If you're going to use WinISD use the alpha Pro version. The other version is not accurate. That said I use Unibox, since it's sims track closely with those from LspCAD
If you have the budget for better drivers and crossover components, you'll find several on-wall/in-wall designs in this link. http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=39
The criteria for choosing the width of the baffle is contingent on what you want to baffle to do.... The wider the baffle the greater the boundry loading at lower frequencies. There's a great little Excel based freeware progam called "Baffle Diffraction Simulator" It provides a graphic...
Belkin is a well known name too, but it's primarily associated with computers. The Belkin PF60 includes a more complete cable package than that included with the monster. The PF60 also allows you to independently select which outlets are 'switched', and the amount of delay when those...
Everyone is dumping these because they were very overpriced and didn't sell. I'm not positive but I think the primary difference between the 5000 and the 5100 is simply the digital readout. And think that $259 + shipping is overpriced compared to the Belkins
Don't fixate on the difference in...
The Belkin PF60 are as good or better than the Monster 5000 and cost only a little more than the Monster 3500II. The original list price for these was $700 http://www.provantage.com/belkin-ap4...2~7BELD011.htm This is the inside of the Belkin This is the inside of the Monster 5000
Nope using a generic crossover 'forumla' isn't a good idea. Nothing is optimized for the performance of the specific speakers and baffle being used. Woofer Tester is designed to measure T/S parameters, not measure frequency response on a baffle. Doing that takes gated time domain (ETF/LMS)...
Here's how it works....... First you decide on the drivers you want to use, (a bit hard for a noobie). Then you buy the drivers and mount them on the baffle you intend to use for the speaker. (Choice of the baffle size and shape depends on the kind of loading you want the drivers to have.)...
Eclipse makes some great drivers and they can work very well for home audio. Go with a much lower port tuning, 18Hz might be good choice... And yes you'll want a bigger amp. Using a receiver it doesn't matter if the mains are ported or sealed, since you'll be crossing over much lower than...
It tries to play it. The loudness depends on room gain one gets, how big the box is, how much power is available, and how much excursion the driver has... If the box is small enough, the box itself functions as an acoustical filter, that removes the lower frequencies.
I recommend that you tune lower than 22Hz or go sealed. Why? Well there's lots of soundtrack info recorded at frequencies like 15Hz. If you try to play 15Hz from a ported sub tuned to 22Hz, you 'unload' the driver, and that = one dead driver.
With subs it's all about displacment (amount of air moved). If you want to compare drivers you calculate the Vd (swept volume of air). This is calculated by multiplying the driver's Sd, times the Xmax doubled.
Boom is a function of poor box tuning, and or a room placement issue. With subs, bigger drivers are better. The 15" Quatro and a 240-250 watt amp are the best low buck deals around. If you can go taller then 18", you might be able to go ported, if not you should go sealed.
Although not as people friendly as foam, fiberglass absorbs low frequencies better. It's all about how deep the traps are for how low the frequencies they absorb, the shape is secondary.
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Okay here's my opinion.... Regarding the RS-125S, as I said in my earlier post these are not suitable to be used in a 2-way HT system (they're probably okay as computer speakers when you're sitting 3' away). They have to high a Fs (resonant frequency) and not enough cone movement (Xmax)...