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I was thinking of going with 300 and 3000 or 4000Hz for the x-over points, after much concideration, we may actually be going with the same setup I built a year or so ago (2 Hi-Vi M8a's and an XT25 in an MTM). I have my homemade circle jigs already setup for them and a crossover designed, so it...

Haha, you remember those renderings from way back? That's great. People liked them before, so I probably will put up some renders of the concept enclosure. Ok, I will mess with x-over pro and try to come up with something. We are determined to build soemthing of monolithic proportions (WWMTM...

Anyone with lspCAD willing to whip up a x-over for me? Thanks!

I'm currently helping a friend put together a set of full range towers for his home. He well be using them for 75% music (techno, punk, metal, ambient, rock) and the rest for movies. I was hoping for some feedback on this driver selection, and, if it seems they will work well with one...

Yeah I was looking for car audio as well, I just figured I would try this forum anyway. Thanks.

if you goto www.fiberlay.com and look under epoxy resin systems on the left, then to decorative, you'll see it, its called "system three mirrorcoat." As far as making it look liek cheap plastic, I don't think it would, the stuff is clear as glass, and the wood still looks pretty nice under it. I...

Would anyone here have any links to some good diy fiberglassing links? Preferably related to audio, but anything works for me. I came across this stuff the other day. Its an epoxy that goes on surfaces and dries glossy and smooth. Its the same stuff they coat bartops with. Has anyone here...

The least you can do really is make a box, use that sub, just get a sub amp. The 100 watt one from parts express would work ok depending on the driver.

I don't think it would hurt anything, but I'm no expert. Maybe you can go with multiple smaller ports. Is the option of constructing your own port out of the question?

So Chris...Did you finish your x-over? How does it sound? Did you end up bypassing the little caps anyway? Did it make a diff?

Well 3.3 and 4.7uF are pretty small, so If yo don't have the ordered, don't bother. You only really need to do it when you are dealing with larger values. My crossovers used 21 and 51 uF, so it made a slight noticeable difference. I used the Solens. But I only used the Daytons to bypass. I don't...

Those look pretty nice...what are they?

You could tuneit lower to reduce the excursion at the frequencies that seem to be bottoming it. You would just have to increase the port lengths if at all possible.

Yeah it wouldn't hurt to try it, but I don't think it would sound any different than the standard sono material. I still think it wouldn't be worth the hassle of ordering it and having to cut it right, cover it and build it. If your using a Tempest, then you will need no less than 18" of...

One thing you should think about it how the pressure in a sonosub is presented to the tube. It is much like magnetic flux along a linear axis. It pushes out in all directions perpendicular to the tube's surface and the force is evenly spread throughout the entire surface. So the tube will not...

I would try to figure out the schematic of the x-overs before replacing parts. Some parts will not be worth it. Such as just about anything wired in parallel with the drivers. Who knows what they might have used, those companies have a way of coming up with really weird designs for the sole...

If your router has a base plate that comes off, juts trace it on some 1/4" MDF and cut it out with some of it overhanging the base. The just push a 3/4" straight bit through the wood while its attached and there you go, a jig that can cut down to or mortise about a 2" hole.

I use bypass caps in all my x-overs. I've done side to side comparisons between bypassed and non bypassed caps. The difference that I noticed was the a large cap will limit some of the tweeters information retrieval. Some of the subtle nuances are lost and the the sound doesn't seem to come...

If you have a router, you can make a circle jig to cut the holes just the right diameter so you have to hammer the port it place. It should hold without glue, then if you need to mess with it, it should come out with a little tugging on it. I do that with all my ports.

Last week I finished my Dayton DVC 15" sonosub. I wasn't quite sure what to expect from it since I never heard one. From what I understand its similar to the tempest. It's in a 20" X 47" (internal) tube tuned to 17Hz or something like that. The endcaps are tripled up MDF and it sits about 5...

I like the way you used the Max lighting. If you really wanted to make it look real you should look into the HDRI renderings, you can see some at www.splutterfish.com Now if you can only get the wood to look like the raytrace. If you have anymore images you want posted. just let me know, I can...

I'm designing some surrounds for my Dolby 5.1 setup, I was wondering which frequencies are sent to those speakers and the center channel. Or are they all full range?

I have two PE 250W plates amps, and will be buying either two BPD 1201's or 1001's. I want to make sonosubs with them. Im at a loss with my design though. I want a really low extension but I also want a good transient response. I was thinking about doing one EBS with a 1201 and a sealed one for...

Ahh ok thanks, I know it may sound like a dumb question since i've been building subs for 4 or 5 years. :rolleyes

I want my subs! I hope he's just re-doing the site.

I know that, but when people say I've tuned my box to 17Hz, which one are they referring to. Nobody ever seems to specify which one they are talking about.

Maybe line the room with MDF and eggcrate. Thats all I could think of and that would be pretty damn expensive too. They sell expanding spray foam you could put between the studs, might help.

Yeah thats all I need to know, I get confused when I hear "tuned."

Another tweeter I would look at (assuming it hasn't been mention already) is the Vifa XT25 (the weird looking one). I bought a couple of these and was very impressed. I've heard the Focals and would have to say the two sound very similar, the XT25 is easier to flush mount and is cheaper. I'm...

If your going to do a stroker you will want to horn load it in an open area. Cerwin Vega used to sell a horn loaded stroker for outdoor PA type systems. The bottom line is that the stroker was designed for high SPL only. I met a guy who showed me his car system, it all sucked except for the 2...