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I was a Dunlavy dealer for 5 years. Those are NOT SC-II's. They are either SC-I's, SC-IAV's or SM-1's. SC-II's are about 5 feet tall. Great speaker non the less....

I'd love to see how dual SVS B4+s stack up against the ContraBass!!

Another question. I have an audio buddy who is not particularly technically saavy and would be interested in the Auto EQ function of the Berhinger. Does the auto correct function of the Berhinger 24/96 create a correction using the parametric EQ function or the graphic EQ function (or both?)

Does the auto correct function of the Berhinger 24/96 create a correction using the parametric EQ function or the graphic EQ function (or both?)

Frank: You are correct. In fact, the dual PB2's sounded better than all four together. Correctly set up in the correct location (in my case on the side walls near the center of the wall) and either EQ'd or, in my case, using digital room correction, the dual B4's are the best reproduced movie...

I am a multiple sub person (dual B4's) and for a while tried dual PB2's in addition. I have said this before but will restate that it is all about moving air. The more drivers involved means each moves a shorter distance means cleaner bass and LOTS more impact when the source requires it...

If you like the way it sounds, why would you want anyone elses opinion?

I'd also vote for the 2 B4's only for simplicity sake (and if you can, place them symmetrically so they do not create cancellation. Harmon Kardon web site not withstanding, getting 4 subs to integrate is NOT easy. At least that was my experience as I had 2 B4's and 2 PB2+'s and the 2 B4's...

Do you mean any thoughts beside trading in your wife for the more sympathetic variety??

Do you mean any thoughts beside trading in your wife for the more sympathetic variety??

Frank: I have two B4's and for a while also had dual PB2+s (a total of 12 12inch drivers). And I used digital room correction to insure that they were all flat and phase correct. It wasn't boomy (due to room correction), and the amplitude was correct but (a) actually caused the walls and...

Frank: I have two B4's and for a while also had dual PB2+s (a total of 12 12inch drivers). And I used digital room correction to insure that they were all flat and phase correct. It wasn't boomy (due to room correction), and the amplitude was correct but (a) actually caused the walls and...

frank manrique: You have EIGHT SVS 16-46's??????? You are as nuts as I am (I have dual B4's). Did I see that you are contemplating adding 2 B4's as well? Actually, you (or at least some "you's") can have too much bass. I used to have the Dual B4's and two PB2's. The basement walls moved...

frank manrique: You have EIGHT SVS 16-46's??????? You are as nuts as I am (I have dual B4's). Did I see that you are contemplating adding 2 B4's as well? Actually, you (or at least some "you's") can have too much bass. I used to have the Dual B4's and two PB2's. The basement walls moved...

Be careful about placement of 4 subs. SVS subs are great but it is VERY easy to end up with cancellation if these subs are just put in the room. I used to have 2 B4's and 2 PB2+'s. the 2 B4's by themselves sound MUCH better due to cancellation with all four running at the same time. My 2 B4's...

Polarity is phase but at 0 or 180 degrees.

From the time I order mine (10 pair), they showed up in less than a week...and the constuction quality was beyond my expectations. Short of building your own, these guys have it.

Edward JM: I am facinated that you use the phase control to flatten out the response. javascript:smilie(':confused:') I used the phase control so that at the x-0ver point between my mains and subs (80Hz), I had the maximum output. I got flat response by using digital room correction...

ross ish...you are my kind of guy......9.7 billion square feet of sub radiating area

terence: The quote should be "If one is good, then two must be better!(and four would be really cool) !!!"

Dual SVS B4+'s...and if my walls were sturdier, I'd get two more !!! And DON'T tell me I have a problem...I know that already !!

Cables, cables, cables... Check out the article on the bluejeans cable site. A rational, engineering explanation for why cables can be different (not that you can actually hear the difference) http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...wirematter.htm

"If you want shaking bass when you have a concrete slab, then you will need either a tactile transducer like the Buttkickers or the Clark Synthesis....." That may be true in some cases. Our theater is in the basement on concrete and I have MORE than enough shakin .... but I am using dual SVS...

A house curve is just that--taking your flat response and turning into something else. If you read the documents that explain it, it suggest that from 30Hz to about 100Hz, the curve slope down about 5 to 10 db's. I assume that the reason for doing so is to take into a account the Fletcher-Musnon...

I was experimenting with using what would be equivalent to a BFD house curve last night. But when performing the channel calibration, because the response is so different than NOT using a house curve, I was wondering if I need to set the gain of the subs slightly higher than normal. What I mean...

The dip at 111HZ and the bump you put into your BFD to offset it (15db), may look OK on paper, but I would do some serious listening to vocals before I ever settled with that. Narrow band peaks in EQ of that amplitude (15db) can be VERY audible if you move your head even slightly. At that...

The "fixed" curve is obviously a lot better (that is one nasty bump at 36HZ---what are the dimensions of your room). However, you still have a fairly substantive bump (8 to 10db) from 45HZ to 70 HZ. Do you have any sense of boominess at all???

Wayne: A couple of questions and one comment: (1) Do you recommend setting the "house curve" into the BFD prior to making the adjustments or afterwards? (2) Is your house curve flat to 30Hz (from 20Hz) and then drops to 100Hz (down 3 or 4 db)? I can assure you that adding boost, if...

The corner is almost always the worst place to put a sub for even frequency response, but the best place to increase output. I have measured hundreds of rooms, and with one exception, the corner is not the right place(but cosmetically it works quite well !!) If you have the ability to do so...

My bad: I said that wrong. You have to add 2db to 3db to the RS meter reading to have it be correct, so you would set the subs 2 to 3 db (according to the RS) BELOW the mains. Sorry.