16" Sono- will a Tempest fit & more?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Geoff L, Jul 7, 2002.

  1. Geoff L

    Geoff L Screenwriter

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    Ok, why right.

    Well the idea is a friend has 10'6" in height room. Looking at buliding a simulated looking Roman pillar. You know like you see standing holding the roof at an entry way in the movies. Of course it would have a base plate and be short of touching the top of the room. Have run nothing for sims to this point just seeing if a Tempest would fit in a 16' tube. And would need a disc or two inside the long tube to break the wave.

    Found an egg shell white colored wide ribbed (2" vertical running puffed and stiched ribs) smooth fabric to use as a sock. Wife says it has to match the wall color and it would look best, we agree. The base and top would be 6-7 pieces of 3/4' mdf. 2 going into the tube 1 to 2 routed full round over edge out side the tube and used as the seal (got to draw it to scale to see if this looks right) and the last 3 makeing the square that is slightly larger than the diameter of the 1 or 2 large round over discs butting to the tube. One complete set for the top and one set for the bottom. The ported top would only have one piece going into the tube. With the driver having 6-7 pieces of mdf to go threw and the driver basket tapering might this work? The 3 squares would be around 20+ inches using the 16" tube.

    And lastly 4 round (maybe lathed turned with something fancy, matching the style) and girth legs, 3-4" tall and another square base for it all stand on. All ported out the top. Yes allot of work, heavy, and possibly it's just plain insain. But in their styled room this would look great. Getting the sizeing of all the parts to the proper scale will be the first step so it looks like what it is intended to be.
    They want to get close to the ceiling, but with breathing room of course for the port. Not running sims for an EBS low tune as of yet, maybe an 18" tube might work better. But the 18" may look to large in girth for the room and all the mdf cutting, routeing, and sanding, either 16" or 18" tube, oh boy.

    At this point it's is an idea that he and I was throwing around. It is the only way his better half will let,
     
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Well since your base stuff will extend out from the tube that will give you the room for the legs you need. The Tempest itself is just a little over 15" in diameter and the cut out it requires is right around 14". So a 16" tube will only leave you 1" to mount too. If you can get the circles routed that small and not break them drilling the mounting holes and installing the t-nuts you shouldn't have a problem.

    Only other problem is standing waves and you have a plan to prevent that.

    So should be doable. And if it's not you'll know after cutting the circles the driver will mount to.
     
  3. Geoff L

    Geoff L Screenwriter

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    Thanks Dustin

    The 2 cut outs in the tube would be the deal maker/breaker.

    But with 5 layers of 3/4 mdf before the 2 tube cut outs, all routed for the drivers full mounting cut, couldn't the 2 cut outs in the tube be cut an inch smaller and rounded over as the drivers basket is tapering pretty good buy the time it gets their. I think this would work..?

    Eliminate the T-nuts and use 4 inch stainless course thread industrial drywall screws to mount. Have a source for these.

    Or might this cause some flow problems with the driver?

    Also has anyone done a Tempest in a 16"
    Sono?
     
  4. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Why not just put faux rings/squares as needed for aesthetics on the outside of the sonotube. You really don't need to have so much MDF inside the sonotube, just one layer inside is sufficient, along with the outer layer on the 20" square base. Just make MDF rings/squares of 19", 18", 17" to go on the outside of the sonotube. You wouldn't even need longish screws, 2" long screws would work, and you could use t-nuts too.

    You do need to figure out how you'll be feeding power to the driver though...
     
  5. Geoff L

    Geoff L Screenwriter

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    Excellent point Pat on the terminal cup! This would make for another big job.

    Ok, you got me on the faux rings or squares. What are these?

    The look is the biggest thing and all the mdf was thought of as a bonas for weight to help keep the tall tube steady.

    Hope this turns out!
    It's certainly not to scale but would allow you to see what were trying to envision.

    Top ported and driver mounted on the bottom of the 3rd square. The square sizes and routed round over rings are just aprox mdf dimensions for now.
    ______
    I_____I-->3-mdf squares aprox-20"
    I___I-->2-round over rings-19"
    I I-->Sono starts-16" 3/4"-mdf inside
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I
    I I-->Sono bottom-16" 3/4"-mdf inside
    I___I-->2-mdf round over rings-19" I_____I-->3-mdf squares aprox-20" _i___i_-->legs and 3/4 to 1&1/2" base

    Yes, if done with mdf would have to cut out for the driver and wire cup threw all 3 squares & 2 rounded rings. Now you might be able to see why I mentioned the 6th and "possibly" 7th piece of mdf thats in the tube could be routed smaller by an inch or more. The driver basket is tapering heavily by the time it gets to that point.

    Pat do you have a link to the faux ring things or could explain?

    Yes this is a ton of mdf & cutting for one 16" Sono sub.

    Edit...
    Well shoot that didn't turn out so good. Hope you can make sense of it.
     
  6. Joe Meissner

    Joe Meissner Stunt Coordinator

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    For attaching your speaker wires you could just come down through the top since it will be almost to the ceiling.?
     
  7. Geoff L

    Geoff L Screenwriter

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    Ok Pat gotcha now.
    Yes this would be much easier, faster, better idea! But the wire cup is still a problem.

    That would certainly work Joe but don't think the wire out of the ceiling idea would fly with Johns wife!

    Could route a slot in the bottom outside edge of the fake square bottom deep enough for the cup to set in then drill threw the rest into the tube itself. A little tricky as would have to go in between the diver flange and the edge of the tube. Got to go threw the 1 inch of mdf between the driver edge and the tube edge. Sealing the crap out of the drilled hole once the wire is run to the cup then mount.

    I think this would work.
     
  8. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    I don't see why some of those PE screw in binding posts couldn't just be screwed straight through the sonotube and then just caulked from the inside.
     
  9. Geoff L

    Geoff L Screenwriter

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    I did think of that Dustin but was more in line with epoxing a wood block to the inside for some strength and mouting PE's nice cup, vertical. This would definitly be allot easier that screwing with a bottom mounted cup.

    I've never used the screw in type before.
    Even if it leaked a tiny bit this should not hurt it being ported right?

    So you think that this would be ok, hopefully not a leak but useing the screw ins??
     

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