Check out the manual. If they aren't labeled left and right, they may tell you to manually swap the polarity of the wire you have going into one of them. Typically with dipole speakers, you want the forward-firing drivers to be in phase with the front speakers.
If space and absolute volume is not a concern, you might also consider a pair of $700-$1000 subs for smoother response across more listening positions. That opens up a lot more choices.
The frequency response is likely to be different, the largest difference being low end extension. But, since you already have the spare amp, might as well get your sub working again. Also, you may need something to attenuate the sub-out signal if your Carver amp doesn't have a trim control on...
The only consideration I can think of is if you can't give a sub's ports enough clearance from the wall. e.g. if you have a sub with rear firing ports and you have to put it 2 inches from the wall, you may want to consider a front or downfiring sub.
Also just to note, the dual driver models are 16/20/25 Hz selectable, whereas the single driver models are 12/16/20 Hz selectable. I've read that if you go down to only 1 port open, it's underported. So I think 16Hz is the optimum only if you have a single driver SVS. Corrections or additions...
The existence of good (great) products without THX certification is not "proof" that certification is overrated or that it doesn't mean much. What is your reasoning behind why you feel THX certification doesn't mean much? Certainly M&K (and others) must feel it means something, otherwise, why...
Really? I guess M&K, Atlantic Tech, and the Klipsch Ultra2 sets are all overrated, huh? You might tell all the post production studios how overrated it is that their M&K monitors are THX certified, and how it doesn't mean much. Look, I would never say you should get a speaker just because...
There is a difference between THX Ultra (the original spec, when there was only one), THX Select (what the Crystal speakers are), and THX Ultra2 (the updated original spec). One of the main differences between Select and Ultra(2) is a reduced requirement for controlled vertical dispersion...
Umm, no. Higher impedance numbers mean more resistance. Resistance isn't what makes an amplifier work harder. It's low levels of resistance, like a speaker that dips to 1 or 2 Ohms, because that means more current will be flowing. Perhaps you're thinking of wire guages, where a smaller number...
If you're on a tight budget, but think you might be able to spend more down the road, you should consider starting with a decent pair of speakers and a sub.
There are plenty of people who get great results from a losslessly encoded CD collection streamed to a squeezebox or the like (google that). I wouldn't worry too much about the difference b/w lossless music over a squeezebox vs. CD transport w/ outboard DAC. Your efforts (and dollars) will be...
Get the one that will most likely make you want to upgrade later! You know you'll want to, so you might as well make that decision easy for yourself when the time comes!! e.g. Let's say you buy a single Ultra. Then in a few months when the new Ultra comes out, you'll want that. But it will be...
" front center, rear center, and rear surrounds running hot 2.5 to 4.5dbs Subs running 3db hot Neeedle bouncing past the 85 db mark (test tones) at 00 and I play most dvd's at -30 or -28.5 svs to half on dial back of sub velo at near max both at 120hz " You need to explain some of...
Did you experiment w/ placement? You may be fighting bass suckouts at your current location. Being in Canada, you might think about the Axiom EPS-500, or to really go nuts, the EPS-600.
With a sealed room you'll have a lot easier time reaching reference levels. How high can you go now w/ your SVS/Velo combo? Also, that Velo will run out of steam a lot sooner than the SVS, so you may be short-changing yourself by combining them.
I heard on AVS that the DD-18 pretty much matches the 1812 in output, so there's no reason to get the 1812 besides bragging rights. A pair (or 4) of DD-18's would be pretty sweet. With 4 you could really experiment with placement to get the flattest possible response throughout the whole...
If you're not going to purchase for a little while, you should also check into the upcoming BMF from av123 and the "submersive-1" from Seaton Sound (Mark was the first poster on this thread). A pair of either of those would be fantastic for your space.
Denon, HK, Yamaha, those are all fine brands for receivers, and a step up from your old Sony (model dependent of course). Of those three I like Denon. You might also give Onkyo a look, they have very solid receivers in the $300-$500 range.
"There is simply no way even the best stereo mix can give you the immersed feeling that a good MC mix can." But that's not the goal per se of a stereo mix. And an immersive experience is not the goal for every music listener. Plus, there's some debate b/w mixers as far as mixing styles...
What sub and receiver are you matching this up with? How loud you listen to movies, how large your listening area is, and how much bass/LFE you like are all going to be factors in your decision.
You need to define "very loud", but yeah I agree with Arthur that the MMG will not give you enough volume, even if you had tons of juice to feed them. I had the MMGs for a time and I did notice that absolute volume was one of their weaknesses. Given the price and what they did well, it was...
There's a forum over at TC Sounds, and from what I could tell, there are a few guys over there willing to help people out with their DIY projects. Check it out!
If you co-locate your subs, you want them to be IN phase. Out of phase would cancel out almost all the bass! Send an email to SVS about the driver differences.