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(This isn't a senseless bump, but thread efficiency!) I have a very similar issue. The Comp3 (DTV) input is reserved for my HD cable (at 1080i). I want to just get 480p output from my xbox 360 in the COMP1 input, but I can't. When I switch to that input (with xbox connected/on), the green TV...

Avia also has overscan patterns, which are handy if you know how to access your tv's service menus. Also, the audio parts include sweep tone with frequency readout, which really helps improve the sub setup (placement, crossover, phase...)

Of course, it depends on how much you want to adjust. I have both VE (a coupla years) and Avia (coupla moonths) and Avia wins hands-down over VE. Much easier to navigate, better 'flashing' test patterns (easier to adjust than static ones), *much* better audio tests incl. tone sweeps with...

I meant other brands will probably be better than Sony in any given price range. Although some folks here really like the 4ES, which is the only Sony receiver I can recall seeing praised anywhere by audiophiles.

I'd put the Denon and Onkyo up top, along with perhaps H-K. Personally, I think you can get a better bang for your buck with non-Sony brands in most price ranges. Do as earch on this forum for more options and opinions!

The NCT NoiseBusters are actually very good and worth a try. http://www.nct-active.com/nbex.htm

I'd go withthe 3803. Then, decide later if you want an outboard. AN H/K receiver should be just as reliable; never heard of *any* real problems with them. BTW, "a lot" is two *s-e-p-A-r-a-t-e* words!!

Yes. Pretty mcuh any other receiver in that price range! Seriously, you may not want or need 7 channels for a while, if ever. Better to get a good 5 or 6 channel receiver, of which there are several in that price range. Just FYI, the Sony amps (non-ES) are quite anemic. You will get a much...

umm, did we suddenly change topic here????

chu gai, thanks for the legal links. I'm in law scholl and am taking a trademarks course right now. Good stuff! Seems Monster wants to *own* the word 'Monster' and Disney called them on it because their TM registration scope exceeded what they were actually using it for. Not too hard to reason...

Hold the phone! First, avoid the SOny's like the plague. Second, go right over to J&R (jandr.com) and pick up the Yamaha HTR-5540 (or the AVR-430, same receiver) for $199. Great, powerful, clean receiver with actually listenable DSP modes. Brand new, excellent quality, and you'll want to keep it...

I don't think Monster has to necessarily decrease quality to become another Bose. Granted, cables etc. do have pretty big markups in general. But many brands (AR, e.g.) have at least *reasonable* prices and very good quality. (Good enough such that additional improvements would be all but...

BTW, just to clarify, the B ose "bass module" is just that. It is NOT a subwoofer! ANd the problem with that distinction is, with such a high crossover the BM is playing very directional bass signals froma single, localizable source. Real sub/sats put only the lower, nondirectional bass signals...

I'd hold off on DLPs. The technology is still evolving and improving. As for plasmas, I have yet to see one that I like. Or that has good blacks (which I really notice the lack of!) OTOH, I have *not* yet seen one of the newer Panasonics, but I will keep my eyes open for them. Of course, I don't...

If you can find just the connectors, I'd go withthem and some 12 or 14 gauge wire. That might make an audible difference. (How thin are the stock wires? In other systems they are 18 gauge or so, but I'm not familiar with the SOny.) You can get the actual wire for about 25-30 cents per foot; I'm...

I picked up some 10 gauge stranded wire, clear jackets, looks fine (if looks matter!) at cablesamerica.com. I think it was about $25 for 50 feet. It will not limit your system in any way, IMO. And once I swept up a bit behind the component rack after hooking things up, there also was no trace of...

OK, so I'm not totally nuts! ;) Does putting the center below the screen really help? I had considered that, placing it on my sub right in front. (That space is pretty much unused anyway.) However, the L & R can't be located any lower, so there would be a big height difference. durnit!

I still have equal-height on-axis fronts. My center has a rear adjustable leg that I used to aim down slightly, so the main tweeter axis is at listerner's ear height. And slightly higher feet on the rear of my L/R speakers give them the same tilt. SO all 3 are at the same height, and all 3 are...

Chris, it is *not* just the quality of the speakers. 2 speakers will produce interference, in certain frequency ranges, that adding a center will not. Regardless of how accurate or 'good' the speakers are. As for speaker heights, why is it 'impossible' to have 3 fronts at the same height? I...

Lots of talk about 'logic' and 'theory', but it really *is* easy to test/compare a center to no center speaker on most receivers just by switching 'phantom center' mode on and off. No real need to speculate when a simple test will give hard data. I've done so, both earlier (when I had 3...

Another vote for the MX-500. Great layout of hard buttons (which I prefer) plus a nice integration of the upper 10 customizable buttons (which you can label individually on the lcd). Plus a greally strong signal. ANd it's only about $110. Full learning capability plus it can handle tons of macros.

Mitsubishi, Mitsubishi, Mitsubishi. $^) Should be in the same price range, and with a bit of tweaking (as descibed/discussed at hometheaterspot.com) you can get a picture that will match/surpass anything close to its price, IMO. With easy access to the service menu, it's simple to adjust the...

If you want a nice, bright tv that you can just turn on in any light and it'll look good, go for an rptv. It will take about 2' from the viewing length (vs. nothing for a projector screen!). Yours is about the same size as my old LR, and a 55-65 incher should work well, esp. if you can use the...

SuperZero XU's come in white, complete with mounting bracket. Excellent, clear speakers (if you have a high-current amp to drive them; they're not the most efficient but will play loud & clear with a good amp!)

Pretty much any OFA will do; neweer models may have more codes. For starters, rtfm. You don't even have to 'program' the OFA, most likely. If it's like the older models, you can switch to the device of interest, hit the star/special button, then just enter the 3-digit code. When the 3rd digit is...

Pretty much any OFA will do; neweer models may have more codes. For starters, rtfm. You don't even have to 'program' the OFA, most likely. If it's like the older models, you can switch to the device of interest, hit the star/special button, then just enter the 3-digit code. When the 3rd digit is...

3 thumbs up for the MX-500! You can probably find a cheaper one-for-all remote and just get by on the known discrete codes. A 3 or 4 device remote is plenty. One neat tip I found at remotecentral.com is the 'trick' for getting Mitsubishi rptv discretes (power & inputs) from the original remote.

I picked up an MX500 last week and am thrilled. First time where I could actually put away the original remotes for good, instead of keeping them nearby for 'extra' rarely-used functions. With lots of buttons plus 2 pages of 10 *labeled* buttons per device, it really handles everything from the...

If present, running the single coax connector for digital audio from dvd to receiver will ut do connect the video directly to the tv. No need to go thru the receiver and buy extra cables! Also, if you want, pick up a programmable macro-capable remote so you can do all audio and video switching...

If I understand this, even roughly, these charts are indeed in terms of db loss per 100ft. SO, for a typical 6-10 ft. cable, plus your 2-4x factor, aren't these cables overkill? Wouldn't lesser cables (even Monster 3's that have nominally acceptable characteristics at a minimum) bbe perfectly...