Those "color controls" you were adjusting are not for adjusting the colors in an image. They are for setting the underlying color of gray. It's a common mistake when one confuses color decoding controls (saturation and hue) with grayscale controls (red, green and blue gains and biases) See the...
That's a great experience to have! Congrats. And think of it.... future projectors will be even better in image quality. Work next on reducing the room's interference with the picture. Darkening the surfaces in the room will give you yet another quantum leap in the sense of depth and color in...
Get the room completely light controlled. Also try to reduce the backscatter of light from the walls, ceiling, and floor onto the screen. Once you do that, you'll be quite pleased with the Carada BW. If there is ambient light, the picture will wash out. WIth complete light control, the picture...
1. Brightness not contrast is used to affect the dark portions of the image. If the above is not your problem then one of two possibilities are present. A. If connected via an analog connection, the DVD player is set to enhance black or whatever equivalent the manufacturer has named that...
My guess is Macrovision on the DVD disc. Does the same thing happen when you put in a DVD that doesn't have Macrovision like Avia? If not, then it is likely Macrovision messing with your switcher's video circuits.
Periodically, I hear people struggle with setting contrast. In particular, people get hung up on looking for blooming, avoiding geometry distortion, or thinking that the AVIA disc is only for CRT displays. Here's the five minute summary of the problem of setting contrast (white level) for...
Unfortunately, merely lower picture brightness has only hidden the redness problem at the cost of also lowering some shadow detail into oblivion. You display has a grayscale calibration problem at the dark end. It isn't keeping all three color guns in proper balance such that the image remains...
It if doesn't move with the image as you adjust HPOS, then it is unfortunately a phosphor burn. A signal noise issue would typically shift left/right with the HPOS control. Do those two narrow, vertical dark bars on the left move with HPOS? Those bars look like ringing noise from the horizontal...
I don't believe it is burn-in of the phosphor. That would be visible in higher APL material and more difficult to see in low APL material - the opposite of your situation. The artifact is more likely low level noise that is now visible because the blanking level of the tubes is now takes place...
Spray the microfiber. If you spray too much on the screen, some of it will dribble down below the screen frame. Once it reaches the bottom edge of the front screen plastic, it will wick up and in between the fresnel and lenticular plastic layers. You'll end up with an ugly, half-moon...
Not exactly on target, but here is an important maintenance message for digital projector owners... http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/...iodically.html
Dirty air filters certainly won't help. The reflector has tough enough a time staying in one piece when airflow is normal. The main thing I'd like to get across is that the digital projectors are not set and forget machines. One should take some time to inspect and maintain them.
The color wheel contamination problem is not limited to the NEC HT1000. The InFocus X1 and physically identical Screenplay 4800 are also similarly afflicted.
Sorry, I don't have info about the polarizer failures. Here is an image of a partially cleaned color wheel. Image of reflector crazing (many fine cracks)
It has come to my attention that some digital projectors (this includes both DLP and LCD) are prone to developing some problem that gradually worsen and may not be noticed. The changes are slow enough that you might not notice that 30 to 40% of light output is lost despite the bulb continuing to...
Michael, what was your measurement procedure. I'm wondering if you are doing on/off or ANSI style measurements. The results are dramatically different between the techniques and they measure different performance characteristics. Neither are "the correct" one, for neither alone is enough to tell...
I first learned to see rainbows on my LT150Z, a slow 2x color wheel machine. It was so bad that I was ready to get rid of the machine. After many many hours of watching that projector, I still could see rainbows readily. The difference is that my brain no longer registers them as anything...
Look out for the offset of this projector. It is very high. Your ceiling may not be high enough for that throw distance and screen size. Check the NEC throw table.
Since you've already decided on the X1, get the projector and do as Chris suggests. Try it at various sizes and then decide on a screen size. You'll be a lot happier if you do it in that order than gamble and order the wrong size screen.
Gentle dusting with an air can (kept upright to avoid spraying of fluid!) or the safer, air bulb is the least likely to scratch. Canned air needs to be tested to know it won't sprits fluid. Practice on something other than the lens first. Tilting a can usually is disastrous. If you get liquid...
1.0 is neutreal compared to a white surface which scatter light equally in all directions (a Magnesium carbonate block). A 2.0 gain screen concentrates the light back unequally. The viewing cone light appears 2x the brightness as from a 1.0 gain screen. Look also for the words...
This thread illustrates how four different limits all need to be considered when sizing a screen and projector. 1. The amount of light output which a projector can output. Too large a screen and the picture becomes too dim. 2. The physical throw ratio of the projector. The projection...
Avoid glass beaded screens if at all possible. Those were developed for much dimmer projection systems where getting maximal gain with little regard for image fidelity was reasonable. The down side of glass beaded is that the beads are too large and themselves become visible as a irregular...
20 Feet is fairly unrealistic unless you set your image quality expectations very low. Estimate your lumens requirements as below. (If you are too lazy to understand what you are doing, skip forward three paragraphs. Unfortunately, that laziness will mean you won't be able to apply the...
There is a large range in terms of how people find pixels visible at various viewing angles. It's fairly treacherous to rely on other people for this parameter, particularly when you get closer than 2 screen widths. Closer than than (or large a screen than that) the projector, viewer tastes...
Does DVE have this many test signals and the large amount of posted usage hints of AVIA on the forums? DVE "HD" on the disc isn't on the DVD. It's a separate video tape. TitleChapterAudio Test Signal 62Channel Identification (5.1) 6565 Channel Speaker Balance 63Left-Front...
Yes. You're going to be so close to the screen that it will be very easy to see the pixel structure instead of a continuous, smooth image. I'd resize either the screen or seating distance to put you at 2 x screen width with an X1. Initially, you might be okay due to the wow factor of filling...
I stand by my warning that ambient light which visibly illuminates the screen dramatically reduces image quality. It's part and parcel. You can certainly have light on if you are willing to degrade the image. It depends on your tolerance for the washout effect. If imaging quality is really...