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$300 budget for passive sub? (1 Viewer)

Chuck Bogie

Second Unit
Joined
Jan 14, 2003
Messages
397
Oh yeah, and it probably won't be a sonotube - I've got a bud who is putting together a room, and I owe him a present... This'll be my first (electronic) project, but I've built (some nice, if I say so myself...) furniture before. I figure I may have $25-30 in the MDF at the most, right?

Which basically leaves the driver, and maybe $25 or so for wire, laminate, plugs, feet, etc.. So - What driver would you go with in the $200ish range? Or cheaper, if it'll work - hey, I'm not proud.

He'll probably be running it with half of a Phase Linear 700 (the other half should be destined for the center channel), unless someone tells me that this is a Bad Idea.
 

Jeffrey Noel

Screenwriter
Joined
Sep 11, 2001
Messages
1,533
Chuck, I'd suggest the Stryke AV12. I just received mine, and it is amazing. More difficult to bottom than the Shiva or the PE 12"DVC. Plus it looks pretty! Great sub. Or you could go with a Tempest, but do you want a big enclosure? There's also the Stryke AV15, but I don't know much about that one.

BTW, what size of enclosure do you want to build? And do you want it ported or sealed?
 

Jonathan_D

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
142
Check out the Adire Tempest as well. It's $150 shipped and Adire provides pretty detailed plans for building a box. Its a DVC so you friend could use both sides of that Phase Linear! :emoji_thumbsup: Also for consideration is the Stryke Audio AV-15. It may still be had for $165 plus shipping, though its MSRP is, IIRC, $225. Folks say it performs better than the Tempest. If its still $165 I might consider getting one and dropping it in a box designed for the Tempest (122L sealed).
 

Chuck Bogie

Second Unit
Joined
Jan 14, 2003
Messages
397
Really considering a sealed box - I suspect that it may be easier to construct (and get it right the first time) than a ported one...

Decisions, decisions... Then again, one can go louder with a ported box, right?

My bud currently has three Phase Linear 400s (for the front, surround and back?) and a Phase Linear 700 (for the center and sub?). Or would it be better to split a 400 for the center and a single back, and run both sides of the 700 for the sub? Hmm...
 

Jonathan_D

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
142
No doubt sealed are easier to design and build, and ported will give you higher SPL given the same amount of power. However, the sealed will be smoother for music and should be easier to integrate into an existing system.
 

Chuck Bogie

Second Unit
Joined
Jan 14, 2003
Messages
397
So that thing is made of something like Baltic Birch plywood, rather than MDF? I _really_ like the top - can one actually set stuff on it?

Actually sorta thinking of a longer/lower table. Like your interior braces too.
 

TimForman

Supporting Actor
Joined
Dec 4, 2002
Messages
847
I avoid setting things on it during movies although I have gotten away with items setting on some type of sound absorbing material (thick cloth, etc.). Also, I changed the position of the sub in the room from in front of the sofa to the corner as it seemed the wavelengths are just too long to hear sitting so close (you get a nice foot massage though) and the corner reinforces the bass. The best spot for bass in the room is right behind the sofa on the riser platform. Shape is not as important as having the correct interior volume.
 

TimForman

Supporting Actor
Joined
Dec 4, 2002
Messages
847
Sorry Chuck. I didn't answer all your questions. I used 3/4" marine grade oak plywood rather than MDF because I wanted the oak finish without messing around with veneers. The corners are solid oak and the "table" edge is also solid oak. The joints are all biscuits except the dowels in the top. There are no screws or nails. The braces are 3/4" MDF. There are no rattles from the box and I've scared myself with sympathetic vibrations from the house at certain frequencies. It will pump out in excess of 110db at 20Hz (375 watts @ 4 ohm)if you can stand it.
 

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