About to begin 214l vented tempest build ..

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Jin Kazma, Oct 15, 2004.

  1. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    Went tool shopping today as i've never worked on anything with power tools in my life ..

    bought a drill, circular saw, jig saw.

    then i got silicone I and caulking gun, heavy duty liquid nails, 2 36" wood clamps, and all the 3/4"mdf i will need and a little extra for possible uses.

    i still need to get a compass for drawing out the circle cutouts.

    now the drill i bought came with minimal bits so my first question is:

    1. what size drill bit do i need to pre-drill holes to mount the driver?

    2. Do the screws come with the driver? I am still waiting for mine to come via ups.

    3. what is the best way to securely fasten the driver?

    4. do i need to use silicone around the edge of the area where the driver will be pressed against on the outer rim of the mdf plate to seal it?


    and then moving on to my final question.

    How do i go about crafting legs for this badboy? is there any pre-made option i can do, perhaps heavy duty spikes that are 4 inches tall so that i can place this on my carpet?

    any info will be welcome and appreciated before i committ to this project.

    Being 22 and having never done anything of this nature before i see this as a great learning experience as i KNOW i will find this useful for the rest of my life.
     
  2. GrahamT

    GrahamT Supporting Actor

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    The Tempest is a good choice, and you're right that the DIY process is rewarding and applicable to other areas in your life. Having built the EBS Tempest a couple of times I can try to help you out.

    1. I dont know the exact drill bit size but you might want to get a pack of bits and use one slighty smaller than the diameter of the screws. Hopefully someone remembers the exact size. You will have to pre-drill for every screw you put into the MDF, it splits really easily.

    2and3. Screws probably dont come with the driver, not unless you bought a mounting kit. You want pan head screws for mounting the driver or T-nuts. I prefer the screws.

    4. You will have to make a gasket, you can use closed cell foam, some use rope caulk and there are probably other options, but silicone is not a good idea because it is a huge pain to get the driver out.

    For the legs, I made them part of the enclosure like the subs seen here
    http://quicksitebuilder.cnet.com/ima...target=tlx_new

    Good luck Jin, hope this helps.
     
  3. Mattak

    Mattak Stunt Coordinator

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    I normally use:

    #7 x 1 1/2" wood screws for the enclosure.
    #8-32 x whatever length necessary machine screws for the driver.
    #8-32 x 1/4" T-nuts for the driver.
    Elmers carpenters wood glue, or a polyurethane like Gorilla Glue.
    Whatever caulking is cheapest to line the inner joints.
    Drill bit to match the screws, normally you'll want to use a bit size that is width of the inner thread diameter of the screw.
    Appropriate countersink bit for enclosure screws.
    Saw guide (basically a long straight edge) to clamp and cut against with circular saw.
    For the driver machine screws I drill with a bit ever so slightly larger than the screw thread diameter. I then take a T-nut and hold it in place while I screw in a screw with a large washer on it. This pulls the T-nut securely into place. I guess you could hammer them in, but I don't usually actually cut the driver hole til I'm basically done with the enclosure.

    So far this has worked will for me here and here. I'm also 22 is that matters [​IMG]
     
  4. Dean-P

    Dean-P Stunt Coordinator

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    Don't use wood screws! They break out the mdf even when they are predrilled!
    The best "screws" to use are gyproc(sheetrock)screws,they have a small body but with lots of grip. You'll need a 1/16 drill bit for these. I even use them to hold the driver into!
    BTW Use lots of glue!
     
  5. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    I am getting conflicts of screw here ...

    i just came from ace hardware with a bag of the #7 1 1/2" wood screws and now i read this ...

    btw thanks for all the info guys i learned from everything ya'll typed. i REALLY am feeling my way through the dark on this..
     
  6. GrahamT

    GrahamT Supporting Actor

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    I agree with Dean, sheetrock or particle board screws hold better to MDF with less splitting.
     
  7. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    If you have enough clamps, forget the screws, just glue-n-clamp the MDF panels together.

    I did this boxed sub project with just clamps and glue when putting the panels together for the box.
     
