About to order Quatro 15"/Amp

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by MikeGee, Aug 27, 2005.

  1. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Hey guys
    I'm finally deciding to order myself my subwoofer and plate amp so i could finish my audio portion of my HT.
    I'm going to most likely order this tommorow after i sleep on it tonite. Just wanted to know what you guys thought of me getting
    Dayton 15" Quatro
    250w plate amp/remote both from parts express.
    I'm looking into doing a ported box pretty much the same thing as this one i found searching through the HTF

    http:[email protected]/sub.htm

    for a port i'm thinking about just using a 4" wide piece of PVC i have sitting around after building my speaker stands.

    Does all this seem like it'd make a pretty decent sub?
    Oh and also..

    Since i live in Canada does anyone know what kinda shipping/brokerage i'd pay for the parts (around 225$ / 40lbs) Thats the only thing stopping me from ordering

    EDIT
    Sorry i forgot to also mention that the company Solen is located nearby to me so i could pickup a driver from them. Not sure if anyone here has heard of any of these companies...
    http://www.solen.ca/driver.htm
    no shipping on these items for me.
    Lemme know please guys
    Thanks
     
  2. Brad E

    Brad E Second Unit

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    I don't really know anything about the Quatro subs, but download WinISD Pro
    You enter the T/S parameters of the sub into the program along with box dimesions, ports etc. This will give you a good idea on how that sub will perform in that enclosure.

    For your ports take a look at this link.
    http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...ut/porttut.htm
    Just one option for finishing your ports.
     
  3. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    I built a sub with the Quatro 15 over the holidays. I love it. I used the 500 watt amp because it was on sale. The original plan was to use the 240 watt amp, which many recommend over the 250 watt amp. The box is about 5.5 cubic feet with a 4" Precision Port. Unfortunately, the only thing I can compare it with is a 10 ready made Dayton sub.
     
  4. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Hey Jack gotta couple questions for you if you have the time to answer
    Do you have any pics of your sub build?
    Could you give me the exact dimensions?
    Was it a difficult project to build?
    How did you insulate it?
    How did you brace it inside.
    Thanks!
     
  5. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    Hey Jack gotta couple questions for you if you have the time to answer

    I'm a sivul cervant. I have loads of time.

    Do you have any pics of your sub build?

    No. I'm no cabinet finisher. It's just painted mdf. You can see where the panels weren't cut exactly right. Fortunately, the Gorilla Glue expands to fill gaps. I caulked, too.

    Could you give me the exact dimensions?

    9/16 H X 22.5 D X 18.5 D The lumber yard cut one of my sices too short. It was supposed to be 31" tall. If I get some time tonight, I'll get youthe link for the program I used to come up with the dimensions.

    Was it a difficult project to build?

    I need to preface my answwer by telling you that I have been a sivul cervant for over 29 years and have a degree from a major university. In other words, I basically don't know how to do anything. Was it difficult to build? Not at all. I had the lumber yard cut the mdf to nearly my sxpecs. The biggest challenge was cutting the round holesfor the driver and port. If you're going sealed, that means only one circular hole. (The box should probably be smaller, too.) I used strapping tape and 25 lb weights to hold parts together while the glue dried. The amp and driver came with screws, so I didn't have to guess what size to get. I experimented on scrap to find which size bit to use. The Quatro comes with some type of rope caulk. The amp has a rubberized surface where it meets the cabinet. I got some extra with and connectors in case the wires from the amp weren't long eonugh. (They were, but just barely, so I used the wires, anyway.)

    How did you insulate it?

    I glued some chair cushion stuff that I found at a fabric store, but I don't think that stuffing is mandatory in a ported sub. I later put inthe stuffing from a throw pillow that was destroyed. Can't tell what difference it made.

    How did you brace it inside.

    One brace parallel to the front and back with holes to accomodate the port and wires formthe amp to the driver. also a smaller brace from the mid brace to the front. I should have used more because I've seen the top vibrate.

    Mind you, I got all of this from ONE sheet of mdf. That had alot to do with the dimensions I choose. A cube with the same internal volume would not have worked. Remember, you are not in a race. An extra day or even a week will not matter in the long run. Take your time and think things through. And DON'T BE AFRAID TO POST QUESTIONS. I learned everything I knew to build my sub from these forums. That sub's gonna kick a$$.


