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Guess I'm late to the party but I thought I'd chime in. I just picked up a new set of Athena Point 5 Mk IIs for $175 and ordered a Hsu STF-1 to go with it. I'll post back when they've been delivered and tested.

The two green leads get twisted together and inserted into the same terminal (Ground). I didn't think they would fit but if you keep the strands tight and straight as possible, they will slip firmly into the cup.

I used rabet joints when making mine. Dadoes inside for the braces.

Here's mine. Link Removed Link Removed

To minimize the effort, start with 400 then move to 600. I would also suggest finishing at a much higher grit like 1200 or 1500 but only for the final coat. When you move to a higher grit the object is to remove all the scratch marks from the previous grit. This is how you know you're done with...

Ryan, you're going to be cutting driver holes in your baffle by making multiple light passes. So, a fixed base router will allow you to drop the bit into the work piece without disrupting the perfect circle. I've done it. It works fine. Remember, you should be cutting away about 1/8" of inch of...

Joe, did you have to break yours in or did you notice improvements right away? What kind of improvements or changes did you notice? Thanks.

I'm with you, Joe. Here's the one I made. Instructions and more pics on my site: Link Removed under the DIY section. I also have instructions for mounting an IEC connector to a component in order to make the cables interchangeable. Link Removed

I've used a Rotozip before and think they stink for MDF. I found that the circle jig had way too much play as well. You need a 1.5HP (or more) router. As far as plunge or fixed base is concerned, plunge is nice but not necessary since you never want to cut through 3/4" MDF in one pass anyway...

I have the Canare crimper and stripper and can say they are worth their weight in gold. I know some will challenge you to justify the cost but I don't think you should have to. They work great. I've used mine to make many cables.

I have directions for the one I made on Link Removed

Um, how do you "demagnetize" a laser?

I use a Radio Shack Mutlimeter and test for continuity. It beeps for confirmation. Then, I usually dump the cable into my old office system and use it as a guinea pig before it goes into the HT.

Jeff, you're making the right choice by making your own. Even if you splurge for the Canare stripper and crimper as I've done, you'll end up making cables that are easily as good or better than the Monster cables and for less money per foot.

Prove it. :)

Ok, ok. I concede that one point, Jason. I just hope you can tell that it's round, every time you look at it. :)

Holy crap. I haven't read this post in 3 days. I had no idea I'd have missed so much. 1. I got the Microsorb for www.percyaudio.com 2. I didn't mean to start a debate. I don't care if you think any changes I may hear as a result of my work, are only in my head. I really don't so keep it to...

Jim, your claims that these changes can't make a difference are no more valid than someone else saying they might. I didn't start this thread to "irk" you or anyone else. If you don't believe it can change anything, great. I frankly haven't decided yet. But I know what I hear and what I see...

Jeremy, maybe you have decided to believe that. That's fine. I'm not convinced yet. I've already heard a difference in volume level. And, it wasn't what I'd call a positive difference so how can you call it a placebo? You mean, I wanted to hear an inferior sound? For you to say it just...

Ron, I got my "Feet" from www.percyaudio.com. Jim, whatever, I know what I hear and see and I don't have to prove it to anyone. And, no, telling people about my experiences is not a disservice. Have a great weekend.

Um, you can prove that filters and cables have an effect on current. The proof the doubters require is that the effect is beneficial. That however, is subjective and is left to opinion. I don't believe, as of yet, that I have claimed any huge difference of any kind. I never pre-disposed...

Jeremy, about the ground loop issue. You're right about possibly introducing into your system. But adding a three prong plug to a two prong component could also qualify as grounding test. That is to say that if your system is properly grounded at the outlet, you could never introduce the...

Andrew, you've summed it up very well. I've never been a tweak freak but I do build my own cables. The mods I made didn't cost much money at all and at the very least, I learned something and didn't hurt performance by any means. Regarding your questions: I've never had a ground loop problem...

That's your opinion, Jeremy. I don't have to prove anything at all, let alone with "scopes" as you so put it. I've already noticed changes in the first few seconds of playing it. Were they good or bad? Well, does it matter? You won't believe I saw or heard them. With such a closed mind, why...

Hear! Hear! I third the threaded insert. In fact, you could use a drill press to put them in straight. It's a woodworking technique but I'd be happy to describe it for you if you have access to a press.

Lee, According to some, the Microsorb should reduce jitter in the transport and anamolies that are related to it. That could be anything really. The feet, I would imagine, help to the same degree. The cord and capacitor are all about getting clean, stable juice to the component. I've been...

Thanks fellas. Joe, you'd be surprised how inexpensive it is to do this. That's one of the reasons I tried it in the first place.

I just performed a number of mods to my Toshiba SD1200 dvd player that some of you may be interested in. I replaced the stock AC power cord connector with an IEC socket so I can swap out and test different power cords. I also made a DIY power cord. I applied Microsorb under the transport to...

In that case the price is not so bad.

I've completed the installation of the IEC socket into my DVD player so that I can use the DIY braided AC power cord I made. I've updated the page and have all the pics too. Link Removed