  8. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    quick question...

    do the peices of mdf have to have perfectly smooth straight edges to form an airtight seal between each other with the help of liquid nails and silicone caulking...

    i have a side piece that is short near a corner by 1/16 on the ruler and when i press it against another board to see the fit at the end where it is short there is a tiny tiny gap between the board and the board it is pressed against... i'd say 15% of the side is short while the other 85% fits flush.. will this be "ok" since im going to screw, glue, and caulk the box?

    p.s. have most of the mdf cut down and i never knew woodwork could kick your A** so much. I feel like an old man from so much bending over since i don't really have a nice table setup to do this on. [​IMG]
     
  9. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    oh yea and i went ahead and got a box of #6 1-5/8 coarse thread screws and a 1/16" drill bit to drill pilot holes for the,.
     
  10. PeterV

    PeterV Agent

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    hi jim,

    you have been given lots of excellent advice already.
    an alternative to t-nuts and screws for mounting
    your tempest driver would be to use panel connectors.
    they can be ordered from rockler.com and come 8 per package.
    the cost is $3.69 per pack. they are the correct length when securing the driver to 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf. the part # from
    rockler is 18350. i have built 3 different sonosubs using the
    panel connectors and they have worked fine. one of the subs i built is a tempest almost identical to the one you are building. i think you will be pleasantly surprised!!
    best regards,
    Peter V
     
  11. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    I'm a proponent of doing it right the first time when possible, so if a panel doesn't fit flush, then get another piece and cut it to fit flush with the rest of the panels.
     
  12. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    is it highly recommended to use double 3/4" with the mdf at the bottom where the driver will be mounted?

    the official designs on adire's website don't seem to call for it although i do understand that in the spirit of DIY, modifications and personal tweaks are what make it fun but bottom line do i really need to? is the single sheet of 3/4 mdf not suitable as a base with legs to support this giant box?
     
  13. Mattak

    Mattak Stunt Coordinator

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    Jin: Mine is 265 liters (minus bracing/port/driver displacement) and has been just fine with a 3/4" baffle as shown in one of the links I posted earlier. I did use reasonably large washers on the inside where the screw holds the legs, though.
     
  14. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    i have all the pieces pre-cut and everything fits within reasonable tolerance. I am doing the 214L tempest build.

    It is pretty obvious the last peice to be mounted will be the bottom baffle but as for the rest im not sure exactly what is the best way to ensure proper fit and sturdiness...

    should i mount the braces to the top plate and assemble the four sides first with glues and screws and wait it to harden and then squeeze the top plate with braces firmly attached onto the newly assembled open box minus bottom baffle?

    or perhaps assemble the four walls and then the braces and wait for it all to harden and settle and then simply mount the top plate onto everything?
     
  15. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    How many clamps do you have?
     
  16. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    I have 4 36" c lamps from home depot
     
  17. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    You might not have enough clamps.

    I'd finish all the work needed on the bottom panel (holes, screw holes, legs, port hole, etc).

    If it were me, I'd glue up the braces (and while the pieces were drying, I'd clamp all the exterior panels around the braces so I'd know the exterior panels will fit with the internal brace pieces inside.

    Once the brace pieces are glued/dried, then the side panels would be glued/screwed into place, again, I'd clamp all the sides while the joints were drying to make sure everything fits. Some people will glue adjoining side panels and the edges for the top and bottom panel. And as you add another side panel, you just glue/screw those edges together, all the while you clamp everything together once the glue/screws are in place. Do this until all 4 side panels are glued/screwed in place.
     
  18. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    I see now.

    thanks for the great advice.

    im going to secure the 3 brace peices together then and build the walls around them. I see the logic in building from inwards out. what point is the braces if they arent fitting perfectly within and bracing properly.

    thanks a lot!

    p.s. I already have the 4 walls clamped together from last night when i was checking fit and flush top and bottom and while i had it tightly together i went ahead and stuck all the braces inside and it was a very tight but sure fit so i think that step is already finished for me.
     
  19. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    i glued two of the braces together.. how long should i wait for the liquid nails to harden before i remove the clamps and attach the final brace?
     
  20. Jin Kazma

    Jin Kazma Extra

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    well guys your advice has definately carried me through most of the project because not everything is in those diagrams and this being my first project i'm pretty damn proud that i actually pulled this off...

    not bad for 6 days of work considering the heat and humidity of southern texas [​IMG] i was working in the garage just yesterday in 94 degree weather with 100% humidity at noon time ....

    the final bottom baffle has driver and ports mounted and i have it clamped to the box now... just patiently waiting until perhaps late this afternoon before i slap the amp on and lug the box upstairs...

    wish me luck [​IMG]
     

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