    Thanks!

    You're welcome.
     
  6. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    "If I get some time tonight, I'll get youthe link for the program I used to come up with the dimensions."


    Here it is:http://www.audiodiycentral.com/tools.shtml

    They have a program called Boxy CAD that you can use to determine the size of box you need ot build. It has asome quirks, the main one being that it assumes you're building two speakers. Even when you adjust it to do one, it gives you info for bracing for two speakers.

    Have fun.
     
  7. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Thanks for the help again!

    the bracing is the main concern i had. Figure if i make sort of a "T" shaped brace on the inside it should hold together pretty well.

    I will probably use
    http:[email protected]..m/P1010045.JPG
    that sort of circular bracing on the inside with eggshell foam. Do you think it would it matter if i used the foam that was made for a bed as a filler.
    Also.. do i put the foam on the braces as well? or just the inner sides of the walls?
    Finally... Hooking up the amp to the speaker itself is simply just a +/- connection correct? Then on the outside of the amp which one goes into my receiver?
     
  8. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    It seems like people use all kinds of things to stuff/line subs with, so whatever you use could work fine. Bear in mind that I've only built one of these. There have been posters here who build that many a month! As long as there's room/clearance for the driver, port, amp, and connections from the amp to the driver, your braces should be fine. The connections are fairly simple. After all, I figured them out. There should be a sub out or LFE out on your receiver. This plugs into a similar input on the sub amp.
     
  9. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    I just reread what you had posted earlier, The original plan was to use the 240 watt amp, which many recommend over the 250 watt amp. Should i order the 240 over the 250? Is there any reason why the 240 is a better choice?
    Also i'm considering making the box Non-ported. and forward firing rather than ported/downward firing. Wise choice on my part?
     
  10. ColinM

    ColinM Cinematographer

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    I believe the 240 is a hardier design, or is preferred based on technological differences. My 250 is dying a slow miserable death after 4 years of good use. I won't buy another.
     
  11. ColinM

    ColinM Cinematographer

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    Sealed is a completely diferent beast vs. ported. It'll be more polite and dry, maybe, but it won't play as deep - although the right location might make it the better choice, especially if you have a taste for that kind of sound. Add EQ and be judicious with the volume control and it'll mimic the depth of the ported design, max SPL would be around 99 - 105db.

    You have to build both to really decide. Hell - I really don't know. If it were me, after living with a ported job for a few years now, I'd go sealed 3 ft. Inone electronics (old MCM) has the Rava box for $95, Madisound for $105. They'd give a Q of .8, a good bassy bump.
     
  12. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Hey Colin

    How does this design look to you
    http://www.prosteering.8k.com/custom4.html

    I'm about 99% sure about doing somthing along these lines.
    Forward firing, 4"x11" port, eggshell padded inside and braced as best as I can with my lack of experience. Running the Dayton Quatro 15" with the 240watt plate amp from parts express. I just need a little help if anyone could give me suggestions on how to brace it "properly" or the most efficient way.
     
  13. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Also..
    I got my dimensions all set i just need to know if anyone can help me out with WinISD because i am trying to figure it out and honestly i feel like i need a PHD to understand what the heck is going on with it. If anyone that can help could help me figure out my port size with my sub box as follows

    5.5CF
    21" Width
    20" Height
    29" Length
    braced in a "+"

    15" Dayton Quatro
    Parts Express 240 watt plate amp.

    I tried plugging in the values with the specs from PE but i just really dont get it and would seriously appreciate help finding the port length
     
  14. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    You might want to read up on all of this in PEs forum. There is one poster there who, after inspiring my design, went to a sealed box and says he likes it better. The cabinet would be a lot smaller. I think a 19" or 20" cube would do.

    PE and Adire, anothe speaker manufacturer, havd formulae on their sites for determining if a driver can be down-fired. The Quatro should not be down-fired.

    Since I have no experience with the 240 or 250 amps, I can't comment on that, other than that anything I ever read said that the 240 watter is better. I got the 500 watt amp cuz it was on sale for $197.
     
  15. ColinM

    ColinM Cinematographer

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    According to WinISD, you want 4"x12.5" for [email protected]

    Max SPL = [email protected]

    Looks good!

    Brace it as simple or as elaborate as you wish, just don't be symmetrical - slightly off center.

