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About to buy the LG OLED 77 C1 (1 Viewer)

Johnny Angell

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We’re about to buy the above TV, probably from Costco. Is there a good calibration disc to use? Any tips for doing the calibration? What doe the PUB mean in the model number?

Those of you have bought from Costco before, any thing I should know?
 

Robert_Zohn

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I recommend Spears & Munsil 10bit test disc for setting the peak and minimum luminance levels.

The letters "AUB" also sometimes referred to as "AUS" are LG's special edition of their C1 series OLED TVs that are specifically designed and built for member only stores, like BJ's and Costco. The sufix "PUB" for the C1 series are designed and built for the independent A/V dealers and big box stores like Best Buy.

One tip is LG's top 7 independent authorized dealers are called "Prestigious Pinnacle Dealers" and consumers who buy from one of LG's Prestigious Pinnacle dealers get a new advance replacement TV if their TV develops a manufacturers defect with the first 90 days.. Also within the one year warranty if the TV needs service and LG does not fix the TV within 5 days you get a new TV.

Prestigious Pinnacle dealers also get the first allocations of TVs when supply is constrained.

Select Prestigious Pinnacle dealers get two more exclusive benefits.
 

Robert_Zohn

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The Spears & Munsil calibration dies also has color calibration test patterns, but to properly use them you would need professional calibration software and a professional Colorimeter.
 

JWC1969

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Well, we did it and bought the TV. Arrives Tuesday next week. It was to have a shop card to soften the blow.
Johnny, I humbly recommend you consider getting it professionally calibrated once you get over 100 hours on the TV. (OLEDs need a little break-in time as opposed to LED-LCDs.) It's such a great piece of kit it would be a shame not to squeeze every last drop from its picture capabilities. Short of pro calibration (PS: I'd love to do it for you but my biz is up in Chicago) at minimum right out of the box change the picture mode to ISF Bright or Dark and make sure all the motion processing is off. (Frame interpolation is the devil incarnate.) Once you do that you'll be a good way towards where we'd be heading when one has an LG OLED professionally calibrated. (Not that we can't do much more tweaking but you need the proper gear/software, etc.). If the picture appears too dark on either ISF settings for your taste, use the OLED Light control to bump it up. Don't touch contrast. Enjoy the TV!
 

JWC1969

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@JWC1969 what should I expect to pay for a calibration?
It fluctuates from pro to pro, of course. (And when I say pro I mean someone who's been trained by ISF or THX and has all the gear, including a colorimeter, a spectrophotometer (used to profile the colorimeter to the TV/projector being calibrated), a SDR/HDR pattern generator such as a Murideo, and specialized calibration software such as Calman or ChromaPure. In other words, not someone from Best Buy!)

These qualifications/gear/know-how ensure your picture will adhere to the very specific standards laid out by the Society of Motion Picture & Television Engineers (SMPTE).

With all that said, I know I charge $350. And for that the client gets the following:
  • Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) dark room calibration (for when you’re watching with all/most the lights off)
  • Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) bright room calibration (for daylight or ambient light)
  • HDR calibration
  • Pre/Post Calibration Report generated by the calibration software
  • Pre/Post TV settings (in case you ever want to go back or the calibration gets messed with)
  • Explanation of above
Hope that helps. Cheers!
 

Johnny Angell

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@JWC1969 That helps a lot. Another questions, how do all those calibrations fit into one TV input source, since everything is going thru my AVR first. Which brings up a question, would the calibration include proper settings for the AVR? No, that would be extra.
 

JWC1969

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@JWC1969 That helps a lot. Another questions, how do all those calibrations fit into one TV input source, since everything is going thru my AVR first. Which brings up a question, would the calibration include proper settings for the AVR? No, that would be extra.
So each TV input for an LG TV allows for a SDR calibration AND an HDR calibration. Meaning that when you do an HDR calibration after the SDR calibration on, say, the ISF Dark picture mode, it won't futz with the SDR tweaks made atop the same input/picture mode. Which is awesome as most TVs don't have this sort of total separate between the two. Actually, the more I think about it one could probably do a separate SDR and HDR calibration for EACH picture mode within EACH HDMI input. Which would be nuts of course. One needs a calibration for a dark room, a light room and HDR for both.

And the nice thing about running everything thru an AVR (basically using it as a switcher) is that you only need to do those calibration for one TV input, usually the ARC. (This assumes all your peripherals are plugged into the AVR's HDMIs rather than the TV. If you ever needed to use another TV input and wanted to port over the tweaks you've made when calibrating, LG has a Copy Settings in their menu. It's a bit of a pain because you need to copy the setting of every menu you tweaked in the calibration but it's easier than plugging in new numbers.)

Finally, your AVR should simply pass through the video signal so no need to worry about the AVR messing with the TV calibrations. No special settings needed. As a matter of fact, make sure you go into the AVR's menu to ensure it's simply passing thru the signal to and from the TV rather than doing any processing.

Hope this helps!
 

JWC1969

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I think my LG UH8500 has a save settings to all inputs.
It does indeed, exactly what you need to use if you ever decide to plug more stuff into the TV’s Hdmi inputs. If you do, though, remember to double check that all the settings port over to the new input. As I recall, when you get into the white balance settings you may have to do the Save to All Settings for each IRE. Anyway, your calibrator surely knows all this. Have fun with the 77” OLED! How far we’ve come—I remember trying to hook up my boom box to our 19” CRT back in the mid-80s to get more robust sound. Never mind the quality of the VHS/rabbit ears picture!
 

Bartman

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I purchased a 55" B8 several years ago, in a BB secret sale for $1400. Having been used to a good plasma, this LG was one of my best ever purchases. Enjoy your 77" C1. Remember to turn off most of the additional picture processing. If your sources are good, you shouldn't need them. The only downside, we use the LG streaming app and it works well but it's missing some important channels (PBS, ESPN, Tubi etc), so you may need an external 4K streaming box!
 

Rick2Hot

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Where Sony beats all other brands are their processors they use in their sets. They are way ahead of all other brands. In fact Sony won the Valu Electronics Shoot held last Sunday for the 4K Oled sets. If you want the best get yourself a Sony. If you want just a tv get a LG or Samsung or any other off brand TV.
 

Robert Crawford

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Where Sony beats all other brands are their processors they use in their sets. They are way ahead of all other brands. In fact Sony won the Valu Electronics Shoot held last Sunday for the 4K Oled sets. If you want the best get yourself a Sony. If you want just a tv get a LG or Samsung or any other off brand TV.
The Sony also cost about 25% more than the LG and I suspect Sony's improvement over the LG isn't anywhere close to that price difference.

Anyhow, if you want to promote Sony then please do so in another thread without raining on Johnny's parade as he celebrates his new purchase.
 

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