yea, that's what i'm doing. I suppose what you offered is a fix, or at least a workaround. Just suprised that the otherwise very well thought out reciever does this. Thanks for the response.
yeah, that's pretty much what i'm saying. when i switch from my computer's optical output (opt 1) over to say, the cd player, which is on the regular CD in - i have to adjust the surround mode back to "natural". This happens both when i go from one to the other and when i go back. a minor...
Whenever i change my digital input or source, the surround mode changes. So I have to cycle through back to "natural" (which i enjoy the most) everytime I change my source. This seems outrageous to me, does every 1050 owner have to deal with this?
For 90% audio usage - around a $250 price point.
These seem to be a good choice.
Another I was looking at was the Tannoy Reveal Monitors for around $350.
Any enlightenment or alternate suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Best place to find one?
I just picked up a wave generator for $20.... hehe...
I'm just a decent mic away (and the use of the semi-anechoic chamber at work) from having a competant testing setup.
Julian, Ryan is right....
As for the original poster.... why don't you just run the sub off of one of the channels in the reciever?
If your sub is ported, just run the left and right off one of the reciver's channels and plug straight in... that would tell you straight off whether there's a...
Thx, guys.
I thought that might be what I had to do... took 3 of the four base screws off... the last one was stripped (my dad's construction router)...
His workshop is 3 hours from me (...) so I can't go back and try it immediately... but at least I know what to do for next time and I can get...
Thx!!
Any word on whether you can get in another form (not spray)?
I was hoping to use paint gun... better finish and faster... on a good size set of mains, spray would be torture - and nearly impossible to get a real good finish.
Need to finish my mains on the cheap... veneer is not really an option... as I need to do it fast as well.
Is there any paint that will give that ash black look...
Could I be pointed in the right direction?
Hey Robin.... when you get your parts and such shipped to you... could you let me know how much extra you had to pay to get the stuff across the border?
Seems we're fairly close together... and I have a sealed shiva design in the back of my head I'm hoping to get to soon.
Thanks.
Actually, the K7V can be modified to accept a higher clocked Thunderbird (it will run lower speed TBirds, up to around 800-850 I believe, the way it is).
Not that I have a Tbird anyway...
I've got:
Athlon Classic 700@850... need to drop the cache divider to get more.
Asus K7V
TNT2Ultra...
Just make sure your final box shape is not (or does not too closely resemble a cube).... that is the worst possible shape for a box in terms of acoustical performance.
I have seen many nice systems that have been underutilized or downright degraded by placement.
I am actually at the point where I make no comment anymore (only advice to good friends who want to learn).
Fact is... if they think it's good, and they like the way their room looks, they're doing...
Need to pick up a bunch of components...
How much of a premium can I expect to pay to have it shipped directly to me?
Just want to get an idea, I'm on an incredibly tight budget (university) but there's a couple of projects I need to finish.
Thanks.
I don't have this amp, but the phase switch is for reversing the phase fo the driver. This may help or hurt in-room response.
Just try it both ways and whatever sounds better.... leave it like that.
Hey Greg,
All this talk about plywood stiffness and such is nice and all, but there's a acoustical reason why MDF is the better material to use.
Resonance and reflection. MDF is one of the best materials out there (never mind the cost) in terms of absorbing reflection. This makes it THE...
Sweet, thanks for clearing that up.
Of course, software is required (and a station that can burn in the chips) if you want to use PLDs... but if you just wire into gates in predetermined ICs... you won't require software (probably a few more chips though).
I thought he was refering to software...
An active crossover IS a digital crossover.... and there is NO software required. It's just logic burned into the processing chip(s).
Does that clarify anything?
no software required for active crossovers....
just a matter of logic gates. They are probably easier (in theory) then passive crossovers... because they don't need tweaking (or not NEARLY as much).... they should perform very close to the design.
Passive crossovers are just easier for people...