    ...I simply have 1x2's glued to the near-center of the walls to stiffen them. 1" face attached so they stand up off of the walls, 3/4" MDF, plus 1/4" oak ply...plenty dead.
     
  16. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Parts are ordered now. Just waiting for them to be shipped here.
    I am going to buy the MDF probably tommorow on my lunch break. Just curious tho on a couple minor things.

    1) The flare on the 4" port i count into the length as well? (12.5")

    http://www.partsexpress.com/imageslarge/300-804l.jpg
    2) thats the amp i'm getting. From the subwoofer input on the back of my receiver i plug into either the red/white output on the plate amp?

    3) What should i do with the rest of the options on the amp (Sorry if this is a dumb question) Freq, Gain, Auto and Phase.

    4) Does anyone know if the plate amp comes with the plug to put in the wall?

    5) Am i going ot have to do anything like this with the Quatro (I'm not sure if it has dual voice coils like the speaker in the picture) http:[email protected]..m/P1010019.JPG

    6) Once its all glued together i'm thinking about just going over all the internal edges with a silicone to really get a good seal and around the port as well.

    7) I'm using eggcrate foam for insulation. Should i insulate all 6 sides inside the sub?
    Thanks! I'll post pics of the process hopefully soon
     
  17. lee ison

    lee ison Stunt Coordinator

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    Mike, I built two of these using almost the same dems. as you listed above ,only difference was I used 2 display cubes (3/4" mdf)that i bought at a hotel liquidator for 10.00 each, only had to make the front plate for the quattro , braced side to side, top to bottom ,front to back all offset, use convulted foam on five walls no stuffing,turned out fine. power from an old kenwood 2-ch 2oo watt power amp controlled by my rec. Man can these things play LOUD and deep! Take your time do it right you won't be disappointed.OH yeah the cubes are piano black on five sides.
     
  18. ChadLB

    ChadLB Screenwriter

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    Anyone have pics of there DIY Quatro?
     
  19. Jack Keck

    Jack Keck Second Unit

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    Parts are ordered now. Just waiting for them to be shipped here.
    I am going to buy the MDF probably tommorow on my lunch break. Just curious tho on a couple minor things.

    1) The flare on the 4" port i count into the length as well? (12.5")

    There is a formula for that with the Power Port. IIRC, you add an inch for the flares, i. e., if you were planning a 12" port, then the entire Power Port, including the flares, should be 13".

    http://www.partsexpress.com/imageslarge/300-804l.jpg
    2) thats the amp i'm getting. From the subwoofer input on the back of my receiver i plug into either the red/white output on the plate amp?

    I'm not familiar with that amp, but most of them have an RCA plug (like the one from your DVD or tape deck to your receiver)that corresponds to the sub output on your receiver. You need a cable long enough,and you're set.

    3) What should i do with the rest of the options on the amp (Sorry if this is a dumb question) Freq, Gain, Auto and Phase.

    Mess with them 'til it sounds good, or get an SPL meter from Radio Shack and a CD of some test tones to adjust it more accurately.

    4) Does anyone know if the plate amp comes with the plug to put in the wall?

    Mine did, and it came from PE.

    5) Am i going ot have to do anything like this with the Quatro (I'm not sure if it has dual voice coils like the speaker in the picture) http:[email protected]..om/P1010019.JPG

    Nope. It'll be obvious once you see the driver. Trust me.

    6) Once its all glued together i'm thinking about just going over all the internal edges with a silicone to really get a good seal and around the port as well.

    good plan.]

    7) I'm using eggcrate foam for insulation. Should i insulate all 6 sides inside the sub?
    Thanks! I'll post pics of the process hopefully soon

    It's guaranteed to look better than mine.
     
  20. MikeGee

    MikeGee Second Unit

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    Alright thanks for all that help especially with the port length.

    Just ran into 2 more questions while drawing this thing up to scale on paper.

    How do i secure the port? Should i brace it near the end on the inside of the box or should the 2 layers of 3/4" MDF on the front baffle + alot of glue seal it in pretty nicely?

    Also does anyone reccomend using screws to hold it together a little firmer? I didnt want to use screws for cosmetic reasons, but i will most likely cover it with veneer so the screws wouldnt even be visible. Or should i just stick with using alot of glue and silicone?
     

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