A sub that won't scare the children (1 Viewer)

[gmorstadt]

I have a Sony STK-D790, small Onkyo's for the front and center, and Polk R10's for surrounds. I am in the market for a sub that will not scare the children when watching movies after bedtime but still rock when I turn up the volume for music when they are in school. I will need to hook it up using the front speaker connections due to the absensce of a sub-out on my reciever. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SHS]

Use "night mode" on your receiver, or turn off the sub at night.

A sub at even low levels will travel through the house because these low frequencies below 20hz are infrasonic and travel great distances. The only way to eliminate them is to.. ..well, eliminate them. Turn them down or off.

I guess you could get a sub that only delivers high frequencies but then that's not a sub. :frowning: .

 

[Tom Abbott]

Perhaps you need that Buttkicker tactile speaker system that was reviewed recently on HTF. You would get the "shakes" without your kids getting that other version of them! http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/...it-review.html

 

[gmorstadt]

Ok, so I need to turn it off after bedtime. It is my understanding that a sub is the single greatest improvement I can make, with the setup I have right now. Are there any suggestions as to the type that would not overpower the rest of the setup but simply add to the quality of the sound?

The buttkicker sure would be fun to have but is not really practicle for my setup right now.

 

[SHS]

Ahhhh, now this is a real issue.
Any sub you get will need calibration into your system and you will want to use an spl meter to integrate your setup. Any sub you get you will get supporters and detractors for the brand, type and quality of sound.

I would first determine your desire, requirements and expectations. One thing that many

of have done is to purchase something prematurely only to find out it really isn't what we needed after the honeymoon period wore off. :frowning:

Please answer these questions and I'm sure there are dozens of members with excellent ideas, most of them will recommend internet direct.

• Room size - L + W + H + Open Doorways?
• Budget?
• Peak SPL desire during HT and/or music?
• Preference for shape (box, cylinder, etc)?
• Color/Finish Required?
• Area of placement - AKA footprint?
• Usage - %HT vs %Music?
• Type of music?
• Expectation of frequency response - Below 20hz with authority?

As you may see there are more variables than just a brand name and a price tag. If you take the time to research these things you will be happier in the long run with your purchase.

 

[gmorstadt]

Thanks Scott. It took me a bit of time to figure these specs out since I am pretty new to all of this. Here are the specs you asked for:

•Room size - L + W + H + Open Doorways?

15’x25’x8’ the system is on one 15’ side and an open staircase leading up is at the other end.

•Budget?

It depends on significance of sound quality. I would like to be fairly low around $200 (my entire set-up including HDTV is only around $1000, mostly used equip.), but if $400 would be in a different league of its own (which I suspect it won’t be) I might spend more.

•Peak SPL desire during HT and/or music?

109.2/107.5

•Preference for shape (box, cylinder, etc)?

None.

•Color/Finish Required?

Black.

•Area of placement - AKA footprint?

I can place it anywhere.

•Usage - %HT vs %Music?

%HT = 80%, %Music = 20%

•Type of music?

All varieties of rock.

•Expectation of frequency response - Below 20hz with authority?

Not sure what authority means, but I guess the closest to 20hz that $200-$400 will provide.

 

[Robert_J]

Since you want it more for HT and your room is on the large size, an efficient, ported sub will be your best value. With a ported sub you get better lows with a slight sacrifice of the upper bass. Based on that the eD A2-300, the Hsu STF-2, the SVS PB10-NSD, or the Outlaw LMF-1 Compact Sub should fit you budget and your goals.

-Robert

 

[SHS]

$200 might be a challenge. The choices Robert gave you are a good start. Actually there is a significant difference between $200 and $400 subs. Most importantly because the $400 range gets you into the first tier of these internet direct(ID) company offerings like Robert mentioned. You might wonder of there is a significant difference between the $400 and $600 and so on and the answer is yes, there is a noticeable and definite improvement on sound/SPL volume, finish, frequency range, accuracy, headroom and etc. as you move up the scale.
With that said, you don't always get what you pay for and some companies charge more just for the name and less for the quality. If you stay with these ID suppliers I think you will be safe.

On a $400 budget 109.2 SPL might be a bit of a challenge in a room that size with one end open to a stairwell though. This is dependant on many factors though as I am sure you were being a little humorous for one. Additionally SPL readings are usually taken from the listening position and I think that range is a bit loud for extended periods of time....again this is all based on personal choice so.....YMMV.

I would recommend contacting SVS or other ID companies directly. The customer support is stellar and from my personal experience they recommend what you need not for the most profit to them, even to the extent of recommending other suppliers if they do not have a solution.

BTW; You mentioned you were new to this and I do not want to be condescending in any way. You may already know these things. If you don't know there are some basics that you need to learn.

Footprint is the area of floor space the sub will take up. Example 2'x2' square, etc.
SPL or Sound Pressure Level is a unit of sound measurement obtained with an SPL meter. This unit is the decible or dB. A jackhammer at 1 meter is approx 100dB, permanent hearing damage may occur at around 120dB short term exposure and about 85dB long term exposure. (estimated) Many recommend Radio Shack as a supplier for this meter. I bought one there and I have been pleased with it.

 

[gmorstadt]

Thanks for the detailed responses. I did not know what SPL was and found a calculator on another site that used the speaker sensitivity, amp rated power, distance from speakers, number of speakers, and speaker placement to give me the total SPL. 109.2 is definitely louder than I will listen to on a regular basis, although I do have some hearing loss as a result of standing to close to the speakers during concerts earlier in my life.

I will check out the suggested speakers that you recommended, Robert. Thanks for the assortment of choices.