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The problem could be something other than a phase problem. If it's a big dip that doesn't change with phase, it's probably standing waves or something that can only be fixed with physical solutions like placement and/or sound treatments. Here are some examples of what the phase/distance...

The phase adjustment on the sub and the distance adjustment in the receiver are both intended to accomplish the same thing. To smooth the transition area between the main speakers and the sub(s). Whenever there are two adjustments that accomplish the same thing, it opens up potential problems...

Keep in mind that the distance setting in your rec and the phase setting in your subs are essentially doing the same thing. So you have options on how you do that.

The dip you can’t EQ out is a null. Placement and room treatments are the main way to fix that, but a second sub can also do a lot.

Dave can certainly contribute a lot more than I can, however, your subs have independent phase adjustments, which along with REW should permit you to deal with that particular issue. A MiniDSP will do it much better, while eliminating any need for dual sub outputs, since it can do its thing...

OK, I've been diving into REW and optimizing incorporation of my subwoofers. I started in my living room, and achieved some nice improvements. I ended up with the SB-2000 in the front right corner, based on placement tests, then I checked adjusting the phase for best integration with the front...

Thanks Dave. I could do opposing corners like top #3, just with the corners reversed. My option for top #4 would have the left one about 1/3 into the room. It can't go in both front corners.

Dave, on the dual sealed sub front, like SB-16s, what do you have to say about stacking them, facing forward, or what about stacking with them facing sideways in opposite directions? As in, one on top of the other with one facing right and the other facing left. I'm just trying to identify...

I’d really like to know @Dave Upton ’s feedback regarding the SVS SB-4000 and 16 vs similar Rythmik models.

In general, I find the minuses of sealed subs preferable to the minuses of ported ones. Then again, as you go up in offerings the minuses of sealed ones start disappearing (think Seaton SubMersive) as the size and price goes up. The only thing I genuinely dislike about my ported SVS is when a...

Trying to figure out a new sub is driving me crazy. About all I know is I will go sealed. That is, unless I don’t.

But seriously, I suspect the E15HP2 is very close to, if not matching the SB-16. I won't argue the difference in the companies. Rythmik I think it is fair to say has higher value, and that saves money. There's a $500 difference between the two subs, and that should buy you a lot of quality...

Forgive my hyperbole. It’s a hyperbolic world and I guess it rubbed off on me.

Ask @Dave Upton . He has so much more experience with them than I do. And yes, their web site sucks beyond belief. The fact remains, their subs are very highly regarded, and you can get a pair of that model for $2,800 delivered. I think that might be your best choice. I bet they would put a...

I suspect Dave would recommend a pair of Rythmik E15HP2s. Another serious contender for me as well. In fact, after going around in circles on the issue of new sub(s), and considering the space available in my room, I think a pair of those are now my front runner.

I would consult Dave regarding the 70Hz drop. I suspect that is due to the room and needs to be addressed with physical changes before any equipment changes. I would suggest you stick with a sealed sub, especially with the Legacy mains. The last thing I'd want with that setup is any...

Clearly a room mode at 70Hz.

I can envision myself spending weeks doing frequency sweeps.

Boulder by chance? The projection there is about the same as here.

He goes so fast. He needs to explain what he's doing a little better. Especially the settings in REW.

Well, my calibration stuff is here and we're projected to get as much as three FEET of snow through the weekend. So, I won't be going anywhere until Tuesday, once I get home this afternoon. Maybe I'll have a chance to try the stuff out. Hopefully the power stays on and my roof doesn't collapse.

It sounds like the crossover was set to 40Hz, and the graph certainly exhibits that. Even if the speakers are disconnected, the crossover was probably still at 40Hz.

It looks like your crossover is set at 40Hz. Plus, I can't believe you're getting that kind of output all the way down to 10Hz.

Weird coincidence. Mine is arriving today as well.

Thanks again Dave. This also might be a step into a better/more up to date method for playing HD audio. Now that Oppo has gone away and their app no longer functions, I've lost my method of controlling playback. So, a Mac Mini might find a permanent home in the HT.

Thanks Dave. I ordered the Microphone and the Verified+ meter. I only have the legendary (notorious?) old analog RatShack model. I'm guessing if I want to EQ my subs, I would then use something like THIS? I have recently upgraded four mac Minis and realize I can just set one of the old ones...

I keep telling you, those are Intel models, not M1.

Now I can't stop asking myself "How fat is my bass"? Damn you Dave Upton!

I’ll just be waiting for an M1 MacBook Air refurb.

I fully agree. This has also been a learning experience for me through the years. The biggest benefit I found with my speakers was when it was suggested they be moved away from the front wall. So, now their backs are 4' from the wall, and further from the side walls, and there are no windows...