Look at the prices and it should be very obvious where they're manufactured. Digging deeper, I was able to verify my conclusion by finding a hometheaterhifi.com review. "Like many products these days, they are outsourced to China, and those guys know how to make a beautiful finish on a...
As others have said, the macro abilities of the remote are a bit more advanced, but then again, the macro abilities of other remote brands have become advanced also. My interest in the Harmony lies in its simplicity to operate large volumes of equipment that I don't feel older universals...
The Harmony 659 is available as a refurb on Amazon for $44. I can't imagine finding a better remote for the money. I've got a 670 and I'm very pleased with it. The 659 is essentially the same thing with a slightly different button configuration.
Provided the sub is capable of playing deeply enough. Tuning your typical 10" sub to 12hz is almost always a waste, and results in a low freqency rolloff that's not much different than an underdamped sealed box. Your tuning frequency should ALWAYS depend on the specific sub, and not some...
I had the firmware update done to my Pioneer DV-563 dvd audio/sacd player over the weekend, and much to my surprise, my Steeley Dan and David Sanborn DVDAs still have no audio. When the repair center gave me the unit back, they said that everything checked out ok, so I'm guessing that the new...
Yes, it's connected to my receiver, and yes, I'm using the 5.1 analog outputs. Thanks for the firmware link. It looks like I've got some reading to do. Maybe the firmware upgrade will help it sync better with my NAD receiver too. Half the time I have to turn off the digital output, then...
Has anybody run into a situation where a particular DVDA does not play properly? I just bought a Steeley Dan DVDA and tried to play it. The menus and all associated screen data seems to be fine, and when I play a song, I can see the timer going on the DVD player, but I get no sound at all. I...
I would guess the 30hz bump is due to room size. At low frequencies, the size of your room plays a HUGE roll in the sound output of your sub. Moving the sub to another location may yield a reduction in the 30hz bump.
When I was a kid, my cousin had a fantastic pair of 3 way Advents with a 10" woofer, dome mid, and dome tweeter. I fell in love with their sound. Recently I had a chance to look at them. They're the Maestro, which is a model or 2 above the Legacy line. The foam surrounds are shot and I'm...
Try to find a sub that will work in that enclosure volume first. If necessary, you can modify the port length to re-tune the enlcosure to better suit the new driver. For giggles I tried a Dayton 15" Quatro sub in a 4.5 cubic foot ported enclosure. When tuned to 20hz, it provides a -3dB point...
Anything from Adire will probably give you excellent results, provided something they offer will work in the enclosure that you've got. I'd also look at the Dayton stuff from Parts Express. PE offers a few different lines, and one of them may be a good match for your enclosure.
Oh god, not a Volfenhag. :frowning: I wouldn't trust their t/s parameters one bit. I also wouldn't put anywhere near 500 watts into it. Volfenhag is ultra-cheap chinese made crap. It's made by American Hifi, the same company that brings you quality products like Kenford and Rockwood.
I wouldn't set the sub level to "max", just the crossover frequency knob. Leave your receiver's sub out level at it's preset level (most likely "0") and tune the sub level knob on the sub to get it close. Then you can use the receiver's level adjustment to "tweak" it just like you would the...
If you're going to build the ported box based on that driver's t/s specs, you'll have any number of choices. Getting a sub to work with a pre-built ported box is a crap shoot at best.
the phase switch allows you to change the relative polarity of the speaker to help better integrate it with your other speakers. have somebody switch it back and forth while you're listening and choose the setting that provides the most bass at your listening position. This will ensure that the...
Typically, car subs have a higher resonant frequency, and tend to have a -3dB point at a higher frequency than most home people are used to. This is intentional, because in a car the cabin gain will allow a sealed sub with a -3dB point of 60hz to play flat right down to 30 or lower. If you put...
more woofers don't lower the frequency response. If each woofer has a -3dB point of 45hz, then the pair has a -3dB point of 45hz. You can't get more bandwidth by adding more of the same thing.
Of course it sounded different! With one speaker disconnected, the impedance presented to the crossover changes (it doubles), which will completely goof up the crossover. All this proves is that an incorrect crossover sounds worse than a correct one, which I don't think was ever in question...
I think both will put out an extreme amount of bass. The Klipsch have a very high efficiency and power handling, as do the Cerwin Vegas. Without somebody that's measured the maximum SPL of both, all you're going to get is wild speculaction anyway. Call it a draw and go have a beer.
if the SVS had too much bass, you had it turned up too high. Plain and simple. Moving on to the sony sub... I have a friend with that sub, and he performed the polyfill mod. I never heard it before the mod, but I have heard it after he did it, and I think that for the money the sub sounds...
I won't disagree that typically a speaker like the R50 may sound better than the R30, but I will disagree with *why* it sounds better. For one, the drivers in the R50 aren't the same as what's in the R30, assuming that it is truely a 2.5 way and not a 3 way. If it's a 2.5 way, it would have...
It all depends on the design. In many cases it's marketing. In other cases, it's a legitimate design consideration. In all cases, it's a comprimise, and somewhere a designer or design team chose a particular design based on their goals and which comprimises were most important to them. A...
I've never held much faith in CR. If I need a toaster I may consult them, but anything more complicated and I'll do my own research. I'm a big car guy, as well as an audio guy, and I've found their suggestions in both regions to be completely ridiculous. The problem is that they will rate...
there's not anything that I'd specifically "never" buy just because of its brand name. If it sounds good, I'll give it consideration. Of course, that qualification automatically eliminates some brands by default.
I'm designing a home theater system for my cousin on a tight budget. I'm probably going to assemble most of the speakers from kits. I've got the 10" titanic as a possibility, but as a much less expensive option I've got a 10" cerwin vega sub that costs around $175. I've always been a big fan of...
I'm going to try to answer your question with a bit of a different approach. Forget about the power, and just take a look at what's happening. By filtering the bass out of your main speakers, they will be able to play much louder than they would otherwise. Likewise, with the amp free of the...