Recent content by Drew Eckhardt

I use actively tri-amplified main speakers, with a cross-over on top of the amplifiers rather than built into a powered speaker. Since they opperate into purely resistive impedances text book cross-over designs have the intended frequency response. This doesn't change with output level as it...

Stewart and others sell motorized screens with trap doors that can be completely recessed. Talk to Jason at AV Science for a competive quote.

You'll have an output boost of up to 6dB at lower frequencies, starting in the midrange. If you must have in-wall speakers, buy or build something designed to go there which uses an MDF enclosure so it doesn't suffer from wall cavity resonances. Or build a false wall covered in grill cloth...

You'll loose a little output if it's on top of the shelves instead of in a room corner. Assuming you've already placed the main speakers on the shelves and did not buy a speaker designed for on-wall or in-wall placement, you've already compromised acoustics. In this case don't worry about it.

Buy a 2-gange decora wall plate, plus 2 inserts with 2 pairs of binding posts or banana jacks each (Parts Express, Niles, etc. all sell them). You can get 4-pair inserts, although they won't accept standard dual banana plugs (the insert is too small)

Linkwitz Orion. The open midrange is a little like a Martin-Logan, although the bass is much better integrated, the sweet spot much larger, and the high-end isn't as scattered. Nothing matches the bass quality although it's not hard to play louder in the last octave. I haven't heard a...

1.5 screen widths from a 16:9 screen (2.7 screen heights for aspect ratios

1.5 screen widths from a 16:9 screen (2.7 screen heights for aspect ratios

That's a pretty small screen. In the absence of projection artifacts, most of us like to be at about 1.5 screen widths. IOW I use a 87x49" screen (100" diagonal) with seating at 11', and would consider 96" wide or 110" diagonal would be more appropriate for 12'. You really need to live with...

The idea's to use existing screw holes of some sort. Usually the terminals are in some sort of cup. If this is on the rear of the speaker, you might make an L or C-shaped bracket.

You can attach an Omnimount to a plywood base, which in turn screws to a speaker through the holes used for its terminal cup.

Try something like this. You can get the Omni-mounts to hold over 100 pounds, the pipe-adapters allow you to place the speakers at an arbitrary height, and you don't need to drill any visible holes. The side surrounds are placed for minimal localization and interferance with the walls -...

For a CRT or digital? Putting 200+ pounds on your ceiling requires a bit more structural integrity for which unistrut, all-thread, and C-section steel work well.

DBS and VHS are unwatchable at the same width as DVDs (about 1.5 widths for DVDs at aspect ratios of 1.85:1 and under, and as close as 1.25 widths for good scope transfers0, and wide screen DVDs are too small to be immersive once you back up enough to have an acceptable image on those sources...

In the absence of projection artifacts, a 90" diagonal 16:9 screen would be ideal at 10'; 73" at 8'. The larger screen will provide a more immersive experience for your back row. Sitting more than 9' from the screen, two-piece projection systems are necessary to achieve a good immersive...