I also finished the multiple coats of poly, sand, poly, sand, etc.
I used 1/4" clear ply - turned the grain at the joint. Was going to go with a 'stair-step' pattern instead of the 45* but it didn't work out.
The sub box itself is a matte polyurethane, the wood trim is a high-gloss - the...
Well, got the entire thing hooked up, running and (sorta) balanced. VERY pleased. My room is on the small side, and this MJ18 overpowers the room at (near) reference levels. Very pleased!
I've got a handful of pics:
1. Replacing the stock fan in the iNuke
2. Running the Pioneer balancing...
After the dark gray 'base coats' had dried, I applied two coats of Rustoleum matte-black spray paint. The two LIGHT coats are vital to achieve no runs / orange peel texture, etc. No sanding should be done between coats.
Meanwhile, after the initial coat of stain dried, I glued the pieces...
After I got the box all primed and sanded, I put two nice 'base coats' (a very dark gray) with light sanding between each base coat.
While getting the gray base coats prepared, I created a could pieces of 'decorative' wood trim pieces. Going for a simple geometric design - something to make it...
Yeah, even if I had the money, not sure I would build a second home :blink: - most of these are for a family of (2) anyway!
In regards to the stain, I don't think you're off base. I did a bit of research last night about staining MDF, and there seems to be two ways folks do it.
1. Use Gel...
Yeah - it's sorta 'industrial' - but without any exposed fasteners / heavy gauge metal. Trying to make it rather modern-ish / clean (but also 'mountain) - Below are two examples of homes I've work on - kind of explains my goal.
I've never stained MDF... I'll look into it!
Sure enough - I suppose I never mentioned that!
3/4" MDF for the walls / bracing / vents. The a triple-thickness baffle (the sub won't be recess mounted, but surface mounted)
That new router bit I got cuts very nicely, could help! And the random orbital was primarily for the wood putty @ the...
Pic 1
As with any good project, it starts with a plan (cut list / layout) and Cheez-It's! (too early for a beer - that was later)
Pic 2
Engine cart serves well as a tool-cart - first box I've ever built with a nail gun, it went SO FAST!
Pic 3
It starts!
Pic 4
Three walls and vent installed...
Well, I ended up getting doing some work on the box this weekend (along with getting a Christmas tree and roughly 12" of snow)
Final Box Specs:
Size
33"x24"x24"
= 9.229 CuFt (263.0 L) - 0.5CuFt (bracing/driver) = 8.79 CuFt (248.9 L) net volume
Tune
18.5Hz
Vent
2.5"T (7.62cm) x 22.5"W...
^ That was a great recommendation. I'm going to go with the 'Johnny Cube' - and that size/tune ends up being nearly the exact same thing I came up with.
It's good to know that the direction I was heading makes sense! Thanks for your input Robert
SO - changes! (Haha, are we surprised?)
I made a card board template of the 550L box - wife said NO!
So - we're going to go down the 250L (8.8 cu ft) road.
Here are the most recent graphs. I think I'm going to go with 250L, 20hz tuning (Green) instead of the others.
Green = 20hz
Red = 18hz...
Just got finished doing a bunch of modeling in WinISD for the first time.
250L (8.8 cu ft) is the 'recommended' size (250L) - shown in 'red' on the graphs.
566L (20 cu ft) box - shown in 'blue' - is the size I think I'm going to build
Modeled with:
-600rms to the sub (despite the iNuke...
Hey guys, any suggestions/thoughts on the sub enclosure design, tuning, etc would be great!
If I wasn't detailed with the goals/equipment/desired use, just let me know! Hoping to start cutting some wood tonight!
Hey there - new to the forum but I've lurked for over a decade.
Background:
I bought a Mach 5 Audio MJ-18 almost ten years ago for an IB install in my wagon (seen at the bottom of this post)
Now, I'm moving the MJ-18 into the house - my reliable Polk Audio PSW505 had it's amp crash. I have a...