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Vince, I did something like you described, but I used a 6" wide PVC pipe for the main "pole" and two 4" wide PVC pipes for the back "poles". This was leftovers from my various subwoofer projects.
    Click here to see a photo of both of them.
     
  8. Zbigniew

    Zbigniew Stunt Coordinator

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    Loewe has a nice wooden flower stands/tables, at $20 a piece, unfinished hardwood. I put my Active 40 on them, loaded stands with coffe table books ( $7 at Barne & Nobles or Borders, albums of picasso/degas etc), and I cannot move them now !

    _zjt
     
  9. Greg_R

    Greg_R Screenwriter

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    Glue a piece of PVC to the center of a 12"x8" board and fill the tube with sand. Once full, glue a board on the other end (to support the speaker). Add spikes & decorative touches as you see fit. You could also use multiple PVC pipes per stand (three vertical columns in a triangle looks nice).
     
  10. Hank Frankenberg

    Hank Frankenberg Cinematographer

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    For security, I would run a length of all-thread rod through the middle of the pipe to be filled with sand, particularly if it's a large diameter, which will be very heavy when filled. Route a recess in the top of the top plate and the bottom of the bottom (floor) plate to clear your washers and nuts.
     

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