A recipe for disaster? Another sub question. (1 Viewer)

[Andrew JC]

I finally got the green light from the spouse to get a sub. I have decided to get a Stryke AV12 MKII in a sealed one cu foot box. with a Rhythmic plate amp. Ya I know bright idea now that I missed the pre order on the AV12 MKII! The big limitation is $$$ right now. Between xmas and trying to sell my house funds are tight. I’m looking at doing this piece meal, building a box, buying the driver, and then the amp. My question is what is the best first step? I contacted a local cabinetmaker that can build the box. Assuming I can supply him with the cut out dimensions of the driver and the amp is this the way to go?

 

[Wes Nance]

Andrew,

It's really up to you, as you won't have a working sub until everything's bought and installed. You can get very detailed dimensions on the driver from John, and I have the Rhythmik amp, so I've probably got the cutout info for that, or get it off the rhythmik site.

I would build the box first, that way when you've got the $$ for the driver and amp and they arrive, you can install them and get going.

I've got exactly that setup (except not the mkII version) in a 3ft^3 box with 2 passive radiators tuned to 20hz. It's very impressive.

Have fun-

Wes

 

[Paul Spencer]

Andrew,

I have the AV12 as well, two of them. I would not recommend starting with the box before you get the driver. It's best to check the actual driver, as I recall mine measures a little different to the measurement on the site. This would depend on whether or not you want to flush mount the driver, in which case, the cabinetmaker should have the driver to get a close fit. It does stick out quite a lot and I think it looks much better flush mounted.

If funds are tight, why not build it yourself? A sealed sub is very easy to build. If you don't have all the tools, get them to cut the MDF accurately (for a few extra dollars). If you don't have the means to recess the driver at the front, you could make it downfiring, and that also saves you the hassle of a grille. Then it is just a simple matter of painting or veneering.

regards,
Paul

 

[Andrew JC]

Thanks for the replies even though they are contradictory ! The only reason a contacted a cabinetmaker is because I want the driver flush mounted and I do not own a router. Also I was looking to get the baffle made from 1” MDF the cabinetmaker said that would be a special order so I’m to have him double up on .75” MDF. I’ll e-mail John at Stryke to see if there is any variance between drivers. If that’s the case it looks like I should order the driver first, build the cabinet then get the amp. Thanks for the input....andy

 

[Paul Spencer]

Andrew,

It's not only about the actual dimensions varying, or the dimensions on the site being correct or not. The outside dimension is determined by how the rubber is positioned, which sits over the metal frame. This makes it impossible to really measure properly. If you want a nice close fit, then he really needs the driver there. The rubber tends to move.

regards,
Paul

 

[Frank Carter]

Here's a good deal on a MCM's 360 watt plate amp($139 shipped) with a remote. If you order before Jan. 5 you get free shipping, it would save you $31 compared to the Rythmik when you factor in shipping.

http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...jsp?id=50-6282

 

[Wayne Ernst]

You can actually flush mount the driver without having a router. Two pieces of MDF for the baffle will allow you to do this. For the "under" piece, cut the hole at 11" so that the driver can mount to that piece. For the "outer" piece, cut it the diameter of the driver (e.g. 12") so that the driver can countersink and appear to be flush mounted. Personally, I feel that you need to do this with the baffle to ensure there is enough surface to mount the driver.

If your cabinet maker can't get the 1" MDF, you could just purchase the material from Home Depot and deliver it to your cabinet maker.

 

[Andrew JC]

I did not know HD stocks 1"MDF. So if I don't have a router to cut the hole then you would have to use a jig saw right?

 

[Wayne Ernst]

Andrew, that is correct. You can use a jig saw to make the cuts for the subwoofer in the MDF. No need for a router.

 

[Sebastian]

andrew,

Have you tried contacting John at Stryke? He is always busy so he may take a while to get back to you, but he may give you a good deal on an AV12 and raw MDF box for it.



Frank, how does this amp compare to the Rythmic? Is the 20 watts really that much?

 

[Wayne Ernst]

Andrew, I think I provided the wrong information. Actually, the MDF that Home Depot sells is 3/4" MDF and not 1" as I indicated. I had some scraps of MDF in the garage, so I went out to measure the thickness. The stuff I purchased from Home Depot is 3/4". Sorry for any confusion that I may have caused.

 

[Frank Carter]

You could always laminate two layers of the 1/2" MDF they sell.

 

[Andrew JC]

Being a first time homeowner I have spent more than my fair time over the last couple of years at the Depot. I did not think they sold 1"MDF. The sandwich idea will work just as well. Sebastian does have a god idea of seeing if John can do a box. I have done some researching and Brian Bunge should be able to help.Thank you all for the good ideas.

 

[Wes Nance]

Andrew,

I think you're on the right track if you're talking with Brian and John.

Hope your project goes well. You'll love the sub. I have the rhythmik amp, and really like it. I've heard that the power supply is more beefy than other similar rated amps, but am not sure that is fact. The variable boost/roll off switches are very handy, though. I would strongly recommend the product. . .

Have fun!

Wes

 

[Brian Bunge]

I'm pretty sure the two amps are basically identical power-wise. After all, they're from the same manufacturer. Just like the PE and Adire 250W amps are from the same manufacturer.

Also, IIRC the 12 spoke baskets require slightly larger through holes. I believe you'll need a hole approx. 1.125" in diameter. Here's a crazy idea. When you order the driver also ask John to send you a baffle made of double layer 3/4" material cut to flush mount the driver. All you'll need to tell him is the exact dimensions the baffle needs to be. Then the cabinetmaker can attach it to the box for you if you don't want to handle building the rest of the box yourself.

 

[Andrew JC]

I think I have a better idea. Brian I sent you a PM. thanks...andy