Michael, there is certainly a problem of a small statistical sample in the first listed link. In the second link, however, Tom Nousaine has conducted many tests with a larger numbers of selections required. In either case, a blind test is FAR more reputable than a non-blind test. People hear...
Unless you do at least a single blind test, your "tests" are worthless. Placebo effect... you think it should sound better, so it does. $1200 worth of cable vs. RadioShack interconnects and speaker wire. Author and employees could not tell the difference in *blind* testing, yet the author...
Thanks guys, I knew about port flow velocity increasing with decreased port cross-sectional area, but had never heard that the increased velocity caused decreased volume contribution from the port.
Is that really true? Since I've never heard of the term "underported", what does that mean? What I'm saying is that it seems to me that plugging a port simply raises the air velocity in the remaining port(s) so you're more likely to get port noise, but otherwise there's no difference.
Ah, O.K., that makes sense. I plan to tune to 17Hz, where output is only 1.5 dB down from where it is at 25Hz. Additionally, since the PartsExpress 250watt plate amp has a subsonic filter set to something like 18Hz, I think it will protect the sub from going below 16Hz and entering undamped...
I'm not sure what you mean by "meaningful output". According to WinISD, the output of the DPL12 will be 3dB down from the Shiva. The Shiva sub that I have (tuned to 21Hz) is never used at full output, so I thought that a DPL12 would be fine. Not so?
I understand that there will be little or no difference between 12Hz and 16Hz, but about not having an Fs that is low enough, what about the Adire Audio DPL12, since it has an Fs of 16.3 Hz? http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/...dire/dpl12.htm
Why are there trade-offs, other than the trade-offs involved with just tuning to 16Hz to begin with? i.e., lower output. IOW, is there really much difference in plugging a port on a sub tuned to 25 hz and just tuning a sub to 16 hz to begin with? Additionally, since so much new DVD content is...
Joe, yeah, you start with the TS parameters. The funny thing about the changing measurements (ft/cm/inches, etc.) is that WinISD will do the conversion for you. Open up WinISD, and put in some number in for Box volume. Now click on the ft^3 area and it will change to another measurement basis...
Joe, here's a link to a website that will calculate the sonotube cut length. It's very visual, and some people are visual learners. I think it will be clear after looking at it and plugging in the numbers from WinISD. http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html
I think the Darla scene is due mainly because it comes out of nowhere. I was one of those people who thought the Darla scene was THE bass scene in Nemo and didn't think the whale scene was a big deal. That was the first time I watched it, but after watching it a 2nd time the whale scene is much...
The center is the most important, but a sub has has the most WOW! factor. Take away the sub and it's not as thrilling of an experience. Take away the center and you'll be missing 1/2 or more of the movie.
Yes, hum *may* be an issue, typically only when they're in the dimmer mode. However I have a dimmer switch in the same room as my HT equipment (edit: purchased at HomeDepot, brand unknown) and it doesn't cause any hum. I think all you need is good quality connections and hum should not be a...
Paul, as I said earlier in this thread, I too liked one of their speaker models, although I don't remember which one it was and I didn't buy them. It's good to hear from someone who liked a pair, and it's even better to hear what it was compared against.
I'd imagine it would come in at the service panel where the neutral is bonded. Yes, but from there is what is confusing. Let's say we have the following scenario: Lighting strikes a few houses away right on the overhead power line. The surge comes down the two 120v wires coming